# Sakai Takayuki dissapointment....



## kitchenpig (Nov 10, 2010)

This is what happened to one of my Takayuiki knives. I have always cleaned them and dried them after each use even though I bought these knives as non staining/rusting. I bought a 300$ Moritaka from Paul's and returned ir after two days of staring at it because of being affraid of issues like that. 
I've had them for three years, using it once a week.
Knives were left in a pot filled with water after slicing a mild sausage and green onions.


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## mostadonte2 (Jun 11, 2013)

That's some weird stains, looks like acid burn :-/ Are you sure it was just plain water?


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## pahi53 (Jul 13, 2013)

How long have you had the Takayuiki knives? I had the same problem with a Mac chef's knife after 25 years of use. Finally got rid of it and purchased a Richmond 240 Artifex./img/vbsmilies/smilies/thumb.gif


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## kitchenpig (Nov 10, 2010)

Im a single parent with a 4 year old daughter. My mother living upstairs cooks for my kid while im working. I rarely cook since i dont really have time. Most of the time i will eat something on the way home knowing that my kid has been fed. Thus i only use these knives once a week. My background is european and i dont use any spicy/acidic stuff for cooking.

Most of the time knives are used to slice meat/green onions etc... some simple stuff.

Spoke to Paul today from Paul's finest, here is what his response was:

"

All knives will rust if left in contact with water for any length of time. You say you left it in a pot for two days... that would certainly do it, especially if there was anything acidic in the pot (which can cause dramatic pitting to any metal), or if the pot was made of some other metal that would then cause a reaction between the two metals.

I would suggest simply cleaning the blade very well with something mildly abrasive like ajax, then doing a full resharpening of the edge, grinding out any imperfections."

"

This is no defect -- you must never leave knives in water. After using your knife, you should leave it on the cutting board, then wash and dry and store it immediately. Every knife I sell comes with a slip of paper explaining proper care, including not to leave them sitting in water. Any metal left in water for an extended period of time can rust. Japanese knives especially, as they use a harder steel with more carbon in them."

This comes off his web site:

"impregnated with epoxy so they're durable and watertight) handles, and the blade consists of a hammered "damascus" style stainless steel cladding over a VG10 steel core and cutting edge. VG10 is a very, very good choice of steel for the cutting edge (many very high end Japanese knives use this same steel), so you get great performance and great looks"

I call this BIG BS. I have a set of Gerlach Cutlery that is three generations old. Stainless Steel. I have never seen a spot of rust on these and they are very old. My Great Grandfather used them first, then they were passed to my Grandfather later my Mom and me.

Will never purchase a Takayuki knife, NEVER. If i abused them or anything i understand, but not the way i used them-once a week or maybe not even that.Im not in the food industry. I believe Paul should replace it or get Takayuki to replace it since he is the dealer. This in my opinion is a defect!

I spent close to 1500$ at his online store and he will not see a penny more of my money. not a good experience.


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## kitchenpig (Nov 10, 2010)

[No message]


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## pahi53 (Jul 13, 2013)

IMHO...Crappy knife!/img/vbsmilies/smilies/frown.gif


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## kokopuffs (Aug 4, 2000)

Benuser said:


> Not necessarily. The rust appeared on the damaged parts of the edge, where the protective layer of chromiumoxide is no longer intact. I guess these are recent chips. Could have happened with any so called stainless steel if enough gross abuse is being involved.


Recently I read an article concerning rust forming on stainless steel. It occurs when the chromium oxide has been stripped away (or chipped I suppose) and comes in contact with a chloride (and perhaps other materials).


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## jbroida (Nov 13, 2011)

hate to say it, but this is entirely user error


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## vic cardenas (Nov 11, 2012)

I'm siding with Paul, Jon and Benuser on this. This is clearly gross misuse on your part. I would never let a knife touch a pot of water. Maybe a plastic container and maybe for 10 minutes. But not likely because I care about my investment. Not a pot for 2 days!!!  I would assume that those chips were there during use and the metal underneath will react, even if stainless, to green onions and other acidic foods. And then once it hit the pot, which will cause more chips, it will get attacked by whatever is in the pot, including acids and other metals. Water causes rust on all metal if left for prolonged periods of time... even stainless. I wipe my knives dry after each use, including all my stainless and store them in an area that won't get hit by stray water.


