Masahiro or Kikuichi

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Joined Nov 26, 2016
I'm looking for a gyuto for under $200. I am teetering between kikuichi elite carbon vs masahiro carbon. Both 240mm. Any tips or suggestions? Just looking for a prep slaying workhorse. I am currently cutting with a misono ux10. I like it but it isn't good for a lot of tasks I've come to realize. Once I get a new one I'll retire that one to a slicer. I have a Kikuichi elite carbon petty and it is fantastic. So I'm leaning towards the gyuto since I know the quality. But I've heard great things about the masahiro carbon as well.
 
7
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Joined Nov 26, 2016
Is your UX-10 a 240 gyuto as well, and what is the problem?

It's a 240 gyuto yes. The problem is that it dulls way too quickly and doesn't retain a good edge. I'm good at sharpening. I don't haven these problems with any of my other knives. I have the Kikuichi elite petty and I only have to steel it like 3 times a week, and only put it to the stone every few months. I understand that I'm not putting it through the same type of work but it just seems the steel is way better. I'm beginning to think it's just a matter of carbon vs stainless.
 
7
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Joined Nov 26, 2016
Let's solve that question first. UX-10 in general has a decent edge retention at a very acceptable level of sharpness. How do you sharpen it? Do you use a steel with UX-10?

I know that, that's why I bought it. But that has not been my experience. Out of the box it was dull within 2 weeks. I steeled it and it got a little better but dulled quickly (that day). Thereafter I am having to put it on a stone weekly to get anything thing out of it. My buddy had a tojiro that kept getting oddly dull. He swore it was the cutting boards we were using at that restaurant. I dono if I buy it. But I guess it's possible. But yes I steel it.
 
7
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Joined Nov 26, 2016
A factory edge that dulls after two of restaurant work -- not bad. Please stop steeling. You're rebuilding an edge with fatigued material, it won't last.
If the edge is dull is has to be sharpened on stones, so that fatigued steel can be removed. In case of only a bit of performance loss you may revive an existing by stropping on your finest stone, or the one before.
How do you sharpen it? I ask because I suspect an improper deburring, which is essential with this steel -- just as with your colleague's VG-10.
Depending on how dull, 600->1000->6000->10,000. If it just needs a pick me up then 3000->10,000
 
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Joined Nov 26, 2016
I should have added that the Misono factory edge is a bit a special case. Overly convexed and weak, due to factory buffering.
My suggestion would be to get rid of it. Use your 600 to build a conservative standard asymmetric edge, right side convexed, ending at some 12 degrees, left side a small 20 degree straight bevel. Strop and deburr on the 1000, deburr only on the 6000. Unless you do a lot of push cutting there's no need for a highly polished edge, and UX-10 would make a poor candidate IMHO.

Thanks for your suggestion. I'm gonna send it to Korin for a professional sharpen and use it for a meat slicer. But we are off topic. Masahiro or Kikuichi?
 
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Joined Apr 25, 2014
1) Instead of a steel, use a finishing stone if space allows. Couple of stropping strokes on a 6k grit splash and go takes what.. 30 seconds? Should keep it going good as new. You only need to do full sharpening stone progression when this fails.

2) consider adding a microbevel it really helps with edge retention
 
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