# Ideas For Curing Salmon



## carnivorous1 (Oct 2, 2001)

I've been thinking about putting a citrus cured salmon on my new spring menu - I think it will be cleaner and brighter than our current smoked salmon that works wonderfully throughout the fall and winter. I've never actually cured a salmon and some concerns are the following:
-how long do I cure for & what is the shelf life of the fish once it is cured? As always, I'd love to hear some of your ideas.


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## marmalady (Apr 19, 2001)

I make an 'Italian' cure with marsala and basil; a margharita cure with tequila and citrus; and a Scottish cure with Scotch and dill.

Start with salt, sugar, and whatever spices/herbs you want (or the citrus rind). Coat the salmon on both sides, wrap in plastic, place on a sheet pan, cover and weight down. Let it cure for 24 hours, drain off the moisture, and add aromatics like liquor and liquid seasonings (I just did one with a bourbon and pomegranate molasses cure). Wrap and weight again, and let cure for two days. Unwrap, place on a rack uncovered, and let it dry out for two days. Should be good for about a week after this.


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## shawtycat (Feb 6, 2002)

Marm,

You do this in the fridge, right??  Sorry Never cured anything before either. :blush:


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## marmalady (Apr 19, 2001)

Yup, in the fridge.


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## bacchus (Mar 19, 2002)

Marmalady I was wondering if you would share your recipe for the Scottish cure. I enjpy using liquors in my cooking for the flavor and earthiness that some scottish whiskeys add to the dish


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## cape chef (Jul 31, 2000)

How are you thinking of serving your "spring" salmon?

I am sure you will find some nice recipes for gravlox.

The sugar/salt ratio should be equal, the salt is what draws out the liquid from the flesh, and also cures the flesh, as the sugar main roll is to keep the flesh somewhat tender.

With my traditinal gravlox as an app sometimes I make a aquavit,lemon and tarragon sorbet, that I place on a seasoned chiffinade of lettuce and top it with a couple thin slices of salmon, a little horseradish cream and some crushed and toasted juniper berries.

I do one similar to marmaladys tequilla cure, I add 2/3 lemon verbena and 1/3 cilantro to the cure and proceed as normal.

I then make a salsa cruda, slice some avocado and candy some lime zest.
I slice the salmon on a long bias and fill it with some of the cruda, avocado and lime and fold it like a spring roll, I serve this chilled and topped with a couple drunken grilled 16/20s and a citrus vinaigrette.


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## pete (Oct 7, 2001)

At a Southwestern place I used to work at we used to do the tequila and citrus thing. We also added lightly crushed coriander seed and dried habaneros. It was great.


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## marmalady (Apr 19, 2001)

CC & Pete - Great ideas! 

Bacchus - The Scottish salmon is cured as I said above, with sugar, salt and pepper (thanks, CC, forgot to mention ratios!); then after that has cured for a day, pour off the liquid, and add Scotch and chopped dill, wrap and cure again for two days, then drain, open and let dry cure for two days.


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## carnivorous1 (Oct 2, 2001)

Thanks for answering all of my questions - the curing time, shelf life, and ratios of salt to sugar - it'll give me a lot to work off of. I was thinking of a citrus cure and possibly working in some cumin and heat. Previously I thought I'd do this by means of a chile oil with crushed toasted cumin and cilantro on top of the finished cured fish, but now I'm definately going to try to work those flavors into the dry cure and into the second stage of the liquid cure. I'll let you know how my first attempt pans out (give me about a week!!)


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## erikanderson2 (Mar 7, 2002)

Try adding some Lapsang Souchong (a black tea from Taiwan - an assertive, tarry tea with pine smokiness) during the curring process. It will add a wonderful subtle depth of smoke and wood flavor to your cured fish. I work at a place that serves this fish as is on a bed of watercress and a few scallions on top. It is wonderful.

What great ideas cape chef!


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## [email protected] (Apr 9, 2002)

HI There

I was woundering if are going to serve the cured salmon hot or cold. I have done both the only major differance is that if you are going to serve it warm you only have to cure for 45min to 1 hour depending on the thickness of the salmon. if you would like the recipe i can post it for you. I would also suggest using other fish such as trout or artic char fish are just as nice or nicer then salmon.

Brian


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## suzanne (May 26, 2001)

Everyone's suggestions have sounded GREAT! But I kept thinking, I can't do a whole side of salmon at home. So Brian's idea of using a smaller fish is just perfect! But is it safe to use a fresh-water fish like trout?

And yes, Brian, please DO post your recipe!


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## marmalady (Apr 19, 2001)

Suzanne, you don't need to cure the whole side of salmon - unless you really, really, love it - and plan on eating it for weeks!

I usually get a 'center-cut' piece of fillet, where the the two cut ends are more or less the same size, rather than tapering. I've cured as small an amount as 1 lb. and it works just fine.


