There were, and still are, great restaurants all over Europe, but the greater part of Blue Trout and Black Truffles is devoted to the eating-places and vineyards of France. It is a vicarious experience less enjoyable only than the real thing to read in the pages of this book of the culinary wonders of the notable establishments that have become the last epicurean haven in this materialistic, mechanized world of fast-food chains and frozen-food dinners. Mr. Wechsberg practiced the art of dining and wining in the greatest of Europe's gastronomic sancta sanctora and proved himself a master. He reaches back to the twilight days of the Habsburg monarchy, when those splendid monuments to the haute cuisine in central Europe, Meissl and Schadn of Vienna and Gundel's of Budapest, were in their prime. At Meissl and Schadn twenty-four varieties of boiled beef could be ordered, and in Vienna a person who couldn't talk learnedly about at least a dozen different cuts of boiled beef was "beyond the pale"-no matter what titles had been conferred on him by the Kaiser. Almost every chapter in this heart-and-stomach-warming book takes the reader to a place that is worth a special journey-a place where he can savor the great art of graceful living.