# New chef knife



## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

hi so I've been using my victorinox fibrox 8 inch for sometime now and I want to change into something longer and have a better edge so I would like some recommendations.
I have:
1) big hands
2) prefer light and thin knives ( French and I would like to try gyutos)
3) longer than 8 inches
4) I do know how to sharpen knives, my fibrox is sharper than globals
5) I know the basic knife skills
6) I'm in Malaysia


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## chefwriter (Oct 31, 2012)

I'm a big fan of Sabatier. They can be ordered online if you don't have them in your area. A ten inch should do the trick.

     They run around $100-$125 if I remember correctly. Carbon steel so you have to keep them dry. Retain an edge well, easy to sharpen and for me a pleasure to use.


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## rick alan (Nov 15, 2012)

The Hiromoto aus-10 is still available, very good reports on this discontinued item, very good steel, nice thin edge geometry.

http://www.japanesechefsknife.com/Hiromoto.html#Hiromoto

Their JCK special Carbonext is a very good value, semi-stainless and gets very sharp, the factory edge is lousy but you could easily fix that.

You can take a look at the JCK originals and the Misonos also.

Rick


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## millionsknives (Apr 25, 2014)

First off.. are you looking for carbon or stainless?


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

MillionsKnives said:


> First off.. are you looking for carbon or stainless?


I'm looking for stainless


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Rick Alan said:


> The Hiromoto aus-10 is still available, very good reports on this discontinued item, very good steel, nice thin edge geometry.
> http://www.japanesechefsknife.com/Hiromoto.html#Hiromoto
> 
> Their JCK special Carbonext is a very good value, semi-stainless and gets very sharp, the factory edge is lousy but you could easily fix that.
> ...


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Rick, thanks for the recommendation will check them out soon. What do you think of tojiro dp and the Mac mbk series?


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## rick alan (Nov 15, 2012)

I'm not personally familiar with them but I think Benuser and others would say they were all pretty close on the whole, except the Mac Mighty which is a heavyweight I believe.

There are some recent posts on http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/ that you might find helpful in terms of both buying and choosing a Japanese knife, but their site seems to be having trouble right now.

Rick


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## spoiledbroth (Sep 25, 2014)

I'm pretty sure mac ultimate (overpriced) is the heaviest knife, mac mighty is so named I believe simply because it gets a bolster and consequently has a bit of a weight jump from the (superior I think is the next step down) previous line. Mac Mighty is also now sold under the name mac professional, I'm not sure if new knives are stamped "mighty" anymore. Or maybe it's a market thing, ie one market is mac mighty, but in another the same product is mac professional. Who knows.


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## cheflayne (Aug 21, 2004)

cysoon said:


> What do you think of tojiro dp and the Mac mbk series?


Just for the record, I am not a knife geek, but I am a chef with many years of experience and fairly mad knife skills. I have had a MAC MBK-110 for a couple of years now. I use it for at least 90% of my knife work. I used it Saturday for slicing 100# of grilled veg, cutting 18 qts of grapes in half, peeling and skinning 12 beef tenderloins, etc. etc. etc. I love my MAC. It is light enough, but yet heavy enough. It holds an edge and is easy to sharpen when needed. I would buy it again in a heartbeat.


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## gladius (May 26, 2015)

cysoon, what's your price range? Do you have a preference between Western-style "yo" handles and Japanese-style "wa" handles?

Since you want stainless and better edge taking than your Victorinox Fibrox (whose alloy is X50CrMoV15), you'll want to look almost exclusively at Japanese-style knives [1]. Virtually no European knife makers use better alloys than X50CrMoV15, and many use worse.

