Hot Water Booster

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Joined Nov 15, 2015
Ive been looking for a water temp booster for a few months, currently using a telephone pole sized gas heater, by the time water gets to dish machine its cold, average 107F. Direct line from heater to washer, and about 10 feet apart. So to wrap it up, i need my water hitter, so whats new out there, or a old tough.

I would appreciate a little help here, also ill answer any questions.
 
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Joined Jun 23, 2015
Have you checked out your hot water heater?  What is it set on and how hot is the water in the heater itself? Does your heater have enough capacity?
 
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Joined Nov 15, 2015
120 gallon gas, temp is set to max, I'm getting around 130 at closest line, 2 feet from tank. it definitely has enough capacity. I'm trying to not have to buy a booster for my dishwasher, standard 60 sec cycle dish washer, "Pure Force" supplier. good quality machine, and i have pretty high water pressure. I haven't done anything to the tank besides set temp to max, and it stays there. do you know any tricks to raise the max setting or anything alike? 
 
2,854
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Joined Nov 15, 2012
For one you could insulate your feed lines , and not with that crappy foam tube stuff from the local hardware, you want an R value of 8+, 15 more like it.

But you can get electric mini-boilers that simply go inline and work on-demeand.

Rick
 
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Joined May 25, 2015
You are not going to lose temperature 10 feet from the heater so you are looking at something wrong. I have mine set to somewhere midrange and have no problem getting 140 deg water both at the heater and 25 feet away. So either you are outdrawing it or, most likely there is crud on the bottom that won't let the flame heat the water. When was the last time you opened that drain valve on the bottom and flushed it out?
 
101
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Joined Nov 15, 2015
You are not going to lose temperature 10 feet from the heater so you are looking at something wrong. I have mine set to somewhere midrange and have no problem getting 140 deg water both at the heater and 25 feet away. So either you are outdrawing it or, most likely there is crud on the bottom that won't let the flame heat the water. When was the last time you opened that drain valve on the bottom and flushed it out?

I have not flushed it out, I'll be honest I didn't know that was an option on a water heater. Care to elaborate on the process?
 
2,854
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Joined Nov 15, 2012
Chef Lagome could be right here, but if you have a line of significant volume and the water sits for 5 minutes or more you are going to see significant temperature drop at the end of the line, especially if it is a heavy cast iron feed line.  You have all that cooled water in the line that is going to lower the temperature of the dishwasher reservoir.  And you also loose more heat to the metal in the line getting it up to temp.

I have a 25 foot iron line that my hot water has to run through and it takes about 2 gallons of water to get it from cold to where it should be.  And even with insulation temperature drops from 115F to 100 pretty quick.

Rick
 
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101
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Joined Nov 15, 2015
I agree, im going to try out everything thats been mentioned before i buy a booster or make any large purchase. And with the machine reservoir dishwashers are supposed to refill after 5 minutes. I have debated buying another washer with the booster installed which may be a better long term move.

Thank you Rick and Hal for your input
 
806
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Joined May 25, 2015
I have not flushed it out, I'll be honest I didn't know that was an option on a water heater. Care to elaborate on the process?
Connect a garden hose to the drain valve. Either direct it into a 5 gal pail or run it outside. Open the drain and watch the mud come out, close it when it runs clear. Should be done every few months. See if that makes any difference, if not get yourself a plumber to check it out. The line from the heater to the dishwasher has nothing to do with anything. If the water in the heater is 130 deg the water at the other end should be 130 deg once you let it run for a few seconds. I always like to have a temperature gauge (thermometer) installed in the water heater hot water outlet line right where it connects so that I can keep an eye on the actual temperature. If your temperature is 130 and drops off when you run the machine it looks like the heater can't keep up with the demand. Like I said, it could be filled with mud or there could be other problems. I would investigate why what you have isn't working before jumping to the conclusion that you have to spend money on a booster that will be like a band aid. Maybe you do need a new heater and if so then see if a commercial gas fired on-demand unit meets you needs.
 
4,199
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Joined Dec 18, 2010
Those symptoms are also related with a failing thermostat and gas valve. They aren't as good as the once were. First the temp goes wonky, then the gas valve fails. I've changed 2 in the past 4 years.
 
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Joined Nov 15, 2015
Flushed, ran until perfectly clean water. Wasn't much in it at all, fairly new but by no means commercial. Also don't worry the last thing I'll do is spend money where it isn't necessary I have a friend coming to check it out that does this sort of thing for a living.
 
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Joined Nov 15, 2015
Update: I felt it would be appropriate to let everyone on the thread know what the problem was, my plumbing friend found it out after three days working on the entire system, it was the thermostat and the gas lines filled with buildup, also the previous plumber routed the lines wrong, instead of simply directing the line to washer, he connected from the hand washing sink line to the washer. Words can't describe how relieved I am to have this issue resolved. Dirty dull dishes is my pet peeve by far. I may go celebrate haha. Thanks everyone for the information you all have given me. If any of you need some input on anything besides plumbing message me and I'll be more than happy to help. 180 degrees at washer. Hakuna Matata!
 
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Joined Dec 18, 2010
Thanks for the update. It is always good to hear the end of the story. Congrats on solving your problem. Dingy dishes and silverware sucks.
 
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Joined Nov 15, 2015
Thanks for the update. It is always good to hear the end of the story. Congrats on solving your problem. Dingy dishes and silverware sucks.[/quote

Makes me cringe lol, I've debated trying a new rinse additive. Current one is ok but I like super shiny. A restaurant chemical company just opened near me and I can not wait. I think I'm becoming a restaurant nerd
 
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Joined Nov 15, 2012
Glad to hear it, anyone who bothers to comment always wants to hear the final.  Well since this project has been a magnum opus why not go the tenth yard.  You're running 180deg water, a secondary insulation jacket for the tank will easily enough pay back for itself, look for a high R value.

Rick
 
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Joined Nov 15, 2015
Already done. Using the new clear plastic line for everything now. Expands up to 8 times and is more instigated than anything else out there, it's the future for all plumbing without a doubt. Just a big rubber hose is all it is. So easy to install that I thought I was doing it wrong
 
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Joined Nov 15, 2015
Water lines have been replaced and insulated, washer motor has been rebuilt by the company, water regulator has been replaced. Entire mechanism has been extremely fine tuned including using more water and draining more water. Through this method of dumping all the water, my machine company has to use different chemicals because it will not remain in the tub after washed. The detergent, sanitizer, and rinse chems come in 5 gal buckets for the same price as the 1.1 gal, this all boils down to me saving an outstanding amount of money having cleaner dishes. i had a gut feeling that something should be better about this and im glad it was. Thanks for the help men. :cool:
 

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