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## kokopuffs (Aug 4, 2000)

My older carbon steel Sabatiers get wiped and cleaned within 15 minutes of use or sooner as do my stainless blades. I'd invoke better care than what the OP described.


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## kokopuffs (Aug 4, 2000)

And you can send that knife to a competent bladesmith to have the edge reground and sharpened. All is certainly not lost.


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## pahi53 (Jul 13, 2013)

Benuser said:


> I would notice that the rust attacked especially the chipped edge. The first problem IMHO isn't so much the rust, but the edge abuse.


Chipped edge, 10 degrees, approx. cost for the knife, $199? You certainly did not get the bang for your buck$ Like I said earlier,Crappy knife. I wouldn't be surprised if some of you Knife enthusiast (euphemism for Knife Knut's) treat your knives better than your Pets. Of course that's my opinion and you know what they say about opinions.


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## jbroida (Nov 13, 2011)

i think what people forget is that spending more money can get you better performance, but it comes at a cost... the more money you spend, the better your skills will need to be to get the most out of it and care for/maintain it properly.  The above knife is nothing special, but its not a bad knife by any means either.  It is actually on the more abuse-friendly side of japanese knives.  All is not lost, and this can be easily fixed, but what really needs to change is the way you treat your tools.  If this is the way you expect to treat knives, then buy knives that are appropriate for this kind of treatment.

Quick car analogy... you can get away with a lot of abuse to a honda civic... putting in the wrong kind of gas, missing oil changes, not doing maintenance  But when you own a lotus, these kinds of mistakes will cause serious problems.

Maybe forschner is a better fit in this case... but if you left a forschner in water for 2 days, it would probably rust a bit too.  At least it wont chip as much on you.


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## mostadonte2 (Jun 11, 2013)

Oh shit, I thought those chips were made by corrosion....


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## pahi53 (Jul 13, 2013)

KitchenPig said:


> Im a single parent with a 4 year old daughter. My mother living upstairs cooks for my kid while im working. I rarely cook since i dont really have time. Most of the time i will eat something on the way home knowing that my kid has been fed. Thus i only use these knives once a week. My background is european and i dont use any spicy/acidic stuff for cooking.
> 
> Most of the time knives are used to slice meat/green onions etc... some simple stuff.
> 
> ...


Majority of the reply's seem to be putting the onus on you and not the quality of this particular dud that you purchased. After reading the above I agree with you that Paul is trying to weasel out of his responsibility to replace the Knife. If every product that's sold on the market is perfect then we're wasting our tax $$$ on the Federal Trade Commission (FTC)/img/vbsmilies/smilies/frown.gif Good Luck!!!


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## just jim (Oct 18, 2007)

KitchenPig said:


> Im a single parent with a 4 year old daughter. My mother living upstairs cooks for my kid while im working. I rarely cook since i dont really have time. Most of the time i will eat something on the way home knowing that my kid has been fed. Thus i only use these knives once a week. My background is european and i dont use any spicy/acidic stuff for cooking.
> Most of the time knives are used to slice meat/green onions etc... some simple stuff.
> 
> Spoke to Paul today from Paul's finest, here is what his response was:
> ...


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## galley swiller (May 29, 2013)

I've looked at the pictures and my perspective is not as a chef, but as a person living on salt water with corrosion problems as a day-to-day issue, especially concerning salt water.  Stainless steel issues are always being discussed among sailors.

First, I'm noting that all of the identifiable corrosion is taking place on the central core, especially along the edge.  I did not see any corrosion on the cladding.  If the heel of the blade was also immersed, I think that if you took a magnifier and examined the exposed heel of the blade, you might also see a pattern of red/orange oxidation in the middle of the san-mai construction, right along the line of the core.