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## cape chef (Jul 31, 2000)

Dear Suzanne,

I like fresh water trout smoked, It goes through a liqiud brine before being smoked, but a pure cure (no pun intended) will pretty much break the trout down.

As for Artic Char, This is a really good idea. I serve it quite a bit but I have never cured it "ala gravlox" but I imagine you would have very similar results with the char.

Also, Marmaladys point on buying a center cut piece is a good idea.
cc


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## marmalady (Apr 19, 2001)

I think I'd be a little wary of using a 'wild' fish rather than a 'farmed' fish, because of parasites. The curing process because there's no heat, will not kill the little buggies.


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## suzanne (May 26, 2001)

Marmalady -- from what I've seen, it's the farmed stuff that's riskier. Kind of the same way that if 1 kid in daycare comes in sick, every kid gets sick.

I was thinking more based on not using freshwater fish for sushi. Yeah, I know about those disgusting worms in swordfish, but there are invisible guys in freshwater fish.


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## marmalady (Apr 19, 2001)

Maybe I'm wrong - I thought I had seen something or read something where they said the parasites were less of a problem in farm raised fish, because they can control them with medicines better. 

Anecdotal story time - I was making sushi to impress my martial arts instructor once, and had gotten a beautiful piece of fresh wild salmon at the fishmongers. Using my tweezers, I was carefully removing all the pin bones, when I noticed that some of the bones were REALLY pliable, and seemed to be moving!!! Yup, disgusting little wormies!!!!!


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## [email protected] (Apr 9, 2002)

hi there again

using trout is find as long as its from a good source, where i work we use trout more then salmon will also use farmed trout so we know they are from a good source but i have seen people use wild trout.

citrus marinated trout confit

1 lemon zested
1 lime zested
1 orange zested
1/2 c sea salt

copped:
fresh thyme
fresh rosemary
fresh dill
star anise
correnader

Mix all the ingds. together and cut the trout in the portion sizes about 3 to 4 onces ant press the mix on to each piece. let set for one hour and rub off the mixture from the trout. heat up the olive oil to 200 F and slowly poach the trout in the oil for a few mins.

the recipe for the gravlox i left at work but i well post it soon.

brian


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## suzanne (May 26, 2001)

At the 2 places where I've worked that had sushi bars, the (real Japanese) sushi chefs would coat the salmon with coarse salt and freeze it before using it raw. They both said this was standard practice in Japan, to kill any little guys that might be wiggling around. I guess technically then it's not "fresh," but it is safe.

On the farmed vs. wild question: I'm more concerned that they HAVE to give the fish drugs because they are penned and end up swimming through their own feces. It's the same idea as the indiscriminate use of antibiotics for other food animals. The growers create the need for the meds. I know this is a very emotional issue to many people, so I won't go any further.

*Brian* -- Thanks for the trout recipe. Looks yummy and very do-able. I see it is briefly cooked, so that makes me less wary.


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## marmalady (Apr 19, 2001)

I know what you mean, Suzanne - we either have to deal with the buggies or the drugs!!


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## suzanne (May 26, 2001)

Taking ideas from everyone, I did some trout this past weekend to bring to a brunch on Sunday:

_Suzanne's version of Brian's Trout Confit_

For 2 skin-in fillets, about 9-10 inches long (I forgot to weigh them first):

1 tsp. grated lime zest (1/2 of a lime)
1 1/2 tsps. grated lemon zest (1/2 of a lemon)
2 tsps. finely minced shallot (1 small shallot)
2 tsps. finely minced jalapeno (1/2 of a large one; kind of mild)
2 T. Turbinado sugar
2 T. kosher salt
about 25 grinds of freshly-ground black pepper

Combine and spread on flesh side of fillets. Place fillets on a plate, one on top of the other, flesh sides together. Cover well with plastic; weight with another plate. Refrigerate for about 36 hours.

Uncover. Drain off liquid. Place top fillet on plate, skin-side down. Sprinkle both fillets with vodka, about 1 T. in all. Cover again with plastic, weight, and refrigerate again for about 4 hours.

Uncover. Drain off liquid. Scrape curing mix off flesh. Refrigerate uncovered for about 24 hours.

Pour olive oil to a depth of about 1/2" in an 11" frying pan (I used an All-Clad "saute" pan with straight sides). Over a low flame, slowly bring oil up to 180 to 200 degrees F.

Slice fish at about 1/2" intervals on the bias, sliding knife along inside of skin (as if slicing salmon).

When oil is barely rippling, place fillets (on skin) in pan. Spoon some oil over fillets, cover, and poach for about 10 to 15 minutes (until fish at the center loses raw look). Carefully remove fillets and lay flat to drain on a rack.

------------------------------------

Served it without sauce or other accompaniment, to be able to concentrate just on the fish. (There were bagels available.) It was a big hit. People liked the citrus flavors, while the trout flavor still came through. The oil returned just enough moisture. BUT: next time, I don't think I'll leave the cure on quite so long. I'll use something else with more flavor than plain vodka. And that amount of cure would probably have been enough for twice as much fish. The salty-sweet was a little too strong for my (and my husband's) taste.

