# new cutting board need help!!



## mrbushido (Apr 24, 2014)

https://www.kitchn.no/Default.aspx?Cat=178&Id=27554. Got this shit in bamboo that wrecks my knifes and leaves splinters etc everywhere no matter how much i oil and wax it....

Anyone got some really god cutting boards to recomend thats very gentle on my knives??


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## millionsknives (Apr 25, 2014)

Bamboo is not really a wood, but a hard grass. That board at least is bigger pieces of bamboo, so I'm thinking less glue. The glue is what is tough on knives usually. Since your board has more bamboo, I'm not surprised that your super sharp, hard japanese steels are cutting pieces of bamboo off. I'm not sure what is available in Norway with decent shipping charges.

The FAQ from BoardSmith is a good guide for choosing quality end grain boards.

http://theboardsmith.com/boardsmith-faqs/

Basically you want an end grain board with a wood that has a tight grain structure. There are all ranges of prices for this. I'm using the catskill board from amazon.


It's decent quality. I maintain it with my mix of 5:1 mineral oil: beeswax. It hasn't cracked on me yet. I do wish the squares were bigger. If you're the handy type, you can look into making your own.

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/how-to-make-a-butcher-block-cutting-board/

I'm going to at least 5 weddings next summer so everyone is getting one of these


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## mrbushido (Apr 24, 2014)

Sendt david a mail about shipping  is the catskill as good?


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## millionsknives (Apr 25, 2014)

I haven't used more expensive ones to compare.  It's certainly easy on knives.  The end grain splits apart as you cut and then comes back together.  I don't even see cut marks in mine yet and it's been over a year.  Boardsmith and Boos certainly make pretty looking boards with some interesting patterns.  Even if my catskill cracks, which I don't think it will, because I wax/oil it weekly, I could buy 3 of these for the same price.

I couldn't justify spending $300 on a board that I know costs about $50 in parts to make.  $110 to not buy tools or do any work seemed okay.


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## mrbushido (Apr 24, 2014)

Okay the carolina slab im eyeballing is 178 bucks


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## millionsknives (Apr 25, 2014)

That's cheap for a boardsmith.  The catskill at 3" x 20" x 20" is heavy!  I can feel it in my back when I lift it.  2" should be more managable.


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## mrbushido (Apr 24, 2014)

Its at his site  think the catskill is as good quality?


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## millionsknives (Apr 25, 2014)

The catskill is made from smaller squares of wood are smaller so there's more glue, more points of failure that could crack.  Then again, I don't see a 3" thick board cracking easily.  It is not pre soaked in mineral oil like the boardsmith, so it needs to be saturated with mineral oil on arrival.

The maple boardsmith just looks okay to me.  I wish it had some darker colors in there to mix it up.  It comes down to what you are willing to pay for a cutting board.  My limit was around $100.  More money for knives and stones...


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## mrbushido (Apr 24, 2014)

Jepp looks arent important having a good board is for me that will last for years got all knives and stones i need also


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## mrbushido (Apr 24, 2014)

So boardsmith is good quality?


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## millionsknives (Apr 25, 2014)

Boardsmith is highly regarded.  I think he's up at the top, even higher than Boos. 

If you're looking at something just to get by, the sani-tuff boards are rubber boards that you can sand down if they get cut marks in them.  A lot of pro kitchens like them because you can throw it in the dishwasher.  They do get dirty looking over time.  I prefer wood.


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## mrbushido (Apr 24, 2014)

Ok hmm like the looks of boardsmith just hope that shipping dont kills me hehe


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## mrbushido (Apr 24, 2014)

Anyone here got a boardsmith?


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## tweakz (May 10, 2014)

Acacia is about the same hardness as bamboo, but it is nicer to knife edges for not having as much silica. Acacia has voids that can require filler. End grain acacia don't need to be as thick as maple boards and can make rock chopping with a sharp knife nice and smooth. They appear to be far less prone to cracking. If you're looking for a budget end grain board; I'd consider acacia which makes for a beautiful board with it's dark and light spots, but it is considered on the slightly overly hard side.

