Chef's Choice or minosharp sharpener for 70/30 bevel?

Discussion in 'Cooking Knife Reviews' started by john br, Jun 23, 2016.

  1. john br

    john br

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    Hello,

    I'm willing to buy a 210 Gyuto Fujiwara FKM, they seem to be good for the price. 

    As i'm lazy and have no particular skill with stone, I wonder if we can sharpen 70/30 knife with hand sharpener like Chef's Choice or minosharp.

    I have tried wetstone on my cheap knives a few times, and it took me decades to get a cutting edge with a poor and unpredictable result.

    I read on another post that it might be alright to only use slightly the third stage of CC before using.

    So you guys what do you think about sharpening 70/30 bevel with those sharpener?

    Thanks !
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2016
  2. foody518

    foody518

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    I don't know of a way where you won't more or less erase an asymmetric bevel with a pull through.
     
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  3. john br

    john br

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    I would add that i don't need razor cut.
    My feeling is that even with a wet stone it would end by destroying 70/30 bevel.
     
  4. john br

    john br

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    yes , but more or less at the end?
     
  5. benuser

    benuser

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    Putting a strictly symmetric edge on an essentially asymmetric blade will work for one or two sharpening sessions. After that, expect heavy steering and wedging. Better start sharpening the right side fairly behind the edge and follow its convexity. Put a straight bevel at a much higher angle on the left side to balance friction.
     
  6. mike9

    mike9

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    You need to fix this part right away.  Then we can talk sharpening.
     
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  7. john br

    john br

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    OK you got me. I just bought a naniwa specialty stone 1000 and i'm gonna train sharpening on my Ikea chef's knife. Any advice to keep 70/30 with a stone?
     
  8. john br

    john br

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  9. benuser

    benuser

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    When sharpening a kitchen knife, you want to restore a previous configuration that has worn out. The new edge will be very slightly nearer to the spine, it has moved to a thicker part of the blade. See the distal taper: the spine is 2-4mm thick, and right behind the edge some 0.2mm

    I start at one side behind the edge, at the lowest angle I'm comfortable with. When raising the spine and increasing the angle little by little, you get nearer to the edge.
    Verify by looking at the scratch pattern.
    Go on until you've raised a burr on the other side.
    Repeat on the other side. Start again behind the edge, go on and raise a burr.
    This will work with any edge as long as you're fine with the previous configuration.
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2016