estate sale find: new old stock forgecraft project

Discussion in 'Cooking Knife Reviews' started by millionsknives, Apr 18, 2015.

  1. millionsknives

    millionsknives

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    Estate sale find here.  The best condition Forgecraft 10" I've ever seen.  Basically new old stock, barely ever sharpened or done carefully with stones.  It has 2mm more height than my other forgecraft, and the heel isn't oversharpened.  Then again, the spine is sharp, and it could use some thinning.  Where does improvement stop and destroying history begin?


    Ordered spalted oregon maple burl, I should have enough scales for 3 knife rehandles.  I guess I need to find 2 more worthy projects.

    Still shopping for spacer material and mosaic pins.

    Also got a belt sander and drill press this weekend.  Bring on the crafting projects!
     
  2. rick alan

    rick alan

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    Thin to the ribbing, just break the sharp edges, it will still look original and for all intents and purposes be so with a renewed patina.  Not to mention cutting like a dream.

    Rick
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2015
  3. millionsknives

    millionsknives

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    That's about what I did to my current forgie, but it was used enough that I didn't think twice about doing my own work on it..  It was actually very easy to thin.  The ribbing at the top is at a slightly different angle, making a natural stopping point.

    This one got polished with the stone slurry from thinning on each stone and later on sandpaper up to  3M trizact 5k paper.  I don't really care about taking knives to mirror polish, because I'm just going to scratch them up again, but I do like at least an even scratch pattern.


    Right now it has a blue patina from steak night.  Bought this one used, but plenty of life left.  The new one I'm rehandling is going to be a gift.
     
  4. brianshaw

    brianshaw

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    That's a pretty knife and an even prettier piece of wood. Should be a beauty when you finish!
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2015
  5. millionsknives

    millionsknives

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    Busy busy summer. Finally got some time for crafting. Here's some work in progress.

    First I drilled out the old brass rivets and took off the old handle. Real coarse sandpaper all over the tang to clean it up and rough it up for epoxying.

    Drilled a bigger hole for the 1/4" mosaic bling pin. I only used one pin because 1) it draws more attention 2) The second hole I tried to drill actually had much harder metal than my drill bits, even the special cobalt one i bought... shhh it's intentional

    Fit it all together with the pin in to make sure it all lined up. Traced and rough cut the stuff: Scales, white spacer, green spacer. Roughed up all surfaces with a box cutter (sand paper wasn't enough for the liner material). Epoxied it altogether with G Flex epoxy, a boating epoxy that is okay with moisture and flexing without cracking. Next comes the final shaping of the handle Then finishing and oils and wax.

    If you like big blocky handles, it's actually not bad right now


    It's my first western handle so I was overly cautious and cut the scales too big. Next time i'll cut them smaller and this will go a lot faster.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2015
  6. millionsknives

    millionsknives

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    Last edited: May 30, 2015
  7. millionsknives

    millionsknives

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    Hey! This is starting to look like a knife or something.  Pretty comfortable, tapered inwards so the front is narrower.  I think I'm about done shaping it.  Just need to sand it by hand with increasing grits then finish it (and thin and sharpen and etch and...)



    Kind of want to make it more round, but also I'm thinking I should quit while I'm ahead.  I didn't enjoy this project so much.  Basically shaping the thing freehand is nerve wracking.  If I get another vintage knife it'll be a wa handle conversion.  Sorry I'm not sorry.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2015
  8. rick alan

    rick alan

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    Dremel-sized fine rubberized abrasive drums/wheels, such as you can get online at WT Tool, will give you greater control and take away the stress.  They can be easily shaped also as they wear rather rather quickly if used roughly.

    I can't insert pictures from my computer here but the shaping I did to the Rosewood handle here:

    http://www.cheftalk.com/t/81804/victorinox-forschner-as-starter-knives

    was done with a fine Dremel sanding drum, still it was too rough and removed material too fast ( and I should have used some tape to protect the blade). 

    Look closely and you'll see that the complex radius at the front is not completely fair, but I could have done a much better job if I had switched to the fine abrasives after initial roughing.