I will take a small guess here, since I'm running from past general discussions about clad knives, that it's often the case that the harder core is often surrounded by a softer cladding which is intended to protect the core from corroding.

I also note that you said that you left the knife in a pot of water after cutting up some mild sausage and some onion.

What I think happened is the same as what happens on a boat when you have dissimilar metals that are either in direct contact or are in a medium where there is an electrolyte: you end up creating the classic example of a battery, where you had an anode and a cathode, with a means of electrically connecting the two.  The current that's created doesn't have to be much, but the cathode ends up being eaten away very rapidly.

The softer, but more resistant to rusting cladding is the anode.  The harder core, which is more prone to corrosion, is the cathode.  The remains of the sausage (with fats and other solvent-resistant greases) and the onion which you chopped up (the juices of the onion being acidic) served as the electrolyte.  And any heat in the water in the pot would serve as an energy source to speed up the process.

The pattern of corrosion is also suggestive of electrolytic action.  The pattern is not uniform along the edge, but is instead clumped in spots - probably where there was the most residual electrolyte (fat and onion juice).  There is a strip right at the tip - right where there would have been use of the tip for cutting.  Electrolytic corrosion is also highest where the amount of metal is proportionally less concerning the surface area - which fits the description of the edge, where a blade by definition is thinnest, and therefore has the greatest surface to volume.

Especially on salt water, having dissimilar connecting metals on a boat is a fast way to end up with major corrosion and metal failure.  One local rigger brings plenty of rigging failure examples to seminars, and then shows and explains what happened.

It's a shame what happened, but I think it will be an example to all of us to just not leave any knife in water.

Galley Swiller


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## galley swiller (May 29, 2013)

It's the morning after I wrote the above, and I kept mulling over what I wrote as I went to bed.  So, I've just reviewed what I said and also re-viewed the pictures, especially the second set of much more detailed photos,

And my earlier conclusion is significantly strengthened.

When I re-examined the detail photos, I noticed two things - 1) the "chips" are all semi-oval, and are surrounded by varying levels of corrosive degrading; and 2) at a number of the ovals, there is a straight thin band of metal activity (I don't want to call it corrosion, but it was clearly some form of metal activity) running at as near to right angles from the edge and terminating at the cladding (it's not present everywhere).

Chipping did not occur on this knife.  Corrosion did.  The thin bands running at right angles to the edge are where the electrical mini-current connected the cladding to the active corrosion point.

As both Benuser and Kokopuffs noted, rust can start where chromium oxide is worn away.  The reason that we don't see corrosion much more often in stainless steel is that normally, the surface chrome in stainless steel is very reactive to oxygen.  Once it does react, it forms a surface patina that is both tightly binding to the steel and is resistant to further oxidation for any underlying metal.

But once the surface chromium oxide is removed, especially in an environment weak in free oxygen (such as immersion in water), then water and iron are free to react together, and the chrome in stainless steel is an irrelevancy.  That's why on boats, stainless steel is NEVER supposed to be used on any outside-hull location below the waterline.

On sailboats with stainless steel rigging, post-failure analysis often shows "crevice corrosion", where water gains entry through a pinhole in the chromium oxide - and surface tension allows more water to enter, blocking off free oxygen and allowing for corrosion to spread through the steel.  The iron is oxidized into rust, exits through the surface of the object, and is replaced by water, which continues the process, until the steel is eaten away, often still leaving the surface of the object still looking whole and shiny.

Remember also, this knife has probably over 90% of its surface area covered by cladding - the anode.  The corrosion is along the edge - right where the knife would have had the greatest wear.  Each oval of corrosion (and initially it would likely have begun as a point of wear at the edge) would have started and continued where there was no protective layer of chromium oxide.  With that large a surface area of anode to tiny pinprick areas of cathode, it's not surprising that there would be a concentration of galvanic action.

We don't normally see such corrosion on our stainless knives because we clean the full surface of the knife and the edge and then leave the cleaned surface open to oxygen in the air, allowing for chromium oxide to form on newly-exposed steel.  Here, there was no chance for chromium oxide to form, and a perfect storm of conditions allowed for the corrosive action to occur.

