# December Cooking Challenge 2019 -- Cured Meats



## chrislehrer (Oct 9, 2008)

As the winter set in and the days got shorter, many of our ancestors were finishing up (or had finished) laying in stocks for the long, cold months. And around the world, people found clever ways to preserve their harvests, including some truly amazing ways to preserve meats.

*December 2019's Challenge Is… Cured Meat!*

Sausage, ham, rillettes, pâté, terrine, gravlax-call it what you will. Any kind of meat (including fish) is acceptable. You may cure your own, or you may showcase someone else's curing work in your final preparation. I realize that you probably can't both cure and serve in one month, unless it's something very small, so some leeway is allowed for those who cure.

Meats may be dry-cured or wet, smoked or not, ground, stuffed, sliced, you name it.

Final entries will gain points in part based on showing us what you did, whether that's a curing process or one of transforming a cured product into a final, plated dish (or both).

And don't be shy: a really well-executed sausage-on-a-bun is a thing of beauty!

*The Rules*

The challenge begins on the 1st of every month. The last entry must be made by the last day of the month.
You may post multiple entries.
All entries must be cooked during the month of the challenge.
If you use a documented recipe, please cite your source.
Entries should include the name of your dish and a picture of the final product. Sharing personal recipes and pictures of the process are not mandatory but extremely helpful.
The winner is chosen by the person who posted the challenge, and is announced after the last day of submissions. The decision is final and falls entirely at the discretion of the challenger.
Submitting an entry makes you eligible to win. If you do not wish to be considered for the win you may still participate in the challenge, but make your wishes known to the challenger.
The winner's bounty includes praise, virtual high-fives, and the responsibility of posting the next month's challenge. That entails choosing a theme, posting a Challenge thread that includes the guidelines, checking in on the submissions regularly during the month, and promptly choosing a winner at the end of the challenge.


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## butzy (Jan 8, 2010)

I'll have to put on my thinking cap for this one.
I'm in the process of breaking up/moving my place, so most of my stuff is packed or being packed, but I think I still have a gammon (bought) and a piece of szechuan streaky bacon (home cured) in the freezer.
I should be able to do something


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## chrislehrer (Oct 9, 2008)

butzy said:


> a piece of szechuan streaky bacon (home cured) in the freezer.


I'm drooling already. Three things to love: (1) Home-cured (2) Sichuan (3) streaky bacon. I really hope you find the time to make something with that, because I want to see it (and imagine eating it)!


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## french fries (Sep 5, 2008)

Hmmm I already ate all the sausages, saucissons, caillettes and boudin I made from my own pigs.










Still have a bag of the sheep sausage I made earlier this year (a friend of mine had bought sheep to handle the lawn mowing duties on the land he'd borrowed for his organic chicken farm and later gave up so we turned all the sheep into sausage).

I have more photos I could share but I'm worried they may be a bit too gory for a food forum.


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## teamfat (Nov 5, 2007)

Nice! I feel bad that I did not do anything for the last challenge, hope to get something in for this one.

mjb.


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## fatcook (Apr 25, 2017)

FF - nice pictures! People should know and understand where their food really comes from. That view, mixer, and set up are drool worthy.

We just bought pork chops from a farmer up the road because we are out of our own. I think we still have some ground pork to make sausages though, I need to check.


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## chrislehrer (Oct 9, 2008)

I absolutely agree, @fatcook : people should know where their food comes from and be ethically comfortable with the procedures, even if they don't do it themselves. That's actually one of the reasons I like this challenge: if you're at all serious about cured meat, even if you just eat it, you pretty much have to know where it comes from. And if you cure it yourself, you're going to be something of an expert!


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## mike9 (Jul 13, 2012)

I've been putting off making sausage long enough. It looks like I'll have to bit the bullet this month. I have goose breast and venison in the freezer. When pork shoulder goes on sale I'll make a batch of kielbasa.


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## butzy (Jan 8, 2010)

And now for the laziest entry








Bought green olive fuet with bought bread.
I did the toasting all by myself though


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## loomchick (Jun 11, 2013)

"I did the toasting all by myself though"

Inspiring! I knew I came to Chef Talk for a reason.


