# Electronic knife Sharpening or by hand which is better?



## emmbai90 (Sep 13, 2012)

I know this has been discussed a lot but i'm wondering as a beginner in knives and sharpening i know nothing about sharpening knives except you sharpen it on the rim flat ways, i would really like to know what value methods i can use to sharpen my knife set, there is one i've been eyeing and it's this one: AnySharp Global World's Best Knife Sharpener (Classic) 
[product="10159"]Anysharp Knife Sharpener [/product]
I've looked at the reviews and people say it's really good to use and i have a flat surface to use it on, and since i have to get into sharpening i would like to know if this is also the best long term thing to use at a value price? i've heard a lot about granite stones too and how well they sharpen knives, there is also this compact little sharpener that people think is great and i love compact items so id definitely love something compact: What do you think of those two? and do you have any to recommend?. Also do you know any handy videos that teaches how to sharpen in different ways?.


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## petemccracken (Sep 18, 2008)

@emmbai90 No and No!

If you absolutely have to use a pull-through sharpener, take a look at http://www.minosharp.jp/

You really should hand sharpen on stones, check out the http://www.cheftalk.com/f/71/cooking-knife-reviews or use the search option for knife sharpening


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## kaneohegirlinaz (Apr 24, 2011)

great advice Pete, @emmbai90, maybe you'd like to try the search bar at the top of the page, Chef Talk has been around for over 13 years and _MANY_ topics have gone around the block several times over. That might be helpful for you?


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## emmbai90 (Sep 13, 2012)

I did look at the others but mostly it's expensive products people mention not much discussion of value products say £15 and under, i'm considering a stone and i found a playlist from one thread for sharpening videos but that's for Japanese knives mines just an Ehos value set and they are really good for the price, great that they come with steak knives and folks as they help when one day i get to putting stuff like steaks and burgers under the oven so i can just fish it out with one of the steak knives 
I'm considering getting a sharpening block and there are cheap ones too but i don't want to mess my knives up ether, they have a nice flat rim though so i imagine they would work well on a stone block? i heard it takes a while though on a block.


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## cheflayne (Aug 21, 2004)

emmbai90 said:


> i heard it takes a while though on a block.


Like anything, with practice a person gets faster. I sharpen my knife once a week on stones. Takes me about two minutes.


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## galley swiller (May 29, 2013)

I agree with Pete McCracken and cheflayne about hand sharpening (though I respectfully disagree about even suggesting the minosharp).

About reviews: I know it sounds good to read the review of users - I do it myself - but I am primarily looking to see how many negative reviews there are and what they have to say about the faults of a product. That will often tell you much more than the positive reviews about the quality of a product.

Manual pull-through sharpeners at best leave an extremely rough edge. That rough edge will initially cut through your food being prepped, but there's a very high cost of wear on the edge of your blade, and a very rough edge is much more prone to dulling. It can be a vicious circle.

First suggestion - get a ceramic honing rod, preferably as long as possible. There are several on Amazon.uk for about 20 to 30 pounds. That will partially slow the dulling process and give you a bit of time before you will need to really sharpen. I would recommend the 12 inch (30cm) Idahone, but I did not find it on the Amazon.uk website. It's possible some other retailer in the UK sells it.

Second, use a good quality wood cutting board, to keep the edge of your knives from dulling faster

Third, read the following post: http://forums.egullet.org/topic/26036-knife-maintenance-and-sharpening/

Fourth, watch on-line videos by Murray Carter, Jon Broida and at the Chef Knives To Go website.

Fifth, search the ChefTalk forums (including the "Cooking Knife Reviews" to see what you can do.

Sixth, get a general, 800 to 1200 grit waterstone (with an absolute minimum face size of 50 mm x 200 mm) and start practicing.

If you can't afford the price of a semi-decent stone, then look up the "Magic Mousepad Sharpening Trick" and practice that trick with some "beater" knife which isn't worth much money (but you are willing to practice with)'

If you REALLY don't have money, watch Murray Carter use a concrete block and some Japanese newspapers to get a knife sharp!

It's not magic, it's not high tech brainlessly simple, it does require persistence in learning - but that skill will be with you the rest of your career.

