still history and its marvel chefs

Discussion in 'Food & Cooking' started by denis dubiard, Dec 1, 2011.

  1. denis dubiard

    denis dubiard

    Likes Received:
    Professional Chef
    here a chef well respected that I have study and tried to replicate some menues or recipes.

    must say its work was greatly appreciated as well as its nickmane the Mozart de la cuisine

    Mr Duglere Adolphe

    “le Mozart de la Cuisine”

    French Chef: Born: Bordeaux, 1805

    Died: Paris, 1884


    Credits: “Potage Germiny”, “Anna potato”, “Sole or Breams Duglere”, “Soufflé a l’Anglaise”

    Mr Duglere was a pupil of Mr Careme, where he was taught his trade.

    He joined the Rothschild Household before to join the “Les Freres Provencaux”

    In 1866 he took as a head chef the “Cafe des Anglais”, where he will be for always married

    Mr Duglere loved reclusion, therefore solitude & contemplative isolation.

    A very moody character, he brought the “Café des Anglais” to its pick.

    He wrote an unforgettable menu, which was served to & in honour of the Russian Emperor with his son,

    the German Emperor with Bismarck.
    “The Three Emperors”

    7 June 1867

    Menu for the Dinner

    Arranged by Mr Adolphe Duglere,

    The “Mozart of cuisine”


    Imperatrice & Fontages

    Hors d’Oeuvre

    Soufflés a la Reine


    Filets de sole a la Venitienne

    Escalopes of Turbot au gratin

    Saddle of Mutton served with Breton Puree


    Chicken a la Portugaise

    Hot Quail pate

    Lobster a la Parisienne

    Champagne Sorbets


    Duckling a la Rouannaise

    Canapés of Ortolans


    Aubergines a l’ Espagnol

    Asparagus Spears

    Cassolettes Princesse


    Bombe Glacees


    Retour de l’Inde Madeira, Sherry

    Chateau-d’Yquen, 1847,

    Chatea-Margaux, 1847,

    Chateau-Lafite, 1847,

    Chateau-Latour, 1848,

    Chambertin, 1849,

    Champagne Roederer
  2. denis dubiard

    denis dubiard

    Likes Received:
    Professional Chef
    I encountered that lady in 1997 and 2001 with her books and marvelous plates of the dishes and recipes that I have placed below some example of her writings


    Mrs Agnes B Marshall

    “ The Ice Queen”

    English House Wife Cook:

    Born: 1855
    Died: 1905

    Books: “the Book of Ices” 1885, “Mrs.A.B.Marshall’s Book of Cookery” 1888

    “Mrs.A.B.Marshall’s Larger Cookery Book of Extra Recipes” 1891, “Fancy Ices” 1894

    Credits: “Ice cream edible cone” mentioned in her 1888 Cookery book

    A Cookery “Guru” from her time, adopting new technology. Mrs Marshall’s success was mark by a cookery school

    The sale of equipments & invention of machines, she ran a domestic staff agency,

    beside producing new equipments for the Kitchen’s household.

    Mrs Marshall’s books are full of recipes marking the evolution of the food production, which are highly regarded by some.

    as her success did not been carried on by her family after her death at 49, she became forgotten in the ripples of time

    Ambassade sauce (sauce a l’Ambassade)

    “Chop up the bones from a whiting, Sole, or any other white fish, put them in a stewpan with one large or two small onions, a bunch of herbs, a few peppercorns and a little salt; cover them with cold water, bring to the boil, skim it and let it boil on for about half an hour; fry a little together two ounces of butter and an ounce and a half of flour in a stewpan, mix on to this half a pint of the fish stock; stir all together till it boils , add half a gill of cream, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy and a few drops of Marshall’s liquid Carmine, the juice of a lemon; pass it through the Tammy, and use with salmon, soles, &c. dressed or otherwise.”



    Oyster Mousseline sauce (Sauce Mousseline aux Huitres)

    “Put into a stew pan a pinch of Marshall’s Coralline pepper, four raw yolks of eggs, two tablespoonfuls of veloute sauce, four whites of eggs, two tablespoonful of warm glaze; whip over boiling water till the mixture is hot and spongy; then eighteen to twenty four sauce oysters that have been bearded and cut into little dice shapes, and use for serving with tukey, chickens veal, sweetbreads, fish, such as turbot, &c.