If money isn't as much an issue; Boardsmith and Boos end grain male are great. I don't think they even deal with any woods that aren't ideal, but more careful maintenance should be followed.


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## mrbushido (Apr 24, 2014)

Okay thank you  anyone here got a boardsmith any experiences with them?


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## galley swiller (May 29, 2013)

I've had good experience with the 15 inch square by 2 inch thick end grain Michigan Maple Block boards/chopping blocks and have bought 4 of them.  Regular price including shipping from the factory is around $70, though I have been able from time to time find and buy them for as low as $45.  The wood is hard northern maple and grain pattern is fairly tight (after all, they are local sourcing it in Michigan, where long and cold winters make for tight ring patterns).  Shipping is direct from MMB.

The only problem I have ever had was when I changed address and then ordered a new board from one of their authorized sellers.  MMB relied on "Auto-Fill" in their word processing address labeling and sent it to my old address.  While I was a bit irate about that (before ordering, I had made sure I had properly updated all of my address information) and had to go 50+ miles to retrieve the wayward board, MMB 'fessed up to the mistake and sent me a bottle of Emmet's Elixir as a consolation make-up item.

Galley Swiller


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## mrbushido (Apr 24, 2014)

Okay and thats end grain? As good as boardsmith?


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## millionsknives (Apr 25, 2014)

Wow nice find! 
I might get one for my parents house. Tired of using small plastic cutting boards when I visit.


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## galley swiller (May 29, 2013)

Yes, it is end grain.  Since I have never had a BoardSmith board, I can't make comparisons.

And the one shown offered in Amazon (as linked by MillionKnives) is the one that I have ordered in the past.

Only possible quibbles are 1) this board will require oiling (I have used ordinary food grade mineral oil - Safeways has that for $3.49 for a 16 fl oz bottle - and have put almost a full pint into one of these boards); and 2) the free shipping is probably only good in the USA.

Galley Swiller


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## tweakz (May 10, 2014)

Boardsmith uses a brick style layout for it's boards, where the one on Amazon has some glue seems aligned with square or cube pieces. I've read that the brick layout is more durable, but I think selection of maple may be more important? (maple trees grown on flat land instead of steep hills). Boardsmith also states "select maple". Also on BS: 'Fully oiled with USP grade mineral oil and waxed prior to packaging'.

Though there's no ratings on the board on Amazon; the board maker has some great ratings on it's other boards, and the seller has great ratings as well.

I personally wouldn't want a square board; counter tops are rarely square, and we tend to move stuff on the board from side to side. Given the price though; I'm tempted to order one anyway.


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## mrbushido (Apr 24, 2014)

Okay hmm very tempted on boardsmith


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## ordo (Mar 19, 2009)

I really wonder if end grain boards are a necessity or an esthetic whim.


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## jake t buds (May 27, 2013)

ordo said:


> I really wonder if end grain boards are a necessity or an esthetic whim.


Absolutely a necessity in my opinion. For the same reason cutting firewood is done on a log's end grain, not on side grain.


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## tweakz (May 10, 2014)

You could buy 10 knives and spend well over 1k on them but they'll all use the same board and stones.  I wouldn't say 'necessity'; I would say a wise choice if you have expensive knives and use a board a lot. It will add to your edge retention which is part of why you buy a good knife.


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## mrbushido (Apr 24, 2014)

Okay any experiences with boardsmith here?


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## tweakz (May 10, 2014)

http://www.cheftalk.com/t/70630/the-boardsmith-boards & http://www.cheftalk.com/t/78803/cutting-board-for-boardsmith

You can also learn a lot from reading his posts here: http://www.cheftalk.com/u/26979/the-boardsmith


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## mrbushido (Apr 24, 2014)

Thanks bro


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## galley swiller (May 29, 2013)

tweakz said:


> Boardsmith uses a brick style layout for it's boards, where the one on Amazon has some glue seems aligned with square or cube pieces. I've read that the brick layout is more durable, but I think selection of maple may be more important? (maple trees grown on flat land instead of steep hills). Boardsmith also states "select maple". Also on BS: 'Fully oiled with USP grade mineral oil and waxed prior to packaging'.
> 
> I personally wouldn't want a square board; counter tops are rarely square, and we tend to move stuff on the board from side to side. Given the price though; I'm tempted to order one anyway.


