# Konosuke HD not holding an edge.. Ideas please.



## fish boy (Aug 31, 2011)

Have been sharpening my Konosuke HD with a recently purchased EdgePro with chosera stones.  Did the sharpie angle finding technique to find the factory angle the first time and subsequent times.  

The angle fell between 18* and 20*.  Finish each sharpening session w/10K and feel or see (with magnification) no burr at all.

Razor sharp, fantastic edge.    After a few hours of home cooking use (read: not whacking the hell out of it or using it for days on end)  I feel a burr and take it to the ceramic hone.

I can't seem to get rid of the burr (or align it on the honing rod) after that.  It's by no means razor sharp after just a few hours of use.

Is the sharpening angle to acute?  I'm very deliberate on the hone.....not pressing too hard or clanking it against it at the start of the stroke.

Ideas please.  Thanks,

MB


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## chinacats (Feb 4, 2012)

> Originally Posted by *Fish Boy*
> 
> The angle fell between 18* and 20*. Finish each sharpening session w/10K and feel or see (with magnification) no burr at all.
> 
> Razor sharp, fantastic edge. After a few hours of home cooking use (read: not whacking the hell out of it or using it for days on end) I feel a burr and take it to the ceramic hone.


No real help here, but curious if maybe the burr is there, but standing up straight? It would make sense that you feel it after a short time on the board as it would have had a chance to roll over after light use. Just a guess as I have no experience with Kono's or edge pro at all...


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## boar_d_laze (Feb 13, 2008)

Even if 18* is the included angle -- as opposed to the edge angle, and you're talking about a 9* edge angle on each side -- it's not too acute for a Konosuke HD. 

Just guessing, but I think you're probably leaving a wire which then turns into a burr after a little impact on the board. I don't think you'll ever got much joy using a steel with a Konosuke HD unless you use very little pressure and very few strokes. For most people, steeling most lasers will just make things worse -- mostly.

You might want to try "glint testing" the knife after a little use, and after steeling too. If you go form no to lots of glint with very little cutting on the board, infer a wire.

I suggest re-profiling the edge completely to conservative angles and geometry, say a flat 10-12* bevel on each side (10*-12* edge, 20*-24* included) and moderate asymmetry (say 2:1), then VERY thorough deburring including chasing the wire until it flops after each stroke, then passing the edge through a cork or felt block. 

If you need to freshen the edge, try stropping instead of steeling. You don't need absolutely need a loaded strop, a strip of manilla board cut from a file folder will be fine as will newsprint; so, for that matter, will a few passes on a fine or polishing stone.

If the suggest profile and maintenance don't work to the point that your Kono's edge becomes very durable, get back to me immediately and we'll start nailing down what's really happening. If you post and I don't respond within a day, PM me. 

BDL


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## fish boy (Aug 31, 2011)

Thanks BDL for the explanation.

I completely misunderstood the sharpening angle/edge angle/inclusive angle differentiation.  So I guess I profiled the edge, upon my first sharpening, at 36* inclusive, more or less. Double the intended finished angle.  Although that is puzzling too because the first time I sharpened it from the factory edge,  I tested with a sharpie as you and Mark R. suggested???!!!

Anyway, I will set my EPro at its lowest possible setting, 10* to get a 20* inclusive edge angle. (Unless I've completely misunderstood what you said in the previous post)

I barely touch the knife to the Idahone when I use it and do only use two or three (max) passes per side.  But I'll save that for my Sabs and other heftier blades.

I'll do as you suggest, re-profile the edge and get back to you.  Probably won't have time to do that for a week, but I'll repost or PM you with the results.

Thanks again,

MB


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