    Potted Cheese a la Vienne (Terrine de Fromage a la vienne)

    “Take one pound of cheese (Cheddar being preferred) and add to it in a mortar a quarter of a pound of perfectly fresh butter, e pinch of Marshall’s coralline pepper, a teaspoonful of raw mustard, a pinch of white pepper; and a little ground mace; pound these all together till quite into a paste, and mix with this a wineglass of sherry; put it into a clean dry jar; press the mixture down closely together; and well smooth the top with a knife, then pour over it a little clarified butter, and when this is set serve the cheese in the jar for a savoury; it may also be served on croutons or on toast, and in this manner makes a nice supper or luncheon dish.

    Muttons Cutlets a l’Ancienne (Cotelettes de mouton a l’Ancienne)

    “Take the best end of a small neck of mutton, cut it into neat cutlets, bat them out with a cold wet chopping knife, remove all skin and unnecessary fat, season the cutlets with pepper, salt, and a lttle curry powder, dip them into warm butter, and grill them in front of a brisk fire till brown and crisp, which will take from five to eight minutes, turning them only once during the cooking. Put into a stewpan a teaspoonful of liebig Company’s Extract of Meat, two finely chopped capsicums freed from pips, one chopped eschalot a pinch of Marshall’s Coralline pepper, a wine glassful of cooking sherry, and half a pint of good flavoured clear brown stock; boil this for ten minutes, then stir it on to one ounce of butter that has been fried without browning with a quarter ounce of arrowroot and the strained juice of a lemon; boil again, pass through the Tammy, put the cutlets into the sauce, colour with a few drops of Marshall’s Liquid Carmine to make it a rich but not too red a colour, reboil together, dish up the cutlets on a bed of Spanish onions that is arranged on a little puree of potato (which is is forced on to the dish by means of a forcing bag with a plain pipe) about half an inch thick and two inches in width, and serve very hot for an entrée for Dinner or Luncheon.”

    Spanish onions for Cutlets

    “Peel, wash, blanch, and rinse in cold water a good sized Spanish onion, put it again into a stewpan with plenty boiling water to cover, season with salt, and boil for three to four hours according to the size; when tender take up, drain on a sieve, cut into halves, and each half into four or five pieces lengthwise into small portions like an orange is divided, arrange on the prepared puree of potato, pour over a little warm butter, season with a little coralline pepper and finely chopped lean cooked ham and chopped parsley, and use as directed.”

    Mrs Agnes B Marshall

    Last edited: Dec 4, 2011
  3. denis dubiard

    denis dubiard

    Likes Received:
    Professional Chef
    After Victorian it is essential to plunge in Regency era the master of sauces as well pastries and master of Art


    [​IMG]Mr Carême Marie-Antoine (also know as Antonin)

    < French Cook and Pastry-cook:

    Born: Paris, 1783

    Died: Paris 1833

    Books: “le Patissier Pitoresque”, 1815, “Le Maitre d’Hotel Français”,

     1922, “Le Patissier Royal Parisien”,

    1825,“l’Art de la Cuisine au 19th Century”, 1933, “Le Cuisinier Parisien”

    Credits: “Chartreuses”, many desserts on Piedestal, 289 sauces & soups, many

    elaborated Garnishes, Meringues, shaped Vol au vent. “ les Oeuf pochéCarême” & Many others.

    Born in a poor family, the young Carême was put out on the street at the age of ten,

    which was the norms during this era, with the background of a large Family.

    Mr Carême learned the rudiment of cookery in a low class restaurant “the Maine gate”,

    He became Apprentice at the age of 16 at “Baillyrue Vivienne.

    One of the best pastry cooked in Paris was amazed,

    by the driving force and the ability of the young man, Mr Bailly encourage him.

    Mr Carême started to develop his artistic art by going to the National library to copy architectural details and drawings,

    to reproduce and put in display to be admire, at Mr Bailly’s establishment.



