looking for a change , but need advice

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Ok thanks for summing that up, I'm assuming the Ikea artisian and akifusa are all in their own league , havnt used them neither , I'm a little tight on suppliers here in UK, so I'm struggling finding some knives, I know of Japanese knife imports , and cktg , but they don't have a huge variety , and the more I read about some knives the more indecisive I become.
Are there any other companies that will ship to UK, that I'm not aware of?
 
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Ok so havnt stopped looking through numerous knifed , then I popped into a shop near by me, they couldn't get a hold of a few knifes however I seen a knife in there back cabinet, and its beautiful , just beautiful , the yaxell super gou chefs knife , has any one ever heard of these , it's the first time I've come accross one. Any info would be amazing and any reviews even better, don't forget I work in a busy rosette kitchen , so I need great delicate work but I need it to be able to be my work horse at times also, so if you have any reviews on it , I'll be happy!
 
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Also pros and cons comparison on white carbon steel to sg2 that's been sprayed with carbide powder?
 
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Ya what millions said.  Also,the Takamura Migaki is a non-damascus R2 knife that is a lot less money and a proven performer.  

But these are not tough knives as already pointed out.  White #1 is not known for toughness either.

For powdered steel SRS15 is relatively tough.  Compared to R2 it gives up some on sharpness, but has better edge retention.

Rick
 
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Ok so I think I'll take your advice Rick, and every one else who's inputted here , thank you very much, I'll be ordering the takamura tonight and working with that for a while and see what I think also my sharpening isn't perfect so I aggree with the fact I could risk destroying a perfectly good knife! Thanks for your help guys !
 
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Maybe , I'm pretty decent , so I don't see it as a huge problem , I have heard when you send knifed out there's been cases were a lot of the edge was ground away, worrying thought!
 
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Benuser's suggestion about sending it to a good sharpener for a first sharpening has merit, but also a basic flaw - which you outlined.

The problem is that how do you find a decent quality sharpener?

Certainly Dave Martell is good.  Also Jon Broida.  

But all too often the market is filled with hack sharpeners who have either a motorized knife sharpener (such as a Chef's Choice) or a desire to play "Knife Expert" with a high-speed grinder.

Much better to do it yourself.

Personally, I would use my Edge Pro Apex (or an "Edge Faux" Chinese knock-off) with stones which are at least of Edge Pro quality.

The major problem is seen as a difficulty in getting the Edge Pro down to very low angles, so that when needed, the knife can be properly thinned.

However, you can make a very simple "platform thickener" that will put the ultimate lowest angle of the stone down to actually below zero degrees, by making a 2 inch thick by 3 inch wide by 4 inch long platform.

If it's laminated wood, then you can just glue up the strips to the right thickness.  During lamination, you can also put powerful magnets near the front of the platform thickener, near the corners, under the top surface of the platform thickener.  I would suggest they be round and flat, with the diameter of the magnets just less than the largest drill bit you readily can use.

For a source of plywood, you can try a local crafts store, such as Michael's, which sells a Revell brand kit of 3 inch wide hobby plywood in a bag.  

Once constructed  put a block of wood with its back about 55% of the thickness of the platform thickener back from the front edge of the platform thickener (for a 2 inch thickness, that would be 1.1 inch).  This will position the platform at just the right distance from the vertical pole of the Edge Pro, so that the edge of the thickener will align at just the same distance from the vertical pole as your original Edge Pro platform's front edge.  

Then drill a hole through the centerline of the platform, so that you can insert a bolt through the platform thickener that will allow a bolt to reach the slot in the Edge Pro platform.  Countersink that hole enough to allow for a flathead bolt to rest with the top of the bolt below the top surface of the platform thickener.  

Next, drill a hole through a piece of wood narrow enough to fit in the slot of the Edge Pro platform.  This will allow you to have the platform thickener and this strip of wood clamp the Edge Pro platform without putting pressure on the Edge Pro;s platform support splines. 

Assuming you do use plywood or some other wood product, be sure to paint or otherwise seal the entire surface of the platform thickener (and don't forget to do the same with the drilled hole - a "Q-Tip" will spread your paint, varnish or other sealant down the hole just fine).  That sealant will protect the platform from moisture problems. 

You can now assemble the platform thickener and use it to lower the effective lowest angle of the Edge Pro to any angle desired.  Of course, the angle markings on the vertical pole will not be usable, but anyone using an angle cube can establish angles without further problems.  And there should be enough thickness on a 2 inch platform thickener to allow for use of the drill stop collar trick for establishing consistent uniform angles between different thickness Edge Pro mounted stones.