Galley Swiller


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## vic cardenas (Nov 11, 2012)

I learned something today.


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## mostadonte2 (Jun 11, 2013)

Galley Swiller, not sure how right you are about this case but it was very interesting to read your posts.


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## harlock0083 (Feb 11, 2013)

I don't think the reduction potentials between VG10 and whatever the stainless cladding would be that different to suggest corrosion was accelerated its not like putting copper and iron together like for peoples pipes in a house. Its just flat out user error like John said.


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## harlock0083 (Feb 11, 2013)

Also the OP needs to get rid of the rust asap or the whole knife is going to end up being a tetanus shot waiting to happen.


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## galley swiller (May 29, 2013)

In looking at the pictures again, I'm seeing that the iron oxide is brown, which indicates Fe3O4 (iron oxide, 3 atoms of iron and 4 atoms of oxygen).  What it's not is Fe2O3 (2 atoms of iron and 3 atoms of oxygen), which is red/orange in color and better known by its four letter epithet, "rust".  Certainly, at this point, the OP should not use the knife until it has been restored by a bladesmith or by a competent hand sharpener, such as Dave Martell.

If it were rust, by all means, I would recommend removal of the rust ASAP.  Whether the OP should remove the brown Fe3O4 at this point is a quandry, since that molecular variant of iron oxide is stable (on a carbon steel blade, it would be referred to as "patina"), and absent any use of the blade or subsequent immersion, will not spread any further corrosion.  The quandry comes in whether the restorer should have a good hands-on examination on how far the knife has been damaged.  That may take a more detailed examination (including by magnification) which we bystanders might miss just by looking at the photos.

As for whether the level of damage could come from galvanic action, I would not be surprised.  If you look at modern galvanic batteries, the plates are extremely thin to maximize surface area compared to mass or volume, but are roughly equal between anodic plates and cathodic plates.  That is almost the case here.  The operative word in the last sentence is "almost".  The cathodic points are concentrated at specific points at the edge.  Think of it as, the anode surfaces are pretty big, but the cathodic points are miniscule.  All the galvanic power comes through the small points, and, since it's the cathodes which wear, that concentrates the damage at the specific cathodic points.

This is also really a specific case which needs to follow the circumstances of being a multiple-metal knife blade.  Jon is probably correct that putting even a Forschner in water would result in rust.  The difference is that it probably would rust all over (any single metal blade knife would do the same), and not have the rust concentrated only at the edge, which is the case here.  And it is likely there wouldn't be any "chipping" along the edge, unless the edge first had some use just before being put into water, to promote creating micro-wear spots.

Galley Swiller


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## jbroida (Nov 13, 2011)

FWIW, i also see this often on similar knives that have been put in the dishwasher while still very dirty.  Looks almost the same, except that the dishwasher messes up the handles too.


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## harlock0083 (Feb 11, 2013)

Galley if its magnetite , I'd wonder if the OP would be willing to see if his brown spots are magnetic /img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif, which I doubt anyway. Its rust imo. He'll need to remove it anyway unless you want convert his knife to a serrated one.


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## harlock0083 (Feb 11, 2013)

JBroida said:


> FWIW, i also see this often on similar knives that have been put in the dishwasher while still very dirty. Looks almost the same, except that the dishwasher messes up the handles too.


OP didn't show the handle in the pic, but I'm thinking that the knife probably went through a few rounds in the dishwasher now too.


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## harlock0083 (Feb 11, 2013)

pahi53 said:


> Majority of the reply's seem to be putting the onus on you and not the quality of this particular dud that you purchased. After reading the above I agree with you that Paul is trying to weasel out of his responsibility to replace the Knife. If every product that's sold on the market is perfect then we're wasting our tax $$$ on the Federal Trade Commission (FTC)/img/vbsmilies/smilies/frown.gif Good Luck!!!


Its not a dud pahi. The OP most certainly mistreated his knife.