I take that back. The new "200 Range" from K-Sabatier allegedly uses an alloy called 14C28N [2], hardened to ~60 HRC. The alloy's reputation seems to be that it has comparable edge properties to 13C26/AEB-L but a little more corrosion resistance [3]. I have no clue if that reputation happens to apply to its use in this particular knife, but if heat treatment, geometry, and weight are comparable to good Japanese knives, this could be the first high end European stainless knife I've come across. That said, the 10-inch / 250mm chef's knife costs 161 USD (as of today), so it's not the bargain that French knives normally are compared with Japanese.

Since the Mac Professional/MBK series is on your radar, I'm assuming it's in your price range. If so, the MBK-95 is by all accounts an excellent all around stainless knife, and the MBK-110 that cheflayne praised might be tough enough for those heavier duty tasks that Japanese knives normally don't do well with, along with general purpose tasks if you're okay with the extra length and weight. cheflayne, has your knife seen squash? Small bones by any chance?

I'm not sure how shipping to Malaysia would work, but you might also want to check out the stainless Gesshin Uraku from Japanese Knife Imports if you're okay with wa handles. Both the 240mm and the 270mm are less expensive than the Mac MBK-95 and probably of similar toughness to the MBK-110. I'd guess that means handles winter squash well but bone not so much.

You asked about the Tojiro DP. The blade, like Shun knives, has three layers of steel ("san mai") with a core of VG-10, an alloy with the reputation of being chippy (unless heat treated by Hattori a là the Hattori FH) and sometimes difficult to deburr, but with pretty good edge properties for a stainless alloy. Some people don't like the feel of san mai knives as compared with knives made from a single layer of steel. I haven't used the knife, and I have virtually no experience with VG-10 or san mai knives in general. Some people find the handle on the Tojiro DP uncomfortable. I imagine the Tojiro's grind and overall F&F are worse than those of the Gesshin or Mac. The Tojiro DP represents pretty good value and can certainly take a sharp edge, but I wouldn't suggest it for your main knife if you can afford something more comfortable and with better cutting performance.

Lastly, if your budget happens to be considerably higher than the Mac, and if you're interested in something super light and thin, there are some phenomenal stainless and semi-stainless knives in the "laser" category, such as the Gesshin Ginga and Konosuke HD.

[1] CKtG's Richmond knives use modern alloys and are manufactured in the US, so they're technically not Japanese knives. Same goes for some high end custom knives. But these are Japanese in style--they don't have any distinguishing characteristics that make them resemble Western knives more than they do Japanese.

[2] The only source I can find for K-Sabatier using this alloy in the 200 Range is this German blog post: <http://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?127483-Review-K-Sabatier-200-Jahre-8-Generationen-7-inch>. It seems like the only information K-Sabatier has disclosed about the alloy is that it contains nitrogen, which seems to be what led people to suspect Sandvik's 14C28N. A bit of googling reveals that a single page for a different knife on K-Sabatier's American website does mention 14C28N (http://www.sabatier-shop.com/2912-j...-ivory---damascus-bolsters-j-p-veisseyre.html), so I imagine those forum members are on to something.

[3] http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/813117-13C26-vs-14c28n


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## rick alan (Nov 15, 2012)

Surprisingly I have never heard a bad report of Tojiro's VG10 which is a more difficult steel to heat treat, but dozens of complaints about Shuns on this forum alone, by several pros also who have seen a lot of them.  VG10 has the characteristic of loosing its razor sharp quickly, but then holding a serviceable edge for a good amount of time.  It is not an alloy that turns me on personally though.

Rick


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Gladius, I don't want to specify my price range because my currency is much smaller compared to usd. 1 USD = RM3.75 
I'm fine with the handle as long as it's comfortable to use with the pinch grip. If possible I would not want to buy online because items over USD 133 would require import tax and a big hassle to pick it up at the customs at the airport. Anything higher maybe when I have more money but right now I need a tough and reliable workhorse. Thanks for your opinion


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## cheflayne (Aug 21, 2004)

> Originally Posted by *Gladius*
> 
> cheflayne, has your knife seen squash? Small bones by any chance?


Seen and even cut. As far as small bones, to do what? I cut up whole fish and poultry.