Galley Swiller
 
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Ok, been using the takamura for almost two days on 12 hours shifts and I'm just blown away by this knife. It weighs next to nothing which at first , was a bit worrying, I like heavy knifed hence the wustof, but wow, the wustoff has been put away and not came out since it does all the delicate garnishes , no problem with such a laser thin blade it slides through any thing ive tryed so far, I've even convinced my chef to pick one up he's that impressed after a brief test , now all I need to ask is angles , nw it doesn't need it , but I will probably give it a strop tonight out of habbit, angles on wustoff I was using was 20 as it is with most knifes from European cultures, now I have a feeling this knife is using a 15 double bevel, can someone verify this for me so I can more or less work out the right angle for the takamura migaki r2, just so I don't make any mistakes in future when it comes to sharpening as I tend to free hand, if there is any guides out there that can achieve the angle that is necasary I'm all ears , as for building my own apex, I can't see myself getting round to that as I'm or we are in Christmas season now, lots of tours , busy restaraunt nights , we don't stop! Thanks again for reccomending this knife , I'm in love! The misses also thanks you for tempting me to spend 130ish$ over 300 pounds! Bonus ;-)
 
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@pricey are you right handed?  Unless marked otherwise, gyutos are asymmetric for righties.   Flat side more flat, right side more convexed for food release.  For sharpening angles you have two options

1) follow the factory angle.  Mark the edge bevel with a sharpie, when you sharpen, it will abrade away the sharpie.  You can easily see if your angles too high, too low, etc

2) Do what you want and set your own.   As a righty, I sharpen probably 12 degrees on the right side and 15 on the left.  don't measure though, that's just a guess.  At these more acute angles, you can add a microbevel on one side to strengthen the edge.

IMO you don't need a guide, it doesn't matter what the angle is, as long as you can hold it consistently in your sharpening session
 
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A righty indeed, I will have a look tonight , I already can sharpen on stones and have a nice set that I bought a while back,I'm not perfect but I can keep a constistent angle more or less 90 % of the time, I hope but the sharpie idea sounds brilliant, as for the angle I'm amazed by the angle the set the knife comes with so I will stick to that . The knife bareley touches the board I find myself very delicate with it so I can't imagine the strength being an issue? I will read through those websites and watch the videos tonight after work . I found myself chopping every thing in the kitchen , just for the sake of playing with the knife, beautiful performer . Really happy .
 
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pricey, don't be surprised if the factory primary bevel angle on your knife is 10 degrees or less.

MillionsKnives, at this point SG2 and R2 probably are the same, but there have been at least 2 "R2" steels, made by different steel companies.

Kobelco Steel ("Kobe") is the manufacturer of the steel "SG2" and its version of "R2".  It's the same steel, excepting that the "SG2" designation is used as the core steel by Takefu Special Steel in their marketing of their clad product (Takefu does not make their steel.  They buy the raw steel from firms such as Kobelco and then clad the core steel and outer layer steels before selling that product to clients, generally with a trade name that Takefu supplies).

The other version of "R2" steel is or was manufactured by GSB Acero Steel.  There's apparently some doubt as to whether GSB Acero is still making any "R2".

For a detailed description, see this post on Kitchen Knives Forum (mostly about 2-1/2 years old):  http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/10067-R2-and-SG-2-steel

Hope that either helps (or confuses)

Galley Swiller
 
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Indeed, this is completely different to the wustoff I'm used to , even global didnt need such an acute angle, still it's all a learning curve and I'm too stubborn to just go back to German knifed besides I've fell in love with this knife so far, so now I'm aware the factory angle isn't really a finish, I've put the knife away, I have a sharpie at home so I'll use the sharpie trick, can I ask why do most people reccomend a 15 degree angle on japaneese knifed , or is this a Chinese whispers and every one has their own personalised angles to sharpen, having not used many Japanese knifed let alone sharpen , I will probably try what millions suggested with 15 on right 12 on left. Now another querie, I got a set , of whetstones not so long ago it was a 1000#6000#13000# now when I was listening to John from jki last night he specifies a finishing stone should not really exceed 6k in his oppiniom as the extra polish doesn't do kitchen knifed any favours , but from what Ive seen it does? Can that just depend on the knifes?
 
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That's probably about right, I don't actually know what angles I sharpen at, I never measured.  It is eyeball estimation based on knowing what 90, 45, 22.5, and half of that look like.  What I was trying to illustrate is that the right side should be a little more acute for asymmetry reasons. 

As for how high grit to go, I stop at 5 or 6k on double bevels.  This is preference.  If it's too slick, you can have trouble with tomato skin, onion skin,things like that.  On single bevels and straight razors, I take it to much higher grit.
 
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Ok so , happy with the takamura , works well for my slicing dicing , ext and my arty farty garnishes, now, now I need a usuba, I think they are they called? For veg prep as in more thicker veg like squashes , pumpkins, save chipping the takamura!
 
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Pricey - can I ask you what blade length you went for and where you bought your knife (it was the Migaki wasn't it?) from?

I'm in the UK too and am looking for a couple of knives

Cheers
 
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