GENOISE

Discussion in 'Professional Pastry Chefs' started by lesorcier, Jan 10, 2014.

  1. lesorcier

    lesorcier

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      Forget perfect, I'm having a heck of a time making genoise that is even passable.

    I've read Gisslen and Lenotre and Larousse, even Child, but the result is always the same.

    I start by heating an egg foam to blood warm, then folding in the dry ingredients and lastly the cooled-but-still-liquid clarified butter. The problem comes with the butter, as the batter begins to fall immediately. I know how to fold delicately, so it's not because I'm roughing it up. The finished cakes are light, but grainy.

    I found another recipe called "French Butter Sponge". The technique calls for separating the eggs, whipping the yolks to the ribbon with sugar, then essentially making a French meringue with the whites. Everything gets folded, etc. The result is quite good, but is it genoise?

    This isn't a matter of necessity for me, rather a matter of pride. My shop really doesn't do much patisserie beyond croissants.
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2014
  2. foodpump

    foodpump

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    Beat those eggs!  Whip 'em until pale yellow and almost triple in volume.  The foam should be fairly stiff before folding in the flour.
     
  3. lesorcier

    lesorcier

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    I'll do that. Thanks.
     
  4. lesorcier

    lesorcier

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    What flour do you use? My recipe calls for a blend of H&R and cake.
     
  5. rlyv

    rlyv

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    Two things that I do when making genoise is:

    1. Use a balloon whisk to fold in the dry ingredients.  It helps to break up the flour lumps, and doesn't deflate the batter as much as a spatula will.

    2. After folding in the dry, remove a small amount of batter (about a 1/2 cup or so), whisk that into the butter.  This lightens the butter, and makes folding it in much easier.  It also helps prevent the butter from sinking to the bottom of the bowl.

    Be sure that when whipping the eggs, they are whipped to the full triple volume and very fluffy.   

    These steps helped me get a a nice genoise layer.