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Rick Alan said:


> Surprisingly I have never heard a bad report of Tojiro's VG10 which is a more difficult steel to heat treat, but dozens of complaints about Shuns on this forum alone, by several pros also who have seen a lot of them. VG10 has the characteristic of loosing its razor sharp quickly, but then holding a serviceable edge for a good amount of time. It is not an alloy that turns me on personally though.
> 
> Rick


Well Rick what are the steels that can turn you on? And what are your personal favorite knives that you held and used?


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## millionsknives (Apr 25, 2014)

Out of stainless I've had good experiences with swedish stainless, AUS 10 and G3.  I've sharpened a few different makers of VG-10.  Don't like it at all.


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## rick alan (Nov 15, 2012)

Don't get me wrong Cysoon, I think VG10 works well were you have the need for a knife that holds a serviceable edge for a long time.  But my desire is for steels that hold a very sharp edge as long as possible, and/or get that edge back very quickly, but I much prefer the former.  I'm not afraid of VG10, the Shun I had sharpened easy enough, from the heel to 2/3 the way to the tip, the tip was obviously heat-damaged in the factory sharpening process

Right now I have a Geshin Kagero knife in SRS-15, a powdered metallurgy supersteel.  This knife is very similar to the Akifusa, but has a better grind.  I only just removed the factory edge, so it will be a while before I have first hand experience of its abilities, other than it takes a very sharp edge for stainless and gets only good feedback from those who've used it.  The Geshin Kagero 240 Gyuto is reasonably priced at $230USD, but the trip from the States combined with you tariff counts it out for you.

I'll reflect Millions and Benuser in saying if I were in your shoes I'd go for the Hiromoto AUS 10 from JCK, which beats your tariff, or the carbonext which also comes in under 133.  But I'd still be happy with the Tojiro or Mac.

Rick


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Rick Alan said:


> Don't get me wrong Cysoon, I think VG10 works well were you have the need for a knife that holds a serviceable edge for a long time. But my desire is for steels that hold a very sharp edge as long as possible, and/or get that edge back very quickly, but I much prefer the former. I'm not afraid of VG10, the Shun I had sharpened easy enough, from the heel to 2/3 the way to the tip, the tip was obviously heat-damaged in the factory sharpening process
> 
> Right now I have a Geshin Kagero knife in SRS-15, a powdered metallurgy supersteel. This knife is very similar to the Akifusa, but has a better grind. I only just removed the factory edge, so it will be a while before I have first hand experience of its abilities, other than it takes a very sharp edge for stainless and gets only good feedback from those who've used it. The Geshin Kagero 240 Gyuto is reasonably priced at $230USD, but the trip from the States combined with you tariff counts it out for you.
> 
> ...


So do VG sharpens like stainless? And with a decent stones is it just like any other steel or is it slightly different? I'd never used VG before so I'm not sure about how well it sharpens and how well it holds its edge. Ohh and what do you mean by "serviceable edge"?


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## rick alan (Nov 15, 2012)

I have only sharpened one VG10 knife, and like I said 2/3 of it sharpened much like any other "good" stainless knife and razor sharp, but 1/3 was simply impossible to sharpen to any king of reasonable edge. If Millions and Benuser say they don't like to sharpen it, then I have to say that most VG's are considerably more trouble to sharpen.

By serviceable edge I mean an edge that is not razor sharp, but still sharp enough to get the job done well, though not exceptionally well. VG10 can get screaming sharp, but it just doesn't stay at that level for very long, but it will stay serviceable for a considerable period longer than many other alloys.

Rick


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## brianshaw (Dec 18, 2010)

I have 5 VG10 blades and they aren't the easiest to sharpen but not much more difficult than German stainless. Ricks observation of going from screeming sharp to serviceable is my experience too, but I only need serviceable sharp so it works for me. If I want to do surgery I want screaming sharp but for cooking serviceable sharp is fine. Mine touches a stone only once a month or so. The rest of the time I rub gently on a smooth steel.