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## kokopuffs (Aug 4, 2000)

I need to learn how to toast bread, Butzy. And I like Iberico stuff. Also checkout an eastern European website called FABKO: https://fabko.com/


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## butzy (Jan 8, 2010)

If nobody posts anything soon I am going to showcase my salami/cheese toasted sandwich 
Please don't make me do this...

Come on all, where is the choucroute garnie? The bacon? The smoked sausages, the quiche lorraine...?
Surely something gotta be cooking (curing)?


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## chefross (May 5, 2010)

Chris: 
Is the challenge about MAKING cured something or about COOKING with something cured?????


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## butzy (Jan 8, 2010)

I read it as both....
"You may cure your own, or you may showcase someone else's curing work in your final preparation."

Obviously, @chrislehrer has the final say


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## morning glory (May 28, 2015)

chrislehrer said:


> gravlax


I just noticed you mentioned gravlax in the intro. So... my question is, does the challenge include fish as well as meat? I'm assuming so. The great thing about curing fish is that its a relatively fast process; easily done within a few days.


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## french fries (Sep 5, 2008)

morning glory said:


> my question is, does the challenge include fish as well as meat?


Indeed:



chrislehrer said:


> Any kind of meat (including fish) is acceptable.


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## mike9 (Jul 13, 2012)

Not my cured products, but with it being soup and stew season I made a favorite - Squid and Chorizo Stew. Onion, garlic (lots), fresh tomatoes, tomato paste, white wine, squid tubes, Spanish chorizo, small potatoes. & {because I can) some wild boar and venison sausage.

The recipe came from Raymond Blanc's Slow Cooking series and I've been making it for a several years now. This dish is all about texture - from the onions (large pieces) to the sausage to the squid. The squid develops a flavor and texture unlike flash fried calamari. I really like it better this slow cooked version.


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## morning glory (May 28, 2015)

french fries said:


> Indeed:


Sorry - I'm was not paying attention. I believe that in culinary terms meat is usually (or at least quite often) referring to the flesh of mammals and birds so I simply assumed it wasn't included.

I was also surprised (but pleased!) to see terrines and pâté included. I don't regard those as 'cured' - which I think means, to preserve by salting, drying or smoking.

But anyway - I now have a few ideas.


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## ChefBryan (Nov 10, 2017)

Just did this as a special this morning. I don't have pics of the process, but the cured item on here is Finocchiona, fennel infused salami from Tuscany. It is a play on eggs bene. Squashbrowns - Spaghetti squash, roasted fennel, garlic and parmesan, grilled and topped with Finocchiona, and egg over easy, a rosemary infused white bean hollandaise, and a roasted red pepper agro dolce. Garnished with green onions and a parmesan crisp.


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## french fries (Sep 5, 2008)

ChefBryan said:


> View attachment 67256
> 
> 
> Just did this as a special this morning. I don't have pics of the process, but the cured item on here is Finocchiona, fennel infused salami from Tuscany. It is a play on eggs bene. Squashbrowns - Spaghetti squash, roasted fennel, garlic and parmesan, grilled and topped with Finocchiona, and egg over easy, a rosemary infused white bean hollandaise, and a roasted red pepper agro dolce. Garnished with green onions and a parmesan crisp.


That looks good and very creative! I would order that in a heartbeat.


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## ChefBryan (Nov 10, 2017)

french fries said:


> That looks good and very creative! I would order that in a heartbeat.


Thank you. It was only $2.50. At that price you can't go wrong!


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## morning glory (May 28, 2015)

ChefBryan said:


> View attachment 67256
> 
> 
> Just did this as a special this morning. I don't have pics of the process, but the cured item on here is Finocchiona, fennel infused salami from Tuscany. It is a play on eggs bene. Squashbrowns - Spaghetti squash, roasted fennel, garlic and parmesan, grilled and topped with Finocchiona, and egg over easy, a rosemary infused white bean hollandaise, and a roasted red pepper agro dolce. Garnished with green onions and a parmesan crisp.


I'd order that any day. Lovely!


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## french fries (Sep 5, 2008)

@ChefBryan where can I find your restaurant!! I only wish I could find some restaurants that are that creative and reasonably priced.


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## ChefBryan (Nov 10, 2017)

french fries said:


> @ChefBryan where can I find your restaurant!! I only wish I could find some restaurants that are that creative and reasonably priced.