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## phaedrus (Dec 23, 2004)

That's abuse, plain and simple.  It looks like edge abuse, but no matter what you can't leave a kitchen knife soaking for two days and not have issues.  I don't like the term "stainless"; it's a misnomer.  There are metals/steels that won't rust no matter what but they're not used in kitchen knives.

Still, that knife can be salvaged.  You're gonna lose a couple mm of edge but none of the damage is up into the cladding.  There's till plenty of the hagane left to grind out the chips/rust and sharpen the knife.


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## pahi53 (Jul 13, 2013)

Phaedrus said:


> That's abuse, plain and simple. It looks like edge abuse, but no matter what you can't leave a kitchen knife soaking for two days and not have issues. I don't like the term "stainless"; it's a misnomer. There are metals/steels that won't rust no matter what but they're not used in kitchen knives.
> 
> Still, that knife can be salvaged. You're gonna lose a couple mm of edge but none of the damage is up into the cladding. There's till plenty of the hagane left to grind out the chips/rust and sharpen the knife.


Give it up already. IMHO, the thread starter "Kitchen Pig" threw in the towel. He read our comments, dealt with the dealer, didn't like chasing the dealer around the Mulberry Bush for a refund, (I'm paraphrasing) and said screw it. Kitchen Pig already stated that he will not purchase another knife from the dealer, "Paul" Now if it was me! I wouldn't waste my time trying to bring that Dud knife back to life and just toss it, but that's me. /img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif


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## just jim (Oct 18, 2007)

pahi53 said:


> Give it up already. IMHO, the thread starter "Kitchen Pig" threw in the towel. He read our comments, dealt with the dealer, didn't like chasing the dealer around the Mulberry Bush for a refund, (I'm paraphrasing) and said screw it. Kitchen Pig already stated that he will not purchase another knife from the dealer, "Paul" Now if it was me! I wouldn't waste my time trying to bring that Dud knife back to life and just toss it, but that's me. /img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif


If it can be saved I would put the effort in, especially since the user caused the damage.

But it's easier to point blame elsewhere and give up than take responsibility for ones own actions.


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## pahi53 (Jul 13, 2013)

Just Jim said:


> If it can be saved I would put the effort in, especially since the user caused the damage.
> 
> But it's easier to point blame elsewhere and give up than take responsibility for ones own actions.


Apparently "Kitchen Pig" chose not to waste his time bringing the DUD! knife back to life. What a Wonderful Country we live in. We can point blame without physical repercussions, just verbal. Money talks, BS walks. "Paul" is the loser, he lost a good customer.


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## just jim (Oct 18, 2007)

pahi53 said:


> What a Wonderful Country we live in. We can point blame without physical repercussions, just verbal.


As I see.


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## knifesavers (Oct 5, 2011)

pahi53 said:


> Apparently "Kitchen Pig" chose not to waste his time bringing the DUD! knife back to life. What a Wonderful Country we live in. We can point blame without physical repercussions, just verbal. Money talks, BS walks. "Paul" is the loser, he lost a good customer.


So do you ignore the instructions on your car about oil changes also and then when the engine seizes complain it is a POS?

Butter knives and other tableware maybe could endure 2 days in water but no good cutting knife would.

He can believe what he wants but the collective knife wisdom on this board knows better.

If I run across a ruined Shun or similar I'm gonna toss it water for 2 days.

Jim


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## pahi53 (Jul 13, 2013)

KnifeSavers said:


> So do you ignore the instructions on your car about oil changes also and then when the engine seizes complain it is a POS?
> 
> Butter knives and other tableware maybe could endure 2 days in water but no good cutting knife would.
> 
> ...


Ho-Hum!!!


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## mostadonte2 (Jun 11, 2013)

> "Paul" is the loser, he lost a *good* customer.


Good Customer; Are you sure about that? I think Paul or any other business for that matter is better off without customers like that.


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## kitchenpig (Nov 10, 2010)

Lol, you guys really rock! At least some of you 

1. I don't own a dishwasher. none of my knives seen a dishwasher, ever. 
2. I only use them on soft stuff. Beef(no bone since I don't have time for it), veggies, and that's about it. No frozen stuff etc. 
3. Been away for a week plus with my 4yr old, rving. Knives are on the magnetic holder hence, no reply to topics.
4. None of my knives have chips. These were not caused by chips. 