    Mr Talleyrand < an influential politician and a great Gastronome in Paris, started to notice the young man.

    He offered to take Mr Carême into his service, under Mr Avis.

    Mr Carême stayed on for 12 years at Mr Talley and service, using his skill as a diplomatic tool,

    in the turmoil of the French History. He went on to serve dignitary such as the Prince Regent of England & the future King George the 4thof England.

    He was even called to the court of the tsar Alexander the 1st, where he learned some Russian dishes, and started to introduce them to the French cuisine,

    dishes such as Koulibiac” & “Borsh”.

    He went on to services such as the Viennese court, the British Embassy, Princess Bagration, Lord Steward & with the Baron Rothschild.

    He died totally burnt out by his genius, in addition of the charcoal of the roasting-spit. He brought the then food fashion to its heights;

    Mr Talleyrand ounce said about him “He taught us to eat”.

    Mr Carême is one of the founders of “La Grand Cuisine” with some of our present day treats.

    He is renowned as to be part of the French national prestige.

    He developed many techniques still employed these days, as they have managed to stay alive since their creation,

    he changed the shapes of the sugar pans, shape of the hats etc.…

    his talents in the Culinary Art, has never been contested and will never be.

    Even I have tried to reproduce some its drawings or studies, as I wanted to experience and see the intricacy of such work.

    Me a modern man of the 20th century it would have taken me a lot of times of practice for achieving what he was doing.

    I always practiced and drew plates trying to place details on tem.

    And it is imperative that a chef or cook of standard do those movements


    Here are few recipes translated.

    Bread sauce

    “Chop 1 clove of garlic. 1 shallots and some parsley, put them in a saucepan with ½ glass of white wine,

     boil down, then mix in 2 tablespoons (3 Tablespoons) very fine breadcrumbs a little butter,

     a pinch of mignonette and grated nutmeg, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoon) of a good consommé

     with 2 to 3 tablespoon of light veal stock. Boil down by half and add the juice of a lemon”

    Curry sauce a l’Indienne (for poached eggs or shelled boiled eggs poultry & mutton))

    Put into a saucepan a few slices of lean ham, 1 chopped onion, a bouquet garni, 2 punnets of mushrooms chopped,

     3 cloves, a good pinch of pimento, a pinch of cayenne pepper and a little mace.

    Add 2 to 3 tablespoons chicken consomme. Simmer over low heat, strain, and remove all grease.

    When it is somewhat boiled down mix in some Allemande sauce. Add a small infusion of saffron so as tp colour it yellow,

    then strain through a cloth. Before serving, put in a little butter and 3 punnets of small mushrooms.”

    “Small green gherkins cut to look like olives can be added to this sauce.”

    Bavarian Cream au Parfait d’Amour

    “Shred half the peel of a lemon very finely, boil 2 cup of milk, add the shredded lemon,

    6 crushed cloves and 225gr (8oz, 1 cup) caster sugar, leave to infuse for an hour, and strain through a muslin cloth into a basin,

    add 25gr (1 oz) slightly warm and clarified issing glass, and a few drop of Cochineal essence.

    Put the basin into a bowl of ice as soon as the mixture begins to set, fold in whipped cream.

    Bavarian Cream aux Roses

    Stir the petals off about 30 picked roses, put them with a pinch of cochineal grains, into 225gr (8oz, 1 cup) clarified boiling sugar syrup.

    Cover, strain the mixture through muslin cloth into a bowl. When it begins to set fold in whipped cream”

    Blanc mange

    “Bitter almonds. Leave them to soak in a bowl of cold water, which renders them singularly white.

    Drain on a sieve and rub them together in a napkin. Pound in a mortar, moisten them, little by little, with ½ tablespoon of water at a time,

    to prevent them turning into oil. When they are pounded into a fine paste, put into a bowl and dilute with 5 glass of filter water,

    added a little at a time, spread a clean napkin over a dish pour the Blancmange into it and, with 2 people twisting the napkin,

    press out all the almond milk. Put in 350gr (12oz, 1 ½ cup) granulated sugar and rub through a fine sieve.