Galley Swiller


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## chrismit (Nov 18, 2012)

There is no question sharpening by hand is going to give better results than electric or pull through sharpeners. However, everyone doesn't want to sharpen by hand. The reason you don't see many inexpensive pull through sharpeners recommended is because the majority if them are not good ie terrible. The thing about the minosharp is it has a grit progression for some minimal polishing. However, you say you aren't using japanese knives, sounds like you are using cheaper stainless knives. Not familiar with the brand you mentioned but I'm just hazarding a guess. If that's the case you won't get the benefit from something like the minosharp due to sharpening angle and your knives potential inability to handle the polish level. Also the sharpener is likely to cost more than your knife. I would either start with those knives and learn hand sharpening, something like a 500 grit stone and 1-2k stone or try out one of the cheaper sharpeners. Maybe one of the European chef choice machines. However in the event you purchase a japanese style knife the chef choice will no longer serve any purpose If you hand sharpen your knives can likely handle something around a 20deg angle, maybe even more obtuse. If you decide to move into japanese knives you will need to budget something for sharpening.


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## emmbai90 (Sep 13, 2012)

Nice tips here  thanks  i'm definitely on a budget, i got some money from college after a finished my last course, apparently for any coasts i might of encountered during the course but they gave me way more than i actually spent lol but i've probably spent most of it as i bought some things for my room that i needed too then recently £16 on a good pair of chef pants so i've probably got like £95 - £100 left, i will probably come into more money soon once i get into an apprenticeship although i have to save at least £500 to upgrade my PC. I think i already have a steel sharpening stick, i put the amazon link above of my knife set, it's quite a nice set i paid almost £25 for it and i think it's stainless steel yes and has a rivet on them, so not too shabby at all for a starter kit, i think a steel stick is only for honing though it's not going to sharpen my knives. It will only take me a little over 2 months though to save £500 although i might need more but for the rest of the time i'll definitely save for a waterstone and a diamond stone, i think because my dad was in mechanics when he was younger too he could probably show me properly how to sharpen.


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## emmbai90 (Sep 13, 2012)

I found this great video on sharpening and honing sticks, i think i might get a sharpening stick (unless mine is a sharpening stick i'm not sure), it seems a whole lot easier and cheaper than buying a waterstone because then you need something else to keep smoothing down but sticks last ages while stones grind down eventually, my set will definitely need less sharpening too because it's steel and it keeps it's edge longer than other knives, so definitely easier to maintain.


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## petemccracken (Sep 18, 2008)

@emmbai90, hones and "sharpening sticks" (a REAL misnomer!) do not "sharpen" and definitely cannot replace "stones" !

Hones, which include steels, are used to realign the edge, think changing from j to i , stones grind away metal to go from u to v, gigantic difference!


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## cheflayne (Aug 21, 2004)

emmbai90 said:


> I found this great video on sharpening and honing sticks, i think i might get a sharpening stick (unless mine is a sharpening stick i'm not sure), it seems a whole lot easier and cheaper than buying a waterstone because then you need something else to keep smoothing down but sticks last ages while stones grind down eventually


I have had my waterstones for a few years now and they are nowhere near worn out. I use them once a week. I keep them flat with a piece of drywall screen that cost me £1. My last set of stones lasted 25 years and only had to be replaced because they were stolen.

You mentioned being on a budget and I can certainly appreciate that. I dont believe in spending money frivously even if not on a budget. I scrimp on my work clothes, chef pants bought for £6, but not on my tools. It is my view that high priced clothes don't really perform any better than inexpensive clothes. I don't feel the same about tools, plus they will last a lifetime or close to it if properly cared for.

£16 could have bought you a waterstone that would definitely outlive a pair of chef pants. Just something to think about at this stage of your career.


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## dillbert (Jul 2, 2008)

Pete -

"ceramic rods" actually exist in more than one form.

some are intended as straighteners - aka similar/same as a "steel"

others have a more aggressive girt and will in fact aggressively remove metal and "sharpen"

see

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=ceramic+v+sharpeners&qpvt=ceramic+v+sharpeners&FORM=IGRE

confusion absolutely abounds - see the recent post suggesting that for the sharpest edge possible, use a smooth glass rod.

oops. not gonna work anywhey anyway anyhow - but it sounds good to folk who never looked an an edge under 10x mag.

a static V-rod ceramic is really not much different from a pull thru V-notch carbide "sharpener"


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## nicko (Oct 5, 2001)

@emmbai90 here is a piece someone wrote a while back that might help you.
[article="27334"]How To Sharpen A Chefs Knife [/article]


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## lennyd (Dec 3, 2010)

I don't want the OP to think I am avoiding answering his inquiry by suggesting to review the countless great threads and discussions here that detail the pros and cons of the various sharpening methods, but much as sharpening isn't rocket science etc does still require a process of learning no matter if your going to use stones free hand or any one of the many jigs or electrics, and to be totally honest it is common for us all to have more questions after gaining a little knowledge and then you will have better questions and therefore answers that are more suited to your needs.

