How do you "hold" sauces?

My current work holds its sauces in a bain marie for during dinner service. Rest of the day it's kept in the fridge to be heated to order. Alfredo is also kept in the bain marie and usually keeps well, just make sure to keep it covered and stir occasionally.

 

If your "Alfredo" is really a Mornay by another name, you can hold it in a bain marie set in a steam table.  If it's "real" Alfredo, which is to say a highly emulsified version of al burro, you can hold it in the fridge but you'll want to beat it soft again before using so it holds the emulsion when it melts. 

Personally, I think your original idea was far better than what the "local Italian restaurant" is getting up to.  You're definitely  better holding most of your other sauces cold; heating them a minute in a skillet, then tossing the cooked, al dente pasta in the sauce until all is as it should be. 

Ladling red sauce on naked pasta is prevalent here in the US of A, but it's kind of barbaric when you think about it.  In any case, it's not the best way to serve pasta.

BDL

 

Amen to BDL's post.....

If you're paying upwards of $10.00 for a plate of pasta, it should be be heated a'la minute and tossed with a decent, al dente cooked pasta.   No "funny business" with putting oil in the cooking water, just 10 parts of rolling boiling salted water to 1 part pasta.  Portion the cooked pasta out in take-away soup containers, and heat up in water a'la minute and toss with the sauce.  Many places saute off a garnish in the pan first (onions, chorizo, pancetta, chicken, garlic, etc) then add in the cold sauce, bring to a boil, then add in the drained hot pasta and toss.

High volume places will keep their sauces in a steam table.  However anything kept in a steam table will eventually suffer steam table damage, 

Dececco and Barilla rank as pretty good pastas, with Barilla ranking as #1 in Italy due to "bragging rights" about using  solid 24 ct gold extruding dies in the factory.*  Good pastas will use a bronze die in the extruding machine which gives the pasta a slightly rougher texture and helps the sauce cling on to it better, as well as some kind of "grandmother's secret process" of drying the pasta prior to packaging.  Cheap pastas use cheap softer wheat, nylon dies, and high volume fans--nursing home pasta....

Believe it or not most of Italy's best pasta comes from Canadian wheat, and most of France's best mustard--comes from Canadian mustard seeds.....

*Never been to the factory, and won't believe it untill I see it.......

 

OK, how long does it really take to heat a pasta sauce, or for that matter, make it from scratch?

6-7 minutes?

How long does it take to cook the pasta al dente? 3-11 minutes, depending on the pasta.

So, what's the question?

Why bother holding "hot sauces" when all they do is degrade and à la minute matches the pasta cooking time?

And I do NOT substitute a "mornay sauce" for Alfredo, thank you very much!

 

okay, pete and bdl, pleae don't get your knickers in a twist about the dif between alfredo and mornay..you are both kinda right...pete, i think that eveyone thinks of alfredo with fettuccine, as in 'fettuccine alfredo'...lots of cream, parm, stock, more cream,and a boat load of garlic...mornay, is also a basic bechamel sauce with the addition of a cheese..usually swiss,not parm, which to me is the queintestiental difference alfredo and mornay...a good parm adds the perfect blend of saltiness to  alfredo... for  mornay, cheese may be swiss or gruyere......i think the  big difference is that the french don't pair their alfredo/mornay with a pasta, like the italians do, but more commonly with fish.... personal note, i love love love alfredo sauce...i could just eat it as a soup sometimes, with a reall good epi loaf...big question in my head, i ALWAYS.ALWAYS, ALWAYS add nutmeg to my alfredo sauce......what is the spice added to mornay that would put it apart from the basic bechamel...thyme?...ah the french! do you think they stole the credit for alfredo...no, not the french,, they simply rename it for their own..mornay

as for the sauces added to the dishes, when i have an order for pasta, i heat up a saute pan with water, add the noodle of choice , than add the sauce, meatballs or sausage of choice with fresh basil, garlic, splash  of red wine or wine or marsala to finish the dish..kinda turn into a saute of sorts...not just heating up noodles  in a pasta warmer and just plopping on the sauces...depends on how big your op is, but you gotta trust me on this...its the little extra special touches that make the difference...shaved parm over shredded or grated is HUGE...all over the rim of the plate...people feel special, as they should be...okay,well just my little voice

 

Ah Alfredo....there are more ideas of how it should be made then Dones has pills.

There is no garlic in Alfredo sauce no matter how much Americans want it in there.

It is simply a reduction of cream, butter, and Parmesan cheese.

Very simple, easily prepared, no holding necessary. Made a la minute. Period.

