Two out of three wouldn't be bad, Ed. And Chefross never said anything about ambience.
The fact is, food quality within the context of its type should be equal. And good service is good service, no matter where it's found. Service reflects an attitude which is either present in the wait staff or not.
I once ordered fried clams at a Shoney's. Apparently, what went into the fryer was the last of a bag, and was mostly bits and pieces of the breading, with almost no clam meat. That portion should never have been put on a plate (not because it wasn't up to Le Bernardin standards, but because it wasn't up to Shoney standards), and, once it was, the server should never have tried bringing to table.
On the other hand, we can all tell stories about poor food and/or lousy service in fine dining restaurants.
So, no matter what sort of occult powers you attribute to Le Grande Eric and other such restauranteurs, there really shouldn't be any difference in quality/service expectations between the two types of restaurants.