Keep in mind that similar to how good knives are not cheap getting the proper equipment to get a good edge isn't either,

Same applies to the ways one can gain the skills to get good results on stones. It just doesn't come easy or inexpensive.

To over simplify think of it as cheap knife = cheap sharpener and expensive knife = expensive sharpening kit etc


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## emmbai90 (Sep 13, 2012)

cheflayne said:


> £16 could have bought you a waterstone that would definitely outlive a pair of chef pants. Just something to think about at this stage of your career.


They are a pair of those new smart fitting pants with the draw string but the other cheaper pairs are really tight and small and i'm a big person, £16 is a bargain for them as they are mostly selling at £32 - £36.



Dillbert said:


> confusion absolutely abounds - see the recent post suggesting that for the sharpest edge possible, use a smooth glass rod.
> 
> oops. not gonna work anywhey anyway anyhow - but it sounds good to folk who never looked an an edge under 10x mag.
> 
> a static V-rod ceramic is really not much different from a pull thru V-notch carbide "sharpener"


it does help though a bit to make sure your edge is competely straight, i've been looking at angles of sharpening and if you get the angle slightly off then you can use a stick and it straighten it up again and it helps in the worst case where you round it too much.


LennyD said:


> .
> Keep in mind that similar to how good knives are not cheap getting the proper equipment to get a good edge isn't either,
> 
> Same applies to the ways one can gain the skills to get good results on stones. It just doesn't come easy or inexpensive.
> ...


Mine is a cheaper Ethos stainless steal set which would keep a longer edge, if i have to buy a waterstone then i imagine that would be adequate enough for my knives to keep them really sharp, i just bought them for a starter set really but i need a bigger chef knife as the one in it doesn't have a big enough heel for my comfort, but i'll buy a stainless steel one to match my set, i get one for £5 or £6 from Asda. So i can definitely get some practice in with my set.


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## lennyd (Dec 3, 2010)

I am not familiar with Ethos, but have found my low end knives actually get good results from less expensive oil stones (using water not oil) rather than wet stones. 

I still use the wet stone on some of them for the final stages, but most don't get any advantage from doing so.


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## emmbai90 (Sep 13, 2012)

LennyD said:


> I am not familiar with Ethos, but have found my low end knives actually get good results from less expensive oil stones (using water not oil) rather than wet stones.
> 
> I still use the wet stone on some of them for the final stages, but most don't get any advantage from doing so.


My set has a good rivet on them and they are nearly as sharp as expensive knives (although they aren't that sharp right now since whoever sharpened then left them a bit blunt, i've used them once just to test them out but they certainly sliced through good), i reckon they can get a nice edge if sharpened properly, certainly got a bargain there as they are almost like professional knives but i'm always good at finding bargains, i think i may post what i find on here for people here in the UK who need good quality stuff for cheaper, i always seem to look at the right times when deals are on expensive uniforms and tools. Are your knives stainless steel?.


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## ziggyb (Mar 9, 2013)

Option for those that want to try.
Short learning curve, inexpensive and belts can be found in any grit including leather with compounds.
It is fast at 3200 rpm but once you learn to move the steel and have a water bucket backup, lots and lots of thing can be done.

A Harbor Freight 1 x 30 belt sander.

look it up on youtube and various knife forums.
It is what it is, but for the $, you cannot beat it as long as you understand to move accordingly and not build up heat.

http://m14forum.com/edged-weapons/1...x30-sander-my-favorite-sharpening-system.html


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## ziggyb (Mar 9, 2013)

Benuser said:


> 3200rpm? Good luck!


Not as scary or hard to deal with as you think.
Paper Wheels run on 3200 rpm polishers work great and are common as well.

Next step down is 1750rpm for 1x42 belt machines for $250 and up.

As long as you know what you're doing and pay attention, all is well.
In the video, you can see the guy is not sweating it.

Now polishing cloth wheels that grab at that speed are a whole nother ball game


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## dillbert (Jul 2, 2008)

a ten mile diameter pulley running at 3200 rpm is something different.

perhaps one should think in belt speed / fpm / etc?