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## brianshaw (Dec 18, 2010)

P.s. For me the difference between serviceable and dull is an over-ripe tomato. And I prefer to shave with either a straight razor or double edge, but never a chef knife.


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Rick Alan said:


> I have only sharpened one VG10 knife, and like I said 2/3 of it sharpened much like any other "good" stainless knife and razor sharp, but 1/3 was simply impossible to sharpen to any king of reasonable edge. If Millions and Benuser say they don't like to sharpen it, then I have to say that most VG's are considerably more trouble to sharpen.
> 
> By serviceable edge I mean an edge that is not razor sharp, but still sharp enough to get the job done well, though not exceptionally well. VG10 can get screaming sharp, but it just doesn't stay at that level for very long, but it will stay serviceable for a considerable period longer than many other alloys.
> 
> Rick


Ahh I see. What about handle wise for the knives you recommended? Are they comfortable for a big and tall guy like me?


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

BrianShaw said:


> I have 5 VG10 blades and they aren't the easiest to sharpen but not much more difficult than German stainless. Ricks observation of going from screeming sharp to serviceable is my experience too, but I only need serviceable sharp so it works for me. If I want to do surgery I want screaming sharp but for cooking serviceable sharp is fine. Mine touches a stone only once a month or so. The rest of the time I rub gently on a smooth steel.


What stones do you use for sharpening? Wouldn't a steel damage the VG10 weren't VG harder than normal steels?


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## brianshaw (Dec 18, 2010)

cysoon said:


> What stones do you use for sharpening? Wouldn't a steel damage the VG10 weren't VG harder than normal steels?


Natural Arkansas stones: Coarse (500#), medium (700#), fine (900#) and finer (3000# - I think)

Ribbed steels seem to do more harm than good but smooth steel seems to help. As I said, a gentle touch with the steel is all it takes. I cringe when I see folks rapidly smashing their blades on steels in a frantic uncontrolled manner... what a waste of time.


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## rick alan (Nov 15, 2012)

Arks would be a considerable expense for Cysoon to acquire, and there would be no sense in it of course.

Use the same waterstones you've been using all along.  I have a translucent Arkansas I use for finishing, just because it's what I have right now and it works (about 12K as the actual finish it leaves), but waterstones are much faster and won't damage the harder steels like arks can if the stones edges get chipped or you're not careful in general.  Touch up is up to you, whether stropping on a dry stone (not clay based though) or using a ceramic hone, or a smooth steel.

Rick


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## brianshaw (Dec 18, 2010)

Rick Alan said:


> Arks would be a considerable expense for Cysoon to acquire, and there would be no sense in it of course.
> 
> Use the same waterstones you've been using all along. I have a translucent Arkansas I use for finishing, just because it's what I have right now and it works (about 12K as the actual finish it leaves), but waterstones are much faster and won't damage the harder steels like arks can if the stones edges get chipped or you're not careful in general. Touch up is up to you, whether stropping on a dry stone (not clay based though) or using a ceramic hone, or a smooth steel.
> 
> Rick


Perhaps. But he asked what I used not what I think he should get. I assume he knows his wallet better than do we. 

I totally agree with the notion of using what one already has if it will work. One comment, though, on ceramic hone. I've not found it very useful for VG10 and prefer to straighten an edge with fine stone or smooth steel. Maybe I'm not using ceramic hone correctly but it seems to lead to a very short-lived result.


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Rick Alan said:


> Arks would be a considerable expense for Cysoon to acquire, and there would be no sense in it of course.
> 
> Use the same waterstones you've been using all along. I have a translucent Arkansas I use for finishing, just because it's what I have right now and it works (about 12K as the actual finish it leaves), but waterstones are much faster and won't damage the harder steels like arks can if the stones edges get chipped or you're not careful in general. Touch up is up to you, whether stropping on a dry stone (not clay based though) or using a ceramic hone, or a smooth steel.
> 
> Rick


Rick, what I use now are some cheap Chinese brand stones and a fine stone but I want to get my own sets for me to use only. What are some stones you would recommend that is affordable and durable?