I'm not blaming Paul by any means. Maybe I caused this. but as i said in one of the first posts, thats why i got these knives and not Moritaka or Takeda Gyuto, which as i said one of them got returrned to Paul after looking at it for two days, admiring it. Wanted to go a safer route, and i thought I went. 
Money is no problem here, as I said earlier I'm just dissapointed. 

BTW, exactlythe same knife when it arrived innitiay from Paul was not sharpened on one siide. I sent it back and got a new one or same, don't know.


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## pahi53 (Jul 13, 2013)

KitchenPig said:


> Lol, you guys really rock! At least some of you /img/vbsmilies/smilies/tongue.gif
> 
> 1. I don't own a dishwasher. none of my knives seen a dishwasher, ever.
> 2. I only use them on soft stuff. Beef(no bone since I don't have time for it), veggies, and that's about it. No frozen stuff etc.
> ...


Aloha KP, I thought you rode off into the Sunset. Literally speaking I guess you did with your 4 year old. Welcome back. LOL/img/vbsmilies/smilies/bounce.gif


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## pahi53 (Jul 13, 2013)

mostadonte2 said:


> Good Customer; Are you sure about that? I think Paul or any other business for that matter is better off without customers like that.


Yawnnnn!


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## knifesavers (Oct 5, 2011)

Other than the rust damage the knife looks good for a 3 year old blade so you took good care of it until committing a cardinal sin and causing the damage.

At this point I'd suggest sending it to Jon at Japanese Knife Imports to get the best fix possible.

Jim


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## kokopuffs (Aug 4, 2000)

Time to terminate this thread.  All that could be stated has been stated.  Moving on...


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## galley swiller (May 29, 2013)

Mebbe not quite so fast, Kokopuffs.  One more bit of info might be useful.

The pictures show visible pit corrosion.  There might also be crevice corrosion (where the corrosion is entirely inside the core layer of the blade and not visible on the outside of the core layer),

This Friday, I may get a chance to talk with a person who has professionally dealt with metal component failure in a galvanically hostile environment - Master Rigger Brion Toss.  I will be at the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival, and, if I get the chance, I will ask Brion about crevice corrosion frequency when there is visible pit corrosion, and the degree that crevice corrosion can spread.  This may not directly be about knives, or san-mai cladding, but Brion has dealt for decades with failed stainless steel boat fittings and knows quite a bit from first hand personal handling of stainless steel part failure patterns.

The importance of this is that there may be microscopic internal corrosion damage in the blade's core layer.  That damage might be seen later in subsequent mechanically-induced chipping, rather than the corrosion pitting we saw.  

Depending on when I return from Port Townsend, I'll let you know if I got to talk with Brion and what he says late Friday or on Saturday.

Galley Swiller


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## phaedrus (Dec 23, 2004)

Just to be clear- I'm not bagging on Kitchen Pig or saying s/he is a bad person. I'm just saying you shouldn't leave a knife, any knife, in water for two days.  Unless it's designed for salt water or scuba diving that's abuse.  I'm not an expert on steel but I know steel has iron in it, and iron will oxidize (especially in water).  Still, I think that knife can be fixed.  I've seen worse.


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## galley swiller (May 29, 2013)

I agree Phaedrus.  Leaving a knife in water for two days was the cause and something which should never be done.  And I sure don't want to dump on the OP - heck, personally I'm sure I've sure done a lot worse things.  And this is sure not the end of the world or even human civilization as we know it.

But this thread and its timing has opened up (at least to me) an opportunity to delve into a question of steel and corrosion damage - which I think can be of benefit to the forum. The new issue (at least as I would like to look into it) is...

To what extent can stainless steel suffer HIDDEN damage from corrosion?  And too what extent can that damage result in increased future risk of catastrophic edge damage (i.e., chipping)?

Going in to talk with Brion tomorrow means picking the brains of someone who has decades of direct first hand knowledge and hands-on real world experience with precisely the issues we are not experienced with - namely, salt water corrosion failure of stainless steel.