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## emmbai90 (Sep 13, 2012)

Think i'll stick to stones my dad knows how to do it as he used to be a mechanic and i don't want to cut myself or chop off a finger lol my instructor taught me to also work safely (she's right as i used a really sharp knife there once and immediately after an hour or so cut my finger lol they were the knives for the most advanced classes), at least with a stone you can keep your fingers on top of the knife out of the way of the blade. i'm so scared when i get into an apprenticeship i know they will make me chop faster.


Nicko said:


> @emmbai90 here is a piece someone wrote a while back that might help you.
> [article="27334"]How To Sharpen A Chefs Knife [/article]


i may buy this stone as i say on YouTube one side sharpens and one side polishes, how much do the prices range from?.


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## ziggyb (Mar 9, 2013)

Dillbert said:


> a ten mile diameter pulley running at 3200 rpm is something different.
> 
> perhaps one should think in belt speed / fpm / etc?


fpm or rpm, belt or wheel, axle speed in comparison to wheel size, stones or vices .. all factors and ways to make an angle.
I've used them all and in the end it is a machine with you as an extension of that machine.

Each has a learning curve.

The education of how to use that machine is what makes the difference.
I've seen countless edges ruined along with blade bodies scratched to death by a steel or stone 

The worst, IMHO, are the pull throughs as you are at the mercy of that unit.
Let alone that a bolster won't fit, and if aggressive, in short time you'll slide a dime between the heel of the knife and the cutting board.

One interesting thing about a belt driven machine ... you are not working against the belt's direction, or wheels for that matter.
Also the pressure you put on is very light .. a throw is very unlikely.
You have to do something along the lines of putting your finger in a slicer to cause a major problem.

That said, pluses of belts ... you can convex the edge or use the platen and V edge it.
You can repair tips and bolsters.
You can take a 10" broken knife and make it a fully functional 8".
You can thin the body if needed.
You can remove scratches from the blade, make it satin finish or polished.

All for a base price of $40 plus another $10 in belts.

Yes, there are better, more expensive things out there.
Even a nice Shapton stone can run you several hundred dollars.

IMHO, the biggest bang for the buck .... next to a set of paper wheels and a $40 polisher


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## dillbert (Jul 2, 2008)

>>fpm or rpm, belt or wheel, axle speed in comparison to wheel size, stones or vices .. all factors and ways to make an angle.

care to rethink that?  geometry is not your friend is this issue.


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## emmbai90 (Sep 13, 2012)

i'm just starting up in catering though so i can't afford that much, at the start of this thread i put a link for a compact V rod that is cheap and has really good reviews, Amazon reviews haven't failed me yet and they don't delete negative reviews to sell their products, they can't as only you the owner who makes the review can remove it so it hasa  100% accurate customer review system (something i wish ebay had but they have just recently made changes, hopefully they add a review system as there are too many people on there who mislead others about items). That product is well within my range so i may invest in both a stone and the super sharpener. Forget the 1 negative review in there though you always get 1 or 2 mardy bums that hate it lol the rest speaks for it's self.


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## ziggyb (Mar 9, 2013)

Dillbert said:


> >>fpm or rpm, belt or wheel, axle speed in comparison to wheel size, stones or vices .. all factors and ways to make an angle.
> 
> care to rethink that? geometry is not your friend * is this* issue.


nor is English yours  , but to the meat of the matter.
point is they are all means/factors to achieving the same end.
you are the angle or the machine/tool is the angle

factors of speed will effect how you achieve your angle and its effect on the metal and how you interact with the machine

paper wheels for instance, IME, create a better edge at 3200
you control the angle, not the machine or how fast or slow it runs

if you care to polish an edge by hand and not roll the edge, knock yourself out
let me know if speed would have helped a bit


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## ziggyb (Mar 9, 2013)

emmbai90 said:


> i'm just starting up in catering though so i can't afford that much, at the start of this thread i put a link for a compact V rod that is cheap and has really good reviews, Amazon reviews haven't failed me yet and they don't delete negative reviews to sell their products, they can't as only you the owner who makes the review can remove it so it hasa 100% accurate customer review system (something i wish ebay had but they have just recently made changes, hopefully they add a review system as there are too many people on there who mislead others about items). That product is well within my range so i may invest in both a stone and the super sharpener. Forget the 1 negative review in there though you always get 1 or 2 mardy bums that hate it lol the rest speaks for it's self.


You might want to check out a Spyderco Sharpmaker.
Best of both worlds, easy learning curve, not super expensive, portable .. AND, they also make an ultra fine set of rods.


