# The Times



## jim berman (Oct 28, 1999)

This grumpy gastronome rarely takes pleasure in collaborative or shared cook book efforts. Truly, a great cookbook is an individual work of self-expression that is muddled by, well, too many cooks in the kitchen. Often, a perfect collection of recipes and worthwhile food ideas are over spiced, overdone and dumbed-down by having too many creative efforts pulling one, poor, little book in entirely too many directions. Except for one.
The Chefs of the Times is voluminous confabulation of talent from the indisputable premier chefs of our day. Rarely will this cook be so overwhelmed with so much culinary firepower that I must handle this particular book with care and concern. I mean, the contributors to The New York Times renowned Food section are legendary chefs that brandish their own, vast collections of culinary manuscripts that rate awards and high acclaim, but to have them in one volume of excellent reading is monumental.
I have had the pleasure of dining in some of the contributor’s restaurants. Understatement to say “pleasure”. Nirvana-like, maybe. Pure paradise, probably. So, to have a souvenir of the experience to remember the event is a real prize. Waldy Malouf’s Beacon rates among one of the best dining experiences on the east coast and then some! Mr. Malouf’s classic Potato Gratin, thankfully, made it into The Chefs of the Times. As did his Roasted Peaches and Blueberries. Absolutely phenomenal food. I am afraid to try to recreate his masterful work, knowing that any squalid attempt is pure mockery of this man’s art. Marcus Samuelsson’s Root Vegetable Risotto, too, is ethereal in its execution. At Aquavit in Manhattan, try his risotto Sea Bass, if it is available. Better yet, use The Chefs of the Times as a planner for your next holiday travel. Jean-Georges Crab Spring Rolls are here! So is Daniel Boulud’s Lobster with Sweet Corn Polenta. Pure, unadulterated heaven on a plate. These are just the stops in New York. There happens to be a little Trotter and Patrick O’Connell from Inn at Little Washington sprinkled amongst the pages. 
Michalene Busico has done an artful job of selecting the requisite standards from the contributors colored with some of their more extraordinary works. However, given the pool of talent from which The Chefs of the Times is culled, I am certain this was one of those pain-pleasure jobs. Short on pain and long on pleasurable dining.


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## kimmie (Mar 13, 2001)

I'm glad you like the book, Jim, 'cause I do to!


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## pete (Oct 7, 2001)

What a wonderful review Jim. But dammit, now I have to go out and buy another cookbook! Thanks!!! LOL!!!!


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## isa (Apr 4, 2000)

Loved your review Jim, it’s so eloquent. You are right it is a fantastic book to cook from and to read. Will you try Philippe Conticini’s cigar & chocolate sundae?


Kimmie I am so glad you changed your mind about this book, couldn’t understand why you didn’t like it.


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## kimmie (Mar 13, 2001)

The cigar & chocolate sundae, I guess! It left a really bad taste in my mouth...


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## jim berman (Oct 28, 1999)

Glad to see so many others have this in their collections. And yes, Pete, you _will_ need this one... it is a fun read!
Isa & Pete (again) thanks for the comments on the review... I try to please the ChefTalk audience!!! They can be a tough bunch


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