I actually work for a hospital. That's why everything is so affordable. We don't have to mark things up 3 or 4 times to cover food cost and labor. We do a 1 - 1.5x mark up. Food and labor are covered under budgets and not measured by %. We also get special pricing and don't pay tax, so that helps keep costs down. We are part of a large buying group. I compared my prices once to a local restaurant, and on many items I pay 1/2 or 1/3 of what they do.


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## french fries (Sep 5, 2008)

ChefBryan said:


> I actually work for a hospital. That's why everything is so affordable. We don't have to mark things up 3 or 4 times to cover food cost and labor. We do a 1 - 1.5x mark up. Food and labor are covered under budgets and not measured by %. We also get special pricing and don't pay tax, so that helps keep costs down. We are part of a large buying group. I compared my prices once to a local restaurant, and on many items I pay 1/2 or 1/3 of what they do.


Well lucky patients. Here in France hospital food is not nearly as good or creative as airline food.


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## morning glory (May 28, 2015)

ChefBryan said:


> I actually work for a hospital. That's why everything is so affordable. We don't have to mark things up 3 or 4 times to cover food cost and labor. We do a 1 - 1.5x mark up. Food and labor are covered under budgets and not measured by %. We also get special pricing and don't pay tax, so that helps keep costs down. We are part of a large buying group. I compared my prices once to a local restaurant, and on many items I pay 1/2 or 1/3 of what they do.


I'm even more impressed that this sort of food is served in a hospital. Lucky patients!


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## morning glory (May 28, 2015)

Any chance the featured threads could feature this December Challenge? The November Challenge for Thanksgiving is still being featured...


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## chrislehrer (Oct 9, 2008)

Nobody curing stuff? I guess December is an awfully busy month....


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## chrislehrer (Oct 9, 2008)

And yes, to all the questions: cure your own or use someone else's product. Fish is included. Pretty much all charcuterie is what I had in mind, so yes, pâtés and terrines and galantines etc.


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## french fries (Sep 5, 2008)

I had planned on trying to make gravlax for Xmas eve but I can't get my wife excited about the idea.


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## morning glory (May 28, 2015)

french fries said:


> I had planned on trying to make gravlax for Xmas eve but I can't get my wife excited about the idea.


I have some planned too - I'm just waiting for a key ingredient to be delivered.


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## ChefBryan (Nov 10, 2017)

french fries said:


> I had planned on trying to make gravlax for Xmas eve but I can't get my wife excited about the idea.


Sounds like that means there will be more for you then...


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## mike9 (Jul 13, 2012)

I had every ingredient I needed to make Ghicken Gumbo including Gaspar's Andouille and being a rainy day gumbo was the perfect dish.

Half way through a "two beer" roux









Everybody is in the pot just added my okra and letting it reduce









Served over some Basmati brown rice cooked in stock, garlic and parsley









Gaspar's is a little spicier than D'Artagnon and is a very good product IMO. The okra is frozen and the chicken was from a leftover spatchcocked from the other night. I rendered the skin in drippings for my roux and added some schmaltz to fill out the fat requirement + the saved pan fond from the chicken as well. What a flavor burst!!


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## morning glory (May 28, 2015)

mike9 said:


> I had every ingredient I needed to make Ghicken Gumbo including Gaspar's Andouille and being a rainy day gumbo was the perfect dish.
> 
> Half way through a "two beer" roux
> 
> ...


Did you mean this to be in the challenge thread? As it happens I've been learning to cook Gumbo and have made three this month - seafood, chicken and gumbo z'herbes. I'd be happy to see a Gumbo thread but I'm not sure they qualify as cured meats, charcuterie etc.


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## fatcook (Apr 25, 2017)

The Andouille is a sausage, so that should count?


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## morning glory (May 28, 2015)

fatcook said:


> The Andouille is a sausage, so that should count?


Hey! Good point. I'm obviously not paying attention. Sorry....


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## chrislehrer (Oct 9, 2008)

Andouille works for me!


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## koukouvagia (Apr 3, 2008)

I will post an entry
I will post an entry 
i will post an entry
....


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## chrislehrer (Oct 9, 2008)

koukouvagia said:


> I will post an entry
> I will post an entry
> i will post an entry
> ....