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## brianshaw (Dec 18, 2010)

This is similar/same as what I use. Inexpensive ($25 - starting bid but I never checked the completed so don't know what the final prices are like) but shipping to you is about $50 on top of that.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arkansas-Tr...074?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d33c18bea

I bought mine from the guys who make them in Arkansas a long time ago. This one is 8 inch and mine is 10. Can't recall the price I paid but I think it was less than $50 USD

I've seen Chinese knockoffs that one of the big kitchen supply retailers sells for about twice this price. Interestingly, they actually looked pretty good to me... but I just looked and never tried them.


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## rick alan (Nov 15, 2012)

There are a number of reasons you want to stay away from Arks, especially the cheap ones, but main reason is they are just too damn slow, especially on the harder steels.  Much slower than even the Chinese slate stones you are very likely using if you are using Chinese natural waterstones.  For what it's worth, Brian and I have what could be called "vintage" Arks.  Today Hals is the only supplier I think that can still deliver similar quality, in terms of flaws or inclusions.  Some offer what are not even real Arks, but just crushed stone held together with a binder.

Iminishi is a very good and inexpensive stone that may be available to you, Bester and Beston are 2 others.  Niniwa super stones and King are cheap, but they cut slower and also wear much faster.  If you can get them 2 good stones by Niniwa are their Green Brick of Joy (2K) and Snow White (8K).

Iminishi and others make a number of combination stone:220/400, 400/1K, 1K/4K, 1K/6K, about in these ranges.  This route can keep down your initial investment, just make sure your are buying the full size 8"/205mm stones.

You should have a 400 or 500 for ordinary thinning and reprofiling, a 1k or 2k and a finishing stone.

Rick


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## brianshaw (Dec 18, 2010)

Yes, that's it... HALL sharpening stones. Thanks for resurrecting an old memory.

http://www.hallsharpstones.com/shop/accessories/arkansas-tri-hones/arkansas-tri-hone.html

This, however, is the place I knew and probably bought from:

http://www.naturalwhetstone.com/productssharpening.htm

I was unaware of fabricated stones but find that no surprise.


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## gladius (May 26, 2015)

If the main reason cysoon wants to upgrade from Victorinox is to get better edge taking, I don't think it makes sense to recommend using a medium-coarse stone for finishing. That provides a serviceable edge by European standards but definitely not the kind of sharp edge you'd expect from a Japanese knive.

cysoon, I'd like to echo everyone else's suggestion to go with the Hiromoto or Carbonext over the Tojiro if you're looking to spend less than the Mac. It's not that the Tojiro DP is bad, but from its use of VG-10 to its sanmai construction to its handles that some people find uncomfortable, I don't think it's really in the same league as the other two for your first *good* chef's knife. Also, both the Hiromoto and Carbonext are sold by JCK, which is said to have excellent shipping worldwide.

I'd go with the Hiromoto over the Carbonext since the Carbonext is said to often have such a bad edge out of the box (OOTB) that it requires reprofiling, which is a task you don't really want to do unless your sharpening is good enough that you trust it for coarse work. It's also nice to have a knife that's somewhat sharp out of the box if you haven't experienced Japanese-level sharpness before so that you have a point of reference. If you're confident enough with your sharpening to set a bevel, then you might want to check out the Carbonext since it uses a semi-stainless alloy that should take carbon-like edges and feel like carbon on stones.

By the way, if you can afford it (but only if that doesn't come at the expense of stones), I'd go with the Mac because the profile isn't as santoku-like as the Hiromoto, and it will likely have better grind, F&F, and OOTB sharpness than either knife.