The world Brion lives in involves what can literally result in life-or-death situations.  If you're in the middle of an ocean voyage and a critical component fails, you can end up with the boat sinking underneath you.  That's definitely a "not good" situation and the type of personal risk that someone in a landside kitchen probably won't ever face.  

What Brion has seen and talked about is how hidden corrosion can result in catastrophic component failure - the type of failure where the component literally breaks in two, with almost no advance warning to the untrained eye.  And with the prevalence in modern use of stainless steels in rigging, that's where Brion's experience might help us understand what happens in our stainless steel knives.

I'm hoping to have a dialogue with Brion on this.  I think that it would be a valuable subject to follow.

However, I also realize that this is likely to be a "thread hijack" moment.  So, when I come back, I'll do it in a new thread, with a title probably something like "Delving into Stainless Corrosion", or something like that.  And with a subject that broad, I'm now suspecting it will take longer than a few hours or an extra day to report on.  So, it might be a few days or even a few weeks before I can get back to the forum with what I find.

Galley Swiller


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## galley swiller (May 29, 2013)

This is an update to yesterday's post and, unless someone else brings up something, probably the point where this thread is put to rest.

Master Rigger Brion Toss was not at the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival today, since he is out of town on business.  So, I obviously didn't have the chance to talk with him.

That means that my potential Unified Field Theory of Knife Corrosion is potentially stillborn, or at least in hibernation for the foreseeable future, if not for eternity.

Ah, well.  Such is life.  "The Best Laid Plans....."

Galley Swiller


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## pahi53 (Jul 13, 2013)

Galley Swiller said:


> This is an update to yesterday's post and, unless someone else brings up something, probably the point where this thread is put to rest.
> 
> Master Rigger Brion Toss was not at the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival today, since he is out of town on business. So, I obviously didn't have the chance to talk with him.
> 
> ...


Aloha to this Thread????

/img/vbsmilies/smilies/bounce.gif


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## harlock0083 (Feb 11, 2013)

Galley Swiller said:


> This is an update to yesterday's post and, unless someone else brings up something, probably the point where this thread is put to rest.
> 
> Master Rigger Brion Toss was not at the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival today, since he is out of town on business. So, I obviously didn't have the chance to talk with him.
> 
> ...


Its okay, its just rust anyway.


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## kitchenpig (Nov 10, 2010)

KnifeSavers: how much a service like that would cost? That knife was 130$, I think at this point I will get an another one  just to have a full collection again without any missing 
That was my favourite out of all, even though as somebody noticed here I barely used them.


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## pahi53 (Jul 13, 2013)

KitchenPig said:


> KnifeSavers: how much a service like that would cost? That knife was 130$, I think at this point I will get an another one /img/vbsmilies/smilies/smile.gif just to have a full collection again without any missing
> That was my favourite out of all, even though as somebody noticed here I barely used them.


After all that was said on this thread, and a lot of finger pointing at you for being careless and the BS from "Paul" will you be purchasing the Knife from Paul?

For $130, leaving the knife in a pot of fresh water and the damage that was done, some of the naysayers said was caused by the water (I don't believe that) I still maintain you bought a Dud! (euphemism for Crappy) knife. Good luck with the new one.


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## knifesavers (Oct 5, 2011)

KitchenPig said:


> KnifeSavers: how much a service like that would cost? That knife was 130$, I think at this point I will get an another one /img/vbsmilies/smilies/smile.gif just to have a full collection again without any missing
> That was my favourite out of all, even though as somebody noticed here I barely used them.


I would have you send that to Jon at Japanese Knife Imports as he specializes in J knives and get it fixed by him. He has special gear and goes to Japan to work with the knife makers.

http://www.japaneseknifeimports.com/about-knife-sharpening

He has many tricks up his sleeve to do major repairs on J knives.

Jim


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## phaedrus (Dec 23, 2004)

It won't be as good as new but it's certainly fixable.  If no one else will work on it shoot me a PM.


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