on the shapton progresssion?

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Joined Nov 13, 2016
I probably wouldn't buy these but I am just curious, I have a Shapton glass 8000, would it be ok to like jump to the 16,000, and skip the10,000 grit, or would it matter?
 
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Joined Jul 13, 2012
Agree an edge that keen will not hold up to regular kitchen use.  A sushi chef might take his yanagi that high, but none the ones I've talked to do.  
 
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Joined Nov 13, 2016
Like I said I am just curious, I got as sujihiki, I was thinking of the 10,000, or would that be to high of grit for the Suihiki, so would the 8000 be to high also for like a Gyuto.
 
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Joined Apr 25, 2014
You can definitely do it but it might seem 'too slick'.   Double bevel - gyuto, suji,  i stop around 6k.   Your most important stones are 

-1k-2k range for normal sharpening

- 5k-6k for finishing

-200-300 for repairs, quick bevel setting, thinning

You should spend most of your sharpening budget on those three because they are used the most.  8k+ is polishing your edge/knife depends on how you use it.  It makes sense more on single bevels and wide bevels.
 
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Joined Dec 21, 2012
I have always been curious as to how much stone progression is worthwhile vs just for show.  I have an EDGE PRO and most are there factory stones but do have a few shapton's for bridging missing grit areas.  I used to go through all my stones on each knife until I could read a book in the reflection but have since stopped due to not seeing a noticeable difference when stopping at 800-1000 vs going to 3k.  I am a home cook but take pride in having all my knives sharp especially the kitchen knifes so sharpening them once a month is almost like therapy.
 
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Joined Nov 13, 2016
I think I know what your talking about, I just sharpened my Gyuto, and when I got to the 6000, and then the 8000 I couldn't really tell the difference, under a bright light and a magnifier, I am thinkin I wasted my money on the 8000, probably on the 6000, also, these are those Shapton glass stones, lol, too late now to get my money back.
 
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Joined Jan 25, 2013
the higher grits do cost a bit more.  it all goes back to the knife, the blade steel and how you cut.  If you slice, stopping at 400 to 600 grit will give an aggressive edge that work for most anything except very thin slices like sushi or garnishes.  going to 1200 will give an edge that excels at push cutting.
 
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Joined Jan 25, 2013
 
@Scott Livesey  which grit scale are you referring to?
ANSI/CAMI is the scale I use.  it can get very confusing, here is a grit chart that shows what I mean http://www.imcclains.com/productinfo/documents/Grit Comparison Chart.pdf.  for my 'worker' or daily use blades, I usually finish on a fine Norton India.  that would be ANSI 320 or Fepa P400 or Shapton Glass 500.  It is geometry that cuts.  I would work to get the final bevel down to less than 10 degrees per side with a micro bevel no more than 15 degrees per side.  honing your edge to Shapton 8000 is great, but the refinement you have given the edge will be gone after the first pound of potatoes you slice for supper.  

I know it is not scientific, but when sharpening I use the following scales.  "Easily slices newsprint" works well for high volume slicing(Norton fine India). "Push cuts newsprint" or "shaves without pulling" for very thin slices and for raw proteins(JewelStik fine diamond bench hone or Shapton glass 4000). This is for blades 1/16" (0.0625" or 1.5mm) or thinner, high hardness (Rc62-65), edge angle of 8 degrees per side.

scott
 
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