As for stones, you really want at minimum (1) a coarse stone for occasional reprofiling, (2) a medium-coarse stone for sharpening, and (3) a medium-fine stone for polishing. The better the stones, the easier your life will be and the more you'll enjoy sharpening and the more you'll get around to keeping your knives sharp. I highly recommend skipping the entry waterstone tier and moving to the "very good performance at a pretty good value" tier. So we're not talking Gesshin or Chosera prices, but we do want to still have very good performance.

One of the best coarse stones that's also good value is the Beston 500. Examples of medium-coarse stones at a similar level of "very good performance but also good value" are the Bester 1200 and the Arashiyama 1k. Examples of medium-fine stones in that tier are the Arashiyama 6k and the Suehiro Rika "5k". I don't know how shipping would work, but CKtG has less expensive kits that combine the Beston 500, the Bester 1200, and the Suehiro Rika into one.

*If* you wanted to step up to even higher quality stones (and I'm not assuming you do!), the best value at the top tier is said to be the Gesshin stones at JKI. Jon Broida sells a kit of the Gesshin 400, Gesshin 2k (which cuts faster than most 1k stones), and Gesshin 6k. They're said to cut faster yet leave more refined edges than almost anything else at similar grit levels. I currently sharpen on an Edge Pro (so take all of my second-hand waterstone advice with a grain of salt!), but if and when I switch to freehand it will probably be to that Gesshin kit.


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## rick alan (Nov 15, 2012)

Speaking of sets, Toolsfromjapan have nice deals on 2 stone sets (near bottom of page), one meets the terrify restraints:

http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=335_404_403

They come with stone holder and diamond flattening plate. Of course any rough and reasonably flat surface can be used for flattening, but the diamond plate will cover for a course stone (the 800 would be recommended), that the sets don't come with.

Rick


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Thanks for the suggestions gladius, I'll take a look and decide it later


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Hi guys! Have you guys heard of whetstone a from a brand called sapphire?


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## galley swiller (May 29, 2013)

I have not heard of it.

The references I can find through Google suggest that this stone comes from China.  No product reviews seem to be available.  All purchase information I can find seem to suggest that the only sources are online from Chinese sources only.

The name "Sapphire" may be some sort of product information, since sapphires are essentially a crystalline form of aluminum oxide.

That's all I can figure out.

GS


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Hi all its me again, so I've decided to purchase the tojiro DP but unfortunately a dealer I can easily go to does not carry the DP series but they do carry PRO DP COBALT and color series so may I ask all you experts here to tell me what you guys know about these knives? Thanks


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## millionsknives (Apr 25, 2014)

Looks like same blade, same steel, different handle and more expensive.





  








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millionsknives


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Nov 18, 2015


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## bonesetter (Nov 11, 2015)

For the record, as this is a 'big hands knife' thread of sorts, I thought I would weigh in my 2c

I bought a Carbonext from reading threads here and have big hands - not XXL, but XL I would say, and the handle I find small and uncomfortable. I use near enough a pinch grip and still my little finger grips the end 'lip' (not sure of the correct name) of the handle

I am not a precision cutter, in fact a very armature home cook, but nevertheless. I prefer a bigger bellied rock chopping profile blade

The Robert Welch Signature (10") chef's I have has a long handle is a thing of joy to use. It holds its edge better than anything I have used (Victorinox 8" included), can easily use all of the blade and sharpens well (on a stone). The other knife I have is a Tim Malzer Kai Shun 9" which I also find fine

HTH's any big hands looking in


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## galley swiller (May 29, 2013)

MillionsKnives is right about the "Pro" DP line. Same blade (sanmai cladded construction), different handle, higher price and probably higher profit margins to the distributor and/or retailer.

I would not bother with the "color coded" knives. Plain old Molybdenum Vanadium steel may be okay for European quality knives, but aren't in the same quality range as VG-10 core steel knives.