The individual end-grain blocks are glued up in strips and trimmed before the strips are glued into a board. Of the boards I have bought, I have not seen any overlap where two adjoining strips have their seams match. Thus, the potential problem of two blocks on separate strips having their seams open together just shouldn't happen (and I have yet to hear of that happening on such a board).

If you examine the (not quite detailed) picture on Amazon, you will see that there are strips and that they do not align the glue line transversely with their neighboring strips.

Certainly, selection of maple is important. Wood which is grown in ideal situations has well-defined and well spaced growth rings - Just the thing I would not necessarily want. I can recall listening to a violin maker tell a forum how he wanted wood from a particular storm-swept hillside - specifically because the wood would be grown under difficult circumstances, would then have a very tight grain structure and would therefore be much denser than wood grown in a sheltered situation.

For the BoardSmith to offer a board which is fully oiled is just good customer service and thus a good business practice. However, for those of us who cannot afford his (very good) products, oiling the boards ourself in exchange for a lower price can be worth the trade-off.

Countertops may not necessarily be square, but regular lower kitchen cabinetry is usually at least 18 inches in depth - more than the 15 inches needed.

Galley Swiller


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## tweakz (May 10, 2014)

> Wood which is grown in ideal situations has well-defined and well spaced growth rings - Just the thing I would not necessarily want. I can recall listening to a violin maker tell a forum how he wanted wood from a particular storm-swept hillside - specifically because the wood would be grown under difficult circumstances, would then have a very tight grain structure and would therefore be much denser than wood grown in a sheltered situation.


The problem with wood grown on hills is that it can be denser on one side than the other. When the wood gets wet or goes through temperature changes; it causes more warping and stress (at least from what I've read from board makers and if I'm describing it right). If you want harder or denser wood; just use another tree variety?


> Countertops may not necessarily be square, but regular lower kitchen cabinetry is usually at least 18 inches in depth - more than the 15 inches needed.


I should have probably mentioned ergonomic, practical, roomier, or the bigger the board; the better. Square just isn't an ideal shape imo for most people (which is why they're rare), but the purchaser can easily discern what they want and need.


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## french fries (Sep 5, 2008)

ordo said:


> I really wonder if end grain boards are a necessity or an esthetic whim.


They're neither, but they feel better when cutting, they're definitely easier on your knife's edge, they're more durable and more sanitary. 


> From: http://theboardsmith.com/hello-world-2/
> 
> Types of Cutting Boards
> 
> ...


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## galley swiller (May 29, 2013)

tweakz said:


> The problem with wood grown on hills is that it can be denser on one side than the other. When the wood gets wet or goes through temperature changes; it causes more warping and stress (at least from what I've read from board makers and if I'm describing it right). If you want harder or denser wood; just use another tree variety?.


Assuming the wood is of the same species and there is reasonable care in the control of moisture content after the tree is harvested, then the differences of density of wood is generally a product of the density of the tree ring growth pattern. Yes, a tree growing on a hillside can have a different growth pattern from the downhill side of the tree to the uphill side, but I'm not all that sure as to how hilly Michigan is. However, the weather patterns in Michigan involve very cold and prolonged winters, and that is a detrimental factor in idealized tree ring growth patterns (from the viewpoint of growing trees quickly). For that reason, such "distressed" wood would have tight grain patterns and would be harder than wood from the same species from more moderate climates. That's a reason that northern-grown maple is much preferred over southern-grown maple for cutting boards.

Properly dried wood generally doesn't go through that much change in dimensions during temperature changes unless it has inadvertently soaked up unintended water. That's why there are such procedures as air drying under shelter, visual inspection and moisture meters.

For warping and splitting after the board is made (provided it was properly manufactured in the first place, with quality control and proper selection), then that's why cutting boards and chopping blocks have treatment from mineral oil and proprietary formula treatments. It's to place such mineral oil in the capillaries of the wood so as to prevent undesired water moisture from entering the capillaries.

As for just buying a board made from another tree variety, you're just going to face the same issues about individual tree growth.

Galley Swiller


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