    Strain through a napkin once again, and add 30gr (1oz, 4 grains) clarified isinglass a little warmer than tepid.

    Blend with the blancmange. Pour into a mould and place in a container with crushed ice.

    “To make Rum Blancmange, add ½ glass of Rum to the mixture describe above.

    To make a Maraschino Blancmange add ½ a glass”

    “To serve this sweet in small pots, prepared two thirds of the quantity given in the precedent recipe.

    You will however, need a little less isinglass, as blancmange served in small pots has to be more delicate than when it is to be turned out.

    Blancmange can be flavoured with lemon, vanilla, coffee, chocolate, pistachio nuts, hazelnuts & Whipped cream can also be incorporated.”
  4. petalsandcoco


    Likes Received:
    Private Chef

    What a very interesting thread you created.

    I have a question that was once asked by another Chef here and I was wonderding what your opinion was ....

    Who is considered the "father" of classic French cuisine?

    By the way, the oyster mousseline recipe is spot on.

    Last edited: Dec 12, 2011
  5. boar_d_laze


    Likes Received:
    Cook At Home
    Chef Petals,

    A lot depends on what you mean by "classic."  In terms of influence you're probably drawing from Varenne, Careme and Escoffier.  Since "father" includes "first," there's a strong case for Francois Pierre de la Varenne the first hugely influential standardizer of elegant French cooking.   

    But even though his cuisine includes some still-current ideas, it doesn't bear much resemblance to anything you'd find in a 20th Century restaurant -- much less 21st.  If you're talking about food you might have eaten in an elegant French restaurant of the 60's you'd probably choose Escoffier but might make a better case for Pellaprat. 

    "Nouvelle," has been around for fifty years, and has become classic French -- as well as the antecedent of "New International" -- in its own right.  If so, the fathers would be guys like Bocuse and Guerard.   

    Last edited: Dec 12, 2011
  6. denis dubiard

    denis dubiard

    Likes Received:
    Professional Chef
    well that is a question! I hopefuly will reply to you with an insight of what I think! as most cooks and chefs of different era's have been given a lots to the industry and the french classics. but here what I think there is more than one. the mains authors as they are so many.

    lets place jus the major one.


    MR Escoffier August

    “The Emperor of the Chefs”

    Born: Villeneuve-Loubet, 1846

    Died: Monte-Carlo, 1935

    Books: “the Guide Culinaire”, 1903, “Le Livre des Menus”, 1912,

    Both in collaboration with Mr Phileas Gilbert & Mr Emile Fetu, ”Le Carnet d’Epicure”, 1911, “ Les Fleurs en Cire”, 1911 a new edition from 1886 version,

    “Le Ritz”, 1927, “La Morue”, 1929, “ Ma Cuisine”, 1934,

    Credits: “Peach Melba”, “Chaud-froid Jannette”, “Cuisse de Nymphe Aurore” for the Prince of Wales, “Rejane Salad”, “Mignonette of quail Rachel”, and many more.

    Mr Escoffier started is apprenticeship, doing the washing up at the age of 13, in his Uncle restaurant in Nice. He came up later in Paris, then went back down in Nice, Lucerne, & in Monte Carlo, where he met Mr Cesar Ritz & Mr Echenard.

    They all came up to London to open the “Savoy Hotel”. He went on cooking in this premise until 1889. He became home seek, and went to the “Carlton” Hotel in Cannes.

    Mr The Emperor William the 2nd conferred to him the title of the “Emperor of the Chefs”, on the “Imperator” the Imperial steamer, where Mr Escoffier took charge of the Imperial Kitchens. He was rewarded as a “Chevalier de la Legion d’Honeur” in 1920, “Officer de la Legion d’Honeur”, in 1928, for all the work that he has done for promoting the prestige of French Cuisine.

    Mr Escoffier retired of is duty in 1921 at the age of 74, he raised himself as the level as Mr Careme and all the greatest names,

    which have been floating along the flow of time. He left us at the age of 89 years, with a respectful legacy that would never be equal.