    You can also make fine sanding blocks out of skinny sticks, shaped any way efficacious for a particular task, to do finish-shaping work, using double-sided transfer tape or spray adhesive, etc, to mount the sandpaper.  Kind of a like gross approximation of jeweler's files.  You can use 80 grit paper here for shaping, it's not as though your abrasive is moving at hundreds or thousands of feet/min.

    Rick
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2015
  9. millionsknives

    millionsknives

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    It's mostly good now.  I'll try to round it out a bit more with 60 grit paper by hand as I'm finishing.
     
  10. millionsknives

    millionsknives

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    whoomp! there it is

     
  11. brianshaw

    brianshaw

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    OMG... I'm in love!
     
  12. millionsknives

    millionsknives

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    Just wait until I thin, sharpen, and etch it!   Turned out pretty good considering I haven't touched any woodcrafting stuff since shop class in highschool.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2015
  13. brianshaw

    brianshaw

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    I thought you were over lasers. Ha ha. How much are you thinking of thinning? I only think about polishing mine a bit and sharpening. Doing too much to the patina worries me since patina takes a long to rebuild.
     
  14. millionsknives

    millionsknives

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    I do like big heavy knives, but even those need to be thin behind the edge.  Anyway, this one is not for me, it will be a gift.  $80 in parts and I learned a lot from this project.  I want it thin enough to cut carrots easily for the WOW factor.  Based on another one i thinned, the angle changes pretty abruptly half way up where those 'saw blade' pattern start. So thinning kind of works it self out with that set angle. It can kind of become a wide bevel knife.

    If you look at the pictures, it's new old stock, so there's not much patina to talk of anyway.

    On the ones i've polished, patina comes back slow, but so does rust.  I think the whole thing is monosteel (guess 1095 steel).  It's on the less reactive side compared to different carbon cladding on J knives.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2015
  15. rick alan

    rick alan

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    Ahaha, it's never going to be a "wide-bevel gyuto" in the sense that pros think of them.  The Geshin Heiji is a great example of a WB, it tapers out about 6deg inclusive from the edge and you can see what that means in term bevel width and blade thickness.  I think your Forgie with the same bevel would probably amount to around an 1/8", still good for going through carrots though, and allowing some food release.

    I did a solid-model layout a while back and came up with about the 6deg angle for the WB, 4deg looked about right for a midweight, and laser coming in at under 3deg inclusive [from the edge].

    That's a great hunk of would, and coffin shaped handles are my favorite in terms of utility.  Ordinarily I wouldn't think you'd want just epoxy holding the handle, to the steel for everything forward of that rear rivet, though I think it is often done, but I suppose there is at least one good sized hole in the handle to effectively form an "epoxy rivet."

    Rick
     
  16. brianshaw

    brianshaw

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    Back in my distant youth I built a couple of knives and always drilled a hole for an "epoxy rivet" if not using real rivets. I'd rather do that than risk epoxy failure by trying to glue to just steel, but honestly I never tried that so maybe it's just neurotic worry on my part.
     
  17. rick alan

    rick alan

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    The other thing is to use minimal clamp force.  Epoxy needs .005" thickness for maximum strength, and then there is the epoxy that the wood soaks up.  In the case of stabilized/impregnated woods the latter is, of course, a non-issue.  In gluing wood a small amount of fiber fill is often used to create a reliable gap, on hard materials an appropriately coarse mineral fill.

    There are also antioxidant coatings, particularly for aluminum bonding, not positive but I believe there is also something for carbon steel.

    Stainless is another story.  It has a comparatively week bond with epoxy, no additional surface treatments I know of to fix this, so the joint requires more surface area.  So a full compliment of rivets may be called for here.

    Rick
     
  18. brianshaw

    brianshaw

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    What's the deal with Gorilla Glue. Looking at a knife supply website I was surprised to see that listed with epoxy. I used GG once on an outdoor project. It expanded and oozed at the seem but held quite good holding wood to wood. What's the application in knife making?
     
  19. millionsknives

    millionsknives

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    I wish I knew this before!  I clamped it pretty hard.
     
  20. brianshaw

    brianshaw

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    Don't worry too much. You have a couple of epoxy rivets don't you?