I hope so
I hope so
I hope so


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## butzy (Jan 8, 2010)

I am posting an entry 

I used my bacon that was made a while ago. I found a piece in the freezer, took it out and let it sit (wrapped in tea towel) in the fridge for a bit to dry out somewhat.

This bacon was roughly based on the recipe here: https://honest-food.net/sichuan-bacon/
I cold smoked with beech in the proQ cold smoke generator (old pics)














So, yesterday I decided to cook with it and to keep it more or less szechuan style (or however you want to spell it)

I used black beans (taotjo) and black bean paste, chili, garlic, leek, and glutinous black rice wine (no idea what that normally is used for, but I had a bottle. Think I thought it was shaoxing rice wine when I bought it). And I used my bacon, off course














Fried the bacon









Added the other ingredients, first the leek, then garlic and chili's, then the sauces









And served with rice.
The rice is yellow, more for photographic purposes than anything else. I seem to be unable to make a picture with white rice that is not over-exposed.









It was definitely tasty!
I had a bit of left-over that I made into fried rice with a couple of fried eggs and that was tasty as well


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## teamfat (Nov 5, 2007)

Nice, Butzy. I've used that szechuan bacon recipe a couple of times. When you fry it up, it smells like breakfast in a Chinese restaurant.

I've got two entries in the works, one should be done soon, the other still over a week away.

mjb


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## morning glory (May 28, 2015)

Salmon is curing... so an entry from me in the next few days.


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## chrislehrer (Oct 9, 2008)

Getting down to the wire here. Apparently cured meat isn't firing people's imaginations!


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## mike9 (Jul 13, 2012)

Oh it's firing mine, but time and fridge space is putting damper on the process. Still got a week to go so now that Christmas is behind me it's time to get crackin'.


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## teamfat (Nov 5, 2007)

I didn't get the one project posted before Christmas, later today or tomorrow. The second project is almost done in the curing brine, hopefully will get a nice day to throw it in the smoker soon.

mjb.


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## chrislehrer (Oct 9, 2008)

Excellent! I'm excited to see the results.


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## morning glory (May 28, 2015)

chrislehrer said:


> Getting down to the wire here. Apparently cured meat isn't firing people's imaginations!


My gravadlax photos are in post-production here and I'll post them up soon!

Its the holiday season and entries often drop off as folk are busy with family, travelling etc. I don't think there is an issue with your choice of theme.


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## mike9 (Jul 13, 2012)

I did a riff on *"Bigos"* - Polish Hunter's Stew. Instead of pork stew meat I used ham, and the traditional smoked kielbasa. The rest was close to recipe with the exception of the ham and ham stock in place of beef stock and dry vermouth in place of red wine. The rest of the line up are: onion, carrot, garlic, cabbage, sauerkraut, mushrooms, tomato paste, diced tomatoes and seasoning. It's a rich and hardy dish that needs a hot, crusty bread for sopping up the goodness that is Bigos. In this case roasted garlic ciabatta with compound butter. So for the "cured" part we have Ham, Kielbasa and a garlic/dill Sauerkraut.









*







*


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## butzy (Jan 8, 2010)

Ham here as well...
Prepared in a, for me, totally new way

Here's the star:









Lined an oven tray with onions 








Put the gammon on top and added the other ingredients: red wine, paprika, smoked paprika, garlic, chili-vodka














Placed covered in a hot oven and reduced the temperature after about 20 minutes or so.
The result:









Then took of the net and rind and browned the top









Sliced:









I had boiled some rice and had the ham with the onion-red wine concoction.
It turned our incredibly tasty and I am definitely going to prepare my ham more often this way


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## phatch (Mar 29, 2002)

I just brought bacon in off the smoker.








Those are the fatty sides up in about 1.3 pound slabs








And some smoked cheese finishing its rest. There a lot more cheese than just that. These will be some belated gifts and some left for us too.


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## mike9 (Jul 13, 2012)

Alrighty then we've come down to it. Last week I thawed a large bag of goose breasts and a front haunch of venison. After trimming away fat, shot damage and silver skin I ended up with 3 pounds of goose and 3 pounds of venison. I bought an 8 pound pork shoulder (trimmed out 3 lbs.) and 1.8 lbs. of smoked bacon ends (used 1 lb.). I had the luxury of help from my 10 yr. old granddaughter both yesterday and today. So a total of 10 pounds of mixed meats, 3/4 pound of Panko bread crumbs, one pound of local stout + 1/2 pound of cold water.