    Most of his work is one of authority, with recipes that are unforgettable, created & named after so many illustrious people, from all the Art, Political & Social world. He carried the work of our past master for us to play wisely, with respect for foodstuff & their origins.

    His house in Villeneuve-Loubet was transform as a museum in 1966 in memory of his living time

    Les Meres Lyonnaises <

    Nickname of several cooks: 19th century

    They all contributed to the fame of the cuisine Lyonnaise, they gave an in credible Path for their successor like

    Mr Paul Bocuse <, Mr Fernand Point < & Mr Alain Chapel


    Mme Francoise Foujolle, also known as Mere Filloux

    She was the first Mere Lyonnaise to be recognise and respected in the culinary world, Madame Foujolle become re-known between 1890 & 1925, serving truffles, Foie gras, quenelles au gratin with many other speciality.

    Her success inspired many, they became Rivals in business

    Mlle Francoise Married to Mr Filloux the owner of a wine bar.


    la mere Brazier and  

    Meres Brigousse, Blanc, Niogret, Bigot, Guy, Brijean, Ponpon, Charles, Etc…

    They were all excellent cooks, Cordon Bleu trained; they were employed in well to do Family. They all open small restaurant that was frequented by regulars.


    Mme Lea

    Mme Lea is the last of the mere Lyonaise, her Establishment was open till 1980’s.

    They gave a warm welcome to their clients, they all contributed at the establishing of the Cuisine Lyonnaise


    Mr Montagne Prosper

    French Chef: Born: Carcassonne, 1864 “A Master”

    Died: Sevres, 1948

    Books: “Le Larrousse Gastronomic”, with Dr Gottschalk in 1938, “La Grand Cuisine Illustree”, with Mr Prosper Salles 1900, “La Cuisine Fine”, 1913, “Le Tresor de la cuisine du basin Mediterranean, le Festin Occitan”, 1929, “La Cuisine avec ou sans Ticket”, 1941,

    Credits: “Mont-Bry” Garnishes & various dishes named, the first organizer of Cooking Competitions, & Gastronomic Exhibitions, a Club of gastronome was founded in memory of him by Mr Rene Morand.

    Mr Montagne was the son of an Hotelier in Carcassonne, who moved to Toulouse to open another premises. He took on his father occupation instead of following architecture study.

    He work is way up in Parisian establishment & in the South, he came back to take on the kitchen of the “Pavillon d’Arrmenonville”, “le Doyen”, & at “le Grand Hotel” where he started & finished.

    Mr Montagne went to the United State during the First World War, as an adviser for a Chicago Abattoirs. He returned in Paris to open a Restaurant, which started to be known and frequented by Gastronome during 1920.

    His Named will live on with his Books of references, specially “the Larrousse Gastronomique” an invaluable tool for the present Chefs & Cooks.

    but through the centuries back we had for example


                   Mr Durand Charles

    “Le Careme of Provencal Cooking”

    French Chef:

    Born: Ales, France, 1766

    Died: Nimes, 1854

    Books: “Le Cuisinier Durand”, 1803.

    Mr Durand was the one who popularised French Regional cooking at a time it was unknown,

    he open restaurant in Ales & Nimes, his book is a collection of authentic Provencal recipes, with dishes such as “Brandade” (Salt Cod dish)

    Mr Durand introduced Paris at enjoying the South Dishes
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2011
  7. petalsandcoco


    Likes Received:
    Private Chef
    Thank you Chef BDL,

    I agree with all the points you made. I found this bit of info off the web and found it interesting as well.

    "The Book of Apicius, copies of which must have been kept and circulated among convents and the master-cooks of noble establishments, appears to have been the only codified collection of recipes available up to the fourteenth century, when Guillaume Tirel, dit Taillevent, produced his Viandier, the first French cookery book. Guillaume Tirel was born in 1324 and we first hear of him as one of the Happelapins, the name given to the kitchen boys or 'Jacks' who kept the old spits on the move, in the kitchen of Jeanne d'Evreux, Queen of France, in 1326. In 1346, he was Keu or cook in the service of King Philip VI; in his title was Ecuyer de l'Ostel de Mons, and his master was the Dauphin or heir to the throne. In 1359 he was in the service of the Duke of Normandy; in 1368 he was cook to King Charles V of France, and in 1373 Premier Keu or chief cook. In 1381 he became Ecuyer de Cuisine to King Charles VI and from 1388 to 1392 he was Premier Ecuyer of the royal kitchens; in 1395 he died. So we know all about him and we know that his successive royal masters all had the greatest faith in his skill and honesty. It was at the request of one of them, Philip of Valois, that Tirel wrote a collection of recipes, in or about the year 1375.