But this is still a work in progress. Thanks for giving me the courage to try it!!


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## dear abby (Mar 7, 2002)

My dearest Suzanne,

Your trout treatment sounds delightful! Dear Abby is now quite regretful that she was unable to bring her gamekeeper Lawrence with her during her stay in Wyoming and Montana. He could have plied his expert trout-fishing talents and provided the basis for Chef Henri's curative efforts. But it would have been so difficult to procure even one more ticket for Dear Jane's event! And of course, then there would again have been the worry of Lawrence and Jane!

Be that as it may, Chef Henri had an inspired suggestion for a sauce you might offer with your next attempt. Although he is not often a practitioner of frugality, he suggests that you make a Mayonnaise with the poaching oil, after it has cooled. How delightfully simple, no? Here is how he makes the classic sauce in a version that would complement your trout:

1 egg yolk
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
the juice of 1/2 a lemon (perhaps the same one you denuded of its zest)
8 to 9 ounces of the poaching oil, with juices
Tabasco-brand or other green Jalapeno sauce, to taste
Salt
Freshly ground White pepper

He places the egg yolk in the bowl of the Kitchen-Aid mixer, and allows it to come to room temperature. He beats the yolk with the whisk attachment for several minutes, to incorporate a great deal of air into it. (This also gives him a chance to pop down to the wine cellar to check the stock.)

He then adds the mustard and a bit of the lemon juice, and continues beating. Then, very slowly, he pours the oil in, down the side of the bowl. Every so often he stops the machine and scrapes down the sides; he warns that although it may look as though the mayonnaise on the bowl sides has broken, it has not. Perservere with the slow addition of oil! When most of the oil has been incorporated, he starts to add the Jalapeno sauce,
several splashes at a time. All the while beating, beating. Only after all the oil has been added does he taste, add salt and pepper, mix, taste, correct the seasoning and the amounts of lemon and jalapeno. Then, Voila! A lovely pale green sauce that echoes the flavors of the trout.

Chef Henri wishes to state that in his salad days he would have beaten the mixture by hand. Now, however, he is willing to allow the use of a machine. Only a mixer; he blanches at the thought of a blender or food processor.

Well, my sweet, Dear Abby hopes that you will try Henri's sauce. It was simple accompaniments like these that dear George found perhaps too irresistable. Ah, ... Dear Abby must go and lie down now. 

A bientot.


Abby


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## suzanne (May 26, 2001)

Merci beaucoup, Chere Abby! Please tell Chef Henri that I will definitely try his suggestion. And that I agree with him about the mixing method -- although I can't imagine that he would care that little old insignificant moi acknowledges his brilliance. After all, as long as Dear Abby does (she of the exquisit taste in all things), who else matters?


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## dear abby (Mar 7, 2002)

Herr Wusthof,

Dear Abby is flattered that you should think she is related to Mlle.
Quenelle. She has heard some rather nice things about this Quenelle.

She is afraid, however, that you are mistaken. Dear Abby is very simply Dear Abby! She greatly regrets that you seem so confused about this. She thinks that perhaps you should hone your detective skills a bit more.

Merci, mon ami, Cape Chef, for defending Dear Abby's honor.

Auf wiedersehen.

Abby


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## cape chef (Jul 31, 2000)

Dear Wusthof,

Let's stay on topic please!
Perhapes you have a nice recipe for curing salmon you would like to share with the community
Thank you
CC


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## nicko (Oct 5, 2001)

Several posts in this thread were deleted as they had nothing to do with the topic of curing salmon. If there are any questions regarding these decisions please send me a pm.


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## athenaeus (Jul 24, 2001)

Do you think that it's a good idea to cure salmon during summer time?


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## jock (Dec 4, 2001)

Sure, why not? It's all done in the refrigerator anyway and once the fish is cured it will keep the same in any season. 
I believe most of the salmon we buy at the market is farm raised and the foregoing discussions on food safety notwithstanding, I don't know if the quality of the fish varies from season to season. For example, would the fat content of a farm raised salmon be different in the summer vs. the winter and would that difference (if any) have an impact on the end product or the curing process? 
But I love gravlax any time of year  

Jock


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## suzanne (May 26, 2001)

Jock, you're right that the fat content will be different (lower in summer) -- although possibly not as much lower in farm-raised fish as in wild-caught. Lower fat might make for a slightly less unctuous product, but maybe it will keep a little better? I'm going to follow the suggestion of using just a section and try it. After all, what could be better in the summer than a gravlax and cucumber sandwich?:lips:


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## marmalady (Apr 19, 2001)

Unctuous - ooooh, I love that word! I've done 'the cure' summer and fall and winter, and haven't really noticed any difference in keeping qualities; the higher fat content does make for a better mouth feel, though, that velvety texture.


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