We ran the meat thought the grinder one time - this girl is game on I tell ya.

















Next we mixed seasoning - salt, pepper, sugar, marjoram, smoked paprika, sage, pink cure #1 and 7 cloves of crushed garlic then seasoned the meat and back into the freezer. When it came out I mixed in my panko/stout mix and ran it through the grinder again. then put it in the ice box overnight. Oh and I made test patties for dinner - delicious! Before turning in I soaked my casings in two changes of cold water overnight.

This morning I assembled my stuffer and chilled all the contact parts. I added apple juice to one bowl of grind as it had tightened up overnight and to the other I added local rye IPA and some of my buddy's hot "pixie dust". I also put my casings in warm water to relax and before stuffing ran water through them to rinse and get the kinks out. All went fairly well with only one break which we dealt with. The result is what you see + 3 lbs. of bulk for patties, burgers, etc.









I assembled a new smoker this afternoon and will smoke these tomorrow to maybe 150 F IT, then into a hot water bath to finish at 165 F then into a cold water bath to set them and let bloom. I'll get a pic of the finished product if all goes well and the creek don't rise. Otherwise these are ready to cook and eat, or freeze for future use. Being cured they will keep for up to a week in their fresh state.

I didn't want to start a new post so . . . I smoked my sausage today with pecan, cherry and some hickory. It went to 180 F IT then I quenched it in several changes of cold water then hung it for 3 hrs. to "bloom". It's in the icebox now and I'll wrap it up maybe tomorrow, maybe Thursday - who knows. Tasted really good today and I know it will taste better after the bloom and overnight rest. 









Blooming after coming out of the smoker and a cold water quench.


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## teamfat (Nov 5, 2007)

Finally getting one entry posted. And I plan for the pastrami before the deadline I hope. But here is some cured tuna, in a surf and turf tataki style. I didn't get that many pictures, will forego my usual players/process/product format.

First, some sushi grade tuna was rubbed with lemon, lightly salted and sprinkled with sake. It was then wrapped in some softed kombu.



















After about 30 hours in the fridge, it looked slightly different.










Though no real change in appearance it definitely had a noticeable seaweed, ocean breeze flavor to it. I got a New York strip steak, and cut a stick of tuna and a matching stick of the beef.










Tuna was rubbed with a mix of plain and chili infused sesame oil, then rolled in chopped fresh cilantro. The steak got plain sesame oil, salt and pepper. Tuna seared in a HOT cast iron skillet about 15 seconds a side, beef about 20 seconds.










Once the meat rested a bit, it was sliced and plated atop some thinly sliced red onion. Garnishes are some radish slices pickled in a rice wine, sake and salt mix, store bought seaweed salad, flying fish roe, all drizzled with a few dashed of chili sesame oil and ponzu.










I actually got out some pickled mustard seeds and made some scallion curls, but they didn't hit the plate before I took the picture. But not a problem, because just as you see it here it was a VERY tasty plate. Some of the best bites I've had in a while.

Now on to getting that pastrami done before the deadline....

mjb.


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## morning glory (May 28, 2015)

Finally - my entry. Liquorice & Beetroot Gravadlax.

I used a standard curing mix of 50% sugar/salt and added raw grated beetroot. The liquorice paste which was spread on the flesh sides of the salmon fillet pieces before adding a generous layer of salt/sugar/beetroot mix. Then the salmon pieces were tightly wrapped, placed in a dish with weights on top and left for 3 days.

The liquorice paste:









Salmon fillets after curing:










I served it for several starters - here with potato salad, dill sauce and finger lime caviar:










Here with potato salad, balsamic reduction, pickled radishes, finger lime caviar and parsley oil:


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## teamfat (Nov 5, 2007)

Finally got around to doing something I've been meaning to try. Pastrami from scratch.

*The Players*










A 4 pound slab of beef brisket, from the flat.

*The Process*

I made a brine with kosher salt, raw sugar, pickling spices ( canned mix ) and cure #1.