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## emmbai90 (Sep 13, 2012)

Lol whatever way works for each of us, we all have our own ways and what is manageable for us but i'm a more straight to the point person that likes to follow clear instructions, not lazy just i like manageable and preferably things don't use up a lot of space that i can carry around it just makes life so much easier. Here's a video of a very expensive knife being sharpened on a wet stone and it's razor sharp and no problems. Forget the parts about leveling that's just flawed as it messes up the other stone lol might as well buy some sort of cheap paper.


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## emmbai90 (Sep 13, 2012)

ziggyb said:


> You might want to check out a Spyderco Sharpmaker.
> Best of both worlds, easy learning curve, not super expensive, portable .. AND, they also make an ultra fine set of rods.


Nice! that set is value for money for sure but check these comments from the bad review, doesn't stay in place, i guess that's what you get for all that for so cheap, i generely know which negative comments are truthful comments and which ones are just people being hard to please lol.
http://www.amazon.com/review/R2OHLL...D=3375251&store=sporting-goods#wasThisHelpful


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## ziggyb (Mar 9, 2013)

emmbai90 said:


> Nice! that set is value for money for sure but check these comments from the bad review, doesn't stay in place, i guess that's what you get for all that for so cheap, i generely know which negative comments are truthful comments and which ones are just people being hard to please lol.
> http://www.amazon.com/review/R2OHLL...D=3375251&store=sporting-goods#wasThisHelpful


Your hand holds it in place. No suction.
Silicon baking sheet works wonders.

The rods have 40degree and 30degree placements.
You hold and pull down and vertically to the base.
Need a different angle, adjust accordingly with your hand and eye.
You quickly get the hang of it. Use a sharpie on the knife's edge and the learning curve goes faster.

2 metal rods protect your base holding hand if you slip.

I have 2 that have seen heavy use for more than 30 years I'd say and have gone through a few various rods.
Some extra heavy grit for reprofiling.

In effect, you have 4 grits more or less by using the corners (more aggressive), then flat, change rods, corners, flats.
Corners work decently on standard scallops on serrate. 
Knock the back bur off by going almost parallel to the rod.

Rods IME, one base fits perfect, other tight.

Key is, YOU are in control, not the machine. Even if there is play, as you apply pressure the play is gone.
You control how much metal you take off, not the machine ... one thing that worries me about the one you're looking at.
I wouldn't put an expensive knife in anything that can determine how much metal its going to take away.

Assembly, compact but can use a good rubber band to keep the lid on.
But all the pieces fit inside.

Worth a look:


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## ziggyb (Mar 9, 2013)

Oh, the groove does fish hooks and it can do scissors.


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## emmbai90 (Sep 13, 2012)

it's only 4 pieces of long stone though lol (unless your unlucky enough to only get the ceramic stones like one person said they did), for way less than that price i could get a wet stone with 2 sides and since you said you went through a few rods why do that when a stone will last you for years to come without having to buy another one? the reviews said they ain't what they used to be and the rods wobble and i read some of the comments on the YT video too it said the diamond rods coast almost as much as the whole thing lol so i'll pass on this, here in the UK things are hard money wise as everything is coasting more and more with no sign of a pay rise other than a few quid twice a year.

Every time we get a "pay rise" though they put prices up again, supermarkets are super bad for it and energy companies, supermarkets up prices up on certain items every single holiday, pancake day, st patricks day, summer holidays, ramadam etc... and they rarely put the prices back down, so in terms of how pricey this is going to be to keep it id say it's not worth it for me. I like the concept though to make faster and easier but these days it coasts more to get faster and easier because they know people want fast.


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## ziggyb (Mar 9, 2013)

emmbai90 said:


> it's only 4 pieces of long stone though lol (unless your unlucky enough to only get the ceramic stones like one person said they did), for way less than that price i could get a wet stone with 2 sides and since you said you went through a few rods why do that when a stone will last you for years to come without having to buy another one? the reviews said they ain't what they used to be and the rods wobble and i read some of the comments on the YT video too it said the diamond rods coast almost as much as the whole thing lol so i'll pass on this, here in the UK things are hard money wise as everything is coasting more and more with no sign of a pay rise other than a few quid twice a year.
> 
> Every time we get a "pay rise" though they put prices up again, supermarkets are super bad for it and energy companies, supermarkets up prices up on certain items every single holiday, pancake day, st patricks day, summer holidays, ramadam etc... and they rarely put the prices back down, so in terms of how pricey this is going to be to keep it id say it's not worth it for me. I like the concept though to make faster and easier but these days it coasts more to get faster and easier because they know people want fast.


