Review: Pig: King of the Southern Table

nicko

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If you travel a lot, as I do, you tend to eat the signature protein of the area. Visiting New York, for instance? That means beef; prime cuts of T-bone, and strip steak, and, the real specialty of the house, short ribs. In the Pacific Northwest you opt for fresh seafood; Dungeness crab, and salmon newly out of the ocean, and oysters salty and sweet as home made sin.

 Similarly, in the American South, you eat pork. Pork in all it’s myriad forms. Hams and loins and ribs, for sure. But also the ears, and feet, and jowls of the critter. No part of a hog is ever wasted, in the south. There are reasons---cultural, environmental, and economic---why the South reveres pork, and has done so ever since DeSoto released the first hogs into Florida, in the late 1500s.

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