The beef sat in the brine in the back of the fridge for 11 days. It had definitely firmed up when I took it out. I rinsed it off, let it sit in fresh water for a few hours to get rid of excess salt. Rinsed again, and set out on a rack to dry.

Meanwhile I toasted some black peppercorns and coriander seeds. A favorite way to make the kitchen smell so heavenly.










The toasted spices went into the grinder, the were mixed with some smoked paprika. I gave the brisket a light rub of mustard, then applied a heavy coat of the pepper mix. I took the quickest route in order to get this done today, and cooked it in the oven. I put some small bowls in a roasting pan, put the brisket on a plate and set it atop the bowls. Added a quart or two of water, sealed the top with foil. It went into a 300F oven for 4 hours.

*The Product*

I've mentioned before that there is a artisanal butcher shop a block to the south of me. They produce some of the best pastrami I've ever tasted. With this batch I made, I can safely say they don't need to worry about me stealing their business.



















My oven roasted pastrami turned out very nice, quite tasty. Not as good as Beltex, but with a bit of practice and done in the smoker, I'm guessing I could get pretty close. Maybe soon I'll tackle this again, using a full 10 - 14 pound packer cut. But for now, I think I'll have another slice of this one, with a bit of horseradish on the side.

mjb.


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## mike9 (Jul 13, 2012)

Ha ha - looks like @chrislehrer has some work to do :lol:


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## teamfat (Nov 5, 2007)

Indeed. Having hosted a few of these challenges I know how difficult it can be picking the best one based on just words and pictures. If only the various submissions could be tasted, but that might make it even more difficult.

Not a massive amount of entries, but certainly some good ones, could be hard to choose.

mjb.


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## butzy (Jan 8, 2010)

Some very nice last minute entries 
Good luck Chris!

I should have made biltong.....


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## chrislehrer (Oct 9, 2008)

Just finished a very, very long drive home: 5 hours that should have been 3. Ugh. 

I'll post a winner ASAP. Lovely stuff!!


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## chrislehrer (Oct 9, 2008)

After what seemed like a slow start, this competition really heated up. The last four entries in particular were amazing, and for me defined the field:

@mike9 's goose-venison sausages

@teamfat 's cured tuna tataki

@morning glory 's liquorice and beetroot gravadlax

@teamfat 's pastrami

In addition, I wanted to call attention to @butzy 's Sichuan bacon and @ChefBryan 's fascinating and beautiful "squashbrown" egg dish. Some remarkable stuff!

As always, it's very difficult to pick.

@mike9 had the best "process" demonstration (and the best-looking sous chef). 
@morning glory presented that gravadlax amazingly: those plates were simply gorgeous.

But the plate of tuna tataki was stunning, and pastrami from scratch (with excellent step-by-step photos) on top of that!-it's just very, very impressive.

So, after much agonizing, I'm handing the winner of December 2019's cooking challenge *to @teamfat*


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## mike9 (Jul 13, 2012)

Congrats to @teamfat !!!!!

Yeah this past week was a blizzard of entries and nothing shabby - the most impressive in a while IMO. Sadly is seems the old "Challenge" ain't what it used to be.


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## teamfat (Nov 5, 2007)

Wow, thanks! As I've mentioned before, I try to make use of these challenges to try something new. And both the tuna and pastrami were first time efforts for me. I've done the tuna tataki before, but the kombu curing added a new dimension to it. And I don't want to sound too cocky, but the pastrami turned out better than I thought a first attempt might. Perhaps it will inspire some others to give it a try.

I already have an idea for the next challenge, will get it posted soon.

mjb.


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## butzy (Jan 8, 2010)

Congratulation @teamfat .
Some incredible dishes.
I actually think we should now decide that the theme for August or so is also "cured dishes", so we can all start making bacon, ham etc etc now


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## teamfat (Nov 5, 2007)

Indeed. A charcuterie challenge could be fun, but were talking months and months of curing and drying time for some things.

I'd just like to see some new faces jumping in to the regular challenges, rather than just the usual diehards that participate these days.

mjb.


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## fatcook (Apr 25, 2017)

Congratulations Teamfat! Well deserved.

Hopefully the slowness this month was partly due to the busyness of this month - I know I've only ever made one entry (though I often intend to and run out of time) but December so just so slammed, I honestly never even had an idea that seemed doable due to other commitments.


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