    At the time when Guillaume Tirel was in charge of the kitchens of King Charles VI of France, Richard II of England kept a much more sumptuous table with no fewer than three hundred servants in the kitchens under the Master Cook, whose name has unfortunately not been preserved. We have, however, ample proofs of his ability and professional skill 1375 the pages of The Forme of Cury, the title of the cookery book which this anonymous but truly great chef wrote at the request of his royal master, whom he addresses, in his Introduction, as 'best and ryallest viander of all christian kynges.'

    There is no reason to believe that Richard's chef, who wrote the Forme of Cury, ever had the benefit of seeing the Viandier, written some fifteen years earlier by Guillaume Tirel. There are, of course, here and there, some points of analogy, as has happened with most cookery books published since then, but the two books bear unmistakable marks of the individuality of their respective authors.

    Even when the recipe bears the same title in the two books, the ingredients used are different, since it was not possible to have exactly the same materials in France and in England. Thus the recipe given in the Viandier for Blancmange is somewhat like this 'Pound and mix together the boiled breast of a capon, some breadcrumbs, sugar, ginger and almond milk; rub through a sieve; flavour with rosewater and thicken on a slow heat.' In the Form of Cury, the recipe given for Blancmange is a better one, gastronomically since it leaves out the breadcrumbs and introduces boiled rice to be served with boiled and shredded breast of capon, with milk of almonds and some fried almonds as garnishing. The typically English part of this recipe is the rice, which was not introduced into France before 1421, whereas it was used in the kitchens of Richard II thirty years earlier.

    In 1403, when Henry IV of England married Jeanne de Navarre, the wedding feast consisted of six courses, the first three being meat courses and the last three fish courses; each course included from six to eight different dishes, nearly every one of them mentioned in The Forme of Cury, the 'Mrs. Beeton's' of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries in England. At Court and among the noble houses throughout England during the fifteenth century, fine fare and wines from many lands appear to have been more plentiful than on the Continent."

    @ DD : Yes, Tirel too.
  8. denis dubiard

    denis dubiard

    Likes Received:
    Professional Chef

    Mr Tirel Guillaume


    French Cook:

    Born:   Pont-Audermer, 1310

    Died: Pond-Audemer, 1395


    Books: “Le Viandier” 4 Manuscript were found by the Baron Jerome Pichon,

    which were published with the help of Mr Gabriel Vicaire in 1892,

    with explanatory about the author’s life & Career. It is the first known Cookery treatise

    Credits: “Cressoniere soup”, Aigo Boulido soup”, “Pithiviers”, “Pear in wine”, “Almond Blanc mange”, “Ham with Leeks”, “Salmon pate with Sorrel”

    Mr de Taillevent is the author of the oldest cookery book of his type.


    His name is found as far as 1326 in a manuscript describing the coronation of Jeanne d’Evreux, he was a kitchen boy at that time.

    Mr Tirel entered the service of numerous dignitaries.

    He cooked in the kitchen of Philipe de Valois, in the household of the Dauphin, for the Duke de Normandy,

    Charles the 5th & subsequently Charles the 6th.who ennobled him, he elevated him to “Master of the King’s kitchen”.

    He was nicknamed “Taillevent”, apparently by the length of his nose. (Shaped to carve the wind).

    The old word “Viande” means food stuff, not especially meat..

    He was commission by the king to write the treatise about all matter of food preparation of the time,

    (his influence was felt in Italy in Catherine de Medici’s kitchen) & Centuries, till the late 20th Century, with “Nouvelle Cuisine”.
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2011