 

i work in an italian restuarant some of the sauces we hold is our tomato(go through alot of it), bechemel for crepes, stocks (fish and veal)and pepercorn in a steam table. alfredo is not really hard to amke some butter and cream and reduce, that can be made ala minute in my opinion and we make it to order. parm is a must and maybe some pecorino. make it simple and delicious, that is key to italian food. pasta is the main event and other things are just condiments. oh dont forget some good pesto i know its not a sauce but when added to a tomato, velute and even alfredo it just takes it to another level

 

The schools of the oil and salt factor.  The only thing the oil does when cooking pasta is to act as an anti foaming agent, it does not lubricate or stop from sticking . Since oil floats on water how could it. Putting cooled down pasta in oil is another thing that there are 2 thoughts. 1. is that coating the pasta later retards the adhesion of the sauce to it. Other says it stops it from sticking together. I cook mine , chill it down weigh it off into portions and plastic bag it. This way everyone gives the same size portion and it is always considered wrapped for health dept. I do not oil it as I have found that when I drop it back into boiling water it comes apart anyway. I salt my water for a bit of flavor, not to make the water hotter because it really doesn't. The above is the way I do it others have other ways, but for me this works. Most of my pasta dishes are a la minute. Only sauce I have in S T is meat sauce and marinara, I use heavy cream for many.

 

We're talking three different kinds of Alfredo.  The one invented by Alfredo and served by him at Alfredo's, his restaurant in Rome, made famous by Mary Pickford and Doug Fairbanks after they ate their frequently on their on their (extremely well-documented) honeymoon, and which started the whole Alfredo sauce thing in the US doesn't have cream nor is it thickened in any way.  Take a look.

It's not necessarily better than the way you make yours, it is what it is.  Just sayin', so my comments about holding cold and beating soft before service make sense.

IMO you could make a mint selling the real deal.  It's all the good and none of the gooey.

BDL

 

p.s.

 yeah, i agree with you bdl on the sacrilege of just ladling sauce on pasta.....ideally, the fresh cooked, unrinsed pasta should be 'tossed' with your sauce of choice..and additional sauce served alongside...always with fresh parm...

joey

 

Most quality upscale places make Alfredo to order, so there is no need to hold. I have even done it to order for large banquets, I used a large pro. wok. Many places simply make a Bechamel and add cheese, we don't.

 

Gobbly,

You can portion with a scoop and hold cold, but you'll have to cream it again before using.  It's got to be very smooth and temped before going on the pasta.  You can re-cream smaller portions easily with an electric hand mixer, and that will temp it as well.

BDL

 

Maybe if you're doing a high volume of pastas it might make sense to keep hot sauces in a steam table.  But where I work we only have 3 pastas on our menu, a spicy marinara, an alfredo, and a creamy pesto.  So for us it makes more sense to keep the sauces cold & then heat them up per order.  We also cook the pasta seperately in hot water & then toss it in the cooked sauce.  To me it doesn't make sense to cook the pasta in the sauce.  Even though they take roughly the same time, sometimes the timing isn't perfect and you could end up with either the sauce or pasta overcooked or undercooked.  The only thing about keeping the sauces hot in a well is you have to make sure the thickness & seasoning of the sauce is correct for each order.  

 

but that's why we get paid the big bucks.....to make sure we DON'T overcook the pasta, the sauce, or anything else for that matter...besides timing, its about patience...holding cream sauces will not only break them down, but change the color i.e. creamy basil pesto, texture (anything with cheese), and ultimately the taste, which is why everyone is there in the first place!

joey

 

A_Mak,

Besides agreeing with Durangojo, I wonder if there isn't a basic misunderstanding going on here.  You wrote,

We may be on wildly different pages.  You seem to be thinking we actually cook the pasta entirely in the sauce.  No, no.  We're not quite that pazzo.

We're talking about a technique in which the pasta is cooked in water, removed and drained when it's barely al dente, added to a skillet on the flame with some sauce in it, where both are tossed together.  The sauced pasta is then turned out, plated and served.  That's the generic, Italian way to handle most pasta and sauce combinations. 

Some are are so delicate to require special handling.  For a few things you want to stay entirely off the flame and rely on the residual heat from the pasta, plus a little pasta water.  They're areall the heat necessary to cook an egg sauce like a traditional Carbonera or melt an al burro like "real" Alfredo* to velvet.  Anymore would curdle one and break the other. 

But, by and large, Plan A is a brief heat on the flame, tossing the pasta and sauce.  For a home cook, it can be difficult to explain to one's spouse why you need to get another pan dirty if you're only going to use it for 30 seconds, her (or his) mom doesn't do it, if you like Mario Batali so much why don't you marry him, etc., etc.  However in a restaurant environment it should be SOP and a non-issue.    

BDL 

* We probably mean different things by Alfredo.  The version I'm talking about is butter and cheese only -- creamed to emulsification.  It doesn't call for additional cream and doesn't get any thickening whether from egg, flour or reduction.