Progressive Ideas (A Restaurant Review)

By kuan, Dec 22, 2015 | |
  1. Do we need more pictures of food from Travail?   Why not? I don't quite remember what everything was as there was just too much to remember.

    Oysters and Tapioca Pearl pudding, chive oil.  Lemon gelee garnished with a Nasturtium leaf, cauliflower puree and salmon roe.  


    Hamachi and lemon "taco."  Panacotta with prune glaze and candied hazelnut.  Summer sausage with deviled eggs.  Tomatoes with parsley oil and soy glaze.  Compressed watermelon.


    Does this count as a course or is it an amuse bouche?  Fried chicken skin with more watermelon.  


    Herb tortellini with a foie gras filling.  (I don't know how to characterize the filling, but it was good)  Radish, pickled watermelon, prosciutto, and it was finished with a shaved frozen torchon of foie gras.  Those are the specs on the plate.  Strangely, they wouldn't leave the torchon at the table for those who felt they needed more, uh, "parmesan."  It was worth a try though.



    The fish course.  Sous vide Artic Char, chervil oil, carrot foam, sliced jalapeno, a block of carrot, tom yum "aioli," and crispy fish skin.


    Asparagus w/ some kind of aioli, sous vide egg yolk, black garlic puree.  Parmesan cream, black truffle, egg white, maple vinegar croutons.  This was served with a pork dumpling inside a shooter glass with ponzu broth.  Nope, don't have a picture of that.  I ate it and it was delicious.


    Here's more chicken, cooked sous vide.  A wonderful presentation.


    Intermezzo.  Passion fruit dipping dots.  Created on the fly with liquid nitrogen.


    So they brought us out this plate and I thought, well, corn ten ways.  :)
    Close up of all the corn.  I see popcorn, a corn custard, a corn crust, and a few other ways.  I did not examine every corn preparation.


    And then they put this piece of medium rare smoked brisket on the plate.  You might think medium rare smoked brisket is an oxymoron but this can be achieved sous vide.  Wonderful melt in your mouth texture.


    Close up of the custard.  Not curdled, but texture hinting at a bit much whisk?  ;)  (damn, I dared to critique Travail.  Correct me if I'm wrong)


    There were maybe a couple of courses before dessert.  But I would like to be slightly long winded about dessert.  IMO dessert at Travail was always lacking in true pastry technique.  Today's dessert platter shows that they've definitely ironed it out.  My favorite was the caramel apple with cashew and that frothy concocotion in the cup.  I'm not sure what it was but it was quite refreshing.



    So there it is.  A few more pictures from Travail and a short description of what to expect.  If it seems complicated, it is, but at $110 for tasting menu for two, the freedom to eat in flip flops, it's worth the trip.  Need details?  Check out their Facebook page.

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