Only trying to help not sell anything.
Like I've said, I've tried just about everything, I sharpen for a living and have learned from the ground up.

Go with your gut.


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## emmbai90 (Sep 13, 2012)

Cool maybe when i have more money i will try this, hopefully i'm lucky to get a job through an apprenticeship but it's hard to even keep jobs here these days as they are only mostly hiring for just jobs they need you to do and then let you off, i think you get to keep jobs you got through an apprentice though. For now though a whetstone and some paper for leveling it off is the safest option money wise i'm sure it will do for the time being as i have to learn to not cut myself with a super sharp knife yet aha best keep it to stone sharpness.


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## emmbai90 (Sep 13, 2012)

Not sure which stone to get though, i found a top of the range stone that is 1000 - 3000 grit it's a combination stone but there has to be good ones cheaper than £30 :\ i read a few threads but you guys type a lot lol far more than i do most of the time it's a lot to take in reading everything, i read a good start whetstone is a king stone but they are more pricey than this one which is £30 i think for a newbie a combination stone would be a good stone to start off on but i found a cheaper version of that rod set you showed me my dad suggested rods too briefly so i might consider it, this one is more sturdy than the one you showed me and reviews say it still sharpens good, £30 is my max price range.Maybe rods would be better for me because of all the stuff about angles i'm terrible at maths i mean i've got better at basic thanks to Khan Academy but generally trying to tell the difference between angles for me is difficult lol, yet i'm amazing at it while playing zombie shoot ups lol i'm weird. Then again how would you even buy the mods? i see no way to buy more to put inside there but i bet it's £15 for 2 new ones.


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## emmbai90 (Sep 13, 2012)

Hmm... theirs no combo stone at 800 - 2k at the moment mostly just single stones, i also read it's better to get single stones than combo stones for different levels of sharpening like a lower grit stone for really blunt knives then the higher up you go the more it cleans it up and sharpens them nicely, says the same on in the description for the Naniwa stones, i think i will wait until i've started an apprenticeship and got some more money coming in as they might also provide me with knives and sharpen them for me, so i'll buy a few during it.


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## lennyd (Dec 3, 2010)

Benuser said:


> 3200rpm? Good luck!


great point

Guess could slow it down, but every method I know of its more expensive than the actual sander lol


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## lennyd (Dec 3, 2010)

emmbai90 said:


> Not sure which stone to get though, i found a top of the range stone that is 1000 - 3000 grit it's a combination stone but there has to be good ones cheaper than £30 :\ i read a few threads but you guys type a lot lol far more than i do most of the time it's a lot to take in reading everything, i read a good start whetstone is a king stone but they are more pricey than this one which is £30 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Grade-Double-Sided-Whetstone-1000/dp/B0099N3CYA/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t i think for a newbie a combination stone would be a good stone to start off on but i found a cheaper version of that rod set you showed me http://www.amazon.co.uk/Deluxe-Turnbox-Crock-Sharpener-Medium/dp/B000B8FW0E/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1395296008&sr=8-5&keywords=sharpening+rod my dad suggested rods too briefly so i might consider it, this one is more sturdy than the one you showed me and reviews say it still sharpens good, £30 is my max price range.Maybe rods would be better for me because of all the stuff about angles i'm terrible at maths i mean i've got better at basic thanks to Khan Academy but generally trying to tell the difference between angles for me is difficult lol, yet i'm amazing at it while playing zombie shoot ups lol i'm weird. Then again how would you even buy the mods? i see no way to buy more to put inside there but i bet it's £15 for 2 new ones.


OK so your looking for rock bottom cost. That's no problem, or surprise (most of my Brit friends have been known to be called cheapskates, and even the wealthy ones so I'll cut you some slack here lol) and there are options.

I have used e syringe everything from garage sale oil stones, nikken or other sand paper over marble or hardwood blocks, and even the bottom rough area on cups for cheap knives in a pinch.

They all work to varying degrees, and results do change with the actual knife, but all get the results of a sharp edge even if all are not truly sharpening.

I do keep a ultra fine (about 3000 grit) peeve of sandpaper on a hardwood block in my drawer as I find beget for touch up than honing rods. Works great


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## pcrcrepaira (Jan 31, 2016)

yes, them grinders will ruin your knifes ,if you got a good set of new knifes they have the correct bevels on the blade, and all they need is a few passes on a hand held diamond knife sharpener, i have knives i had for 40 years and never sharpend them on a grinding stone


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