You might want to look at Pete's Kitchenwares for the Tojiro DP 240 mm gyuto, Model F-809 at RM362.00. The website for the F-809 is: http://peteskitchenwares.com/product/f809-chef-knife/

Hope that helps.

Galley Swiller


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

bonesetter said:


> For the record, as this is a 'big hands knife' thread of sorts, I thought I would weigh in my 2c
> 
> I bought a Carbonext from reading threads here and have big hands - not XXL, but XL I would say, and the handle I find small and uncomfortable. I use near enough a pinch grip and still my little finger grips the end 'lip' (not sure of the correct name) of the handle
> 
> ...


Unfortunately, the knife choices in my country are very limited but thanks for the suggestion


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Galley Swiller said:


> MillionsKnives is right about the "Pro" DP line. Same blade (sanmai cladded construction), different handle, higher price and probably higher profit margins to the distributor and/or retailer.
> 
> I would not bother with the "color coded" knives. Plain old Molybdenum Vanadium steel may be okay for European quality knives, but aren't in the same quality range as VG-10 core steel knives.
> 
> ...


I'm fully aware of the link you gave as that was where I planned to get the Tojiro DP. There are only 2 dealers in my country, one the website you gave me and another which is very near to where I live. Maybe I'll ask if they can somehow get the Tojiro DP imported for me haha. I really wanted to hold the knife in person before purchasing and if I can't then I'll take a risk and buy it from peteskitchenware


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## rick alan (Nov 15, 2012)

How's the new job been going?

Rick


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Rick Alan said:


> How's the new job been going?
> 
> Rick


I love this job. It's tiring and I get cuts and burns all the time but I really do love it


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

So since for some reason I don't know how to post new posts anymore on my phone I'm just gonna resurrect this post. I've decided to get the tojiro pro dp due to it actually being cheaper and due to HACCP rules at my workplace. Now I'm looking for a knife guard that will fit the knife. Looking for something like Bisbell or the global knife guard. Again due to haccp rules cardboard and wood is out of the question


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Rick Alan said:


> How's the new job been going?
> An update for you Rick, completed my internship and was offered a permanent position in the main kitchen  already been working for two months
> 
> Rick


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## rick alan (Nov 15, 2012)

That's GREAT Cysoon!  I have a feeling you'll have your own place before you know it.

For guards you could probably find some Mylar sheets somewhere,  they can be folded, stapled following the edge profile and trimmed for some very serviceable guards.

Rick


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## foody518 (Aug 6, 2015)

Tojiro DP's a good knife. Hope you enjoy it!


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

So I bought and used the tojiro do for 2 weeks. OOTB edge is to me ok but when I sharpened it earlier it is crazy how sharp it can get and I'm sure I have not reached maximum sharpness yet! Overall I'm very happy with this knife. 
Sharpened on 1000 grit ceramic and a fine natural stone. Bought the king 4000 grit stone. Should be here in about 2-3 weeks. 
Burr is PITA to remove. Took me very long to remove it. Pulled through wooden cutting board, stropped on stones and newspaper. Burr is easy to form difficult to remove. Sharpened at approximately 10-12 degrees per side. 
Sliced through shallots, spring onion and even ginger with minimal force by using the weight of the knife itself and no resistance at all. 
Overall very happy with this knife and thank you to those who recommended this knife to me.


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## rick alan (Nov 15, 2012)

Yes VG-10 is a PITA to deburr, but using a Micro-bevel makes it much easier. First raise a burr at about 10deg, micro-bevel around 15+, even 20 is not too much. VG-10 holds an edge very much better at 15+, whether by design or accident it was essentially made to work in that range.

Great video for deburring


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## foody518 (Aug 6, 2015)

Seems to be the case for me as well. I've noticed a huge difference in edge durability/retention after easing the shoulders on my Tojiro with light thinning, then raising the bevel angle to around 15, was probably closer to 10 before.


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## millionsknives (Apr 25, 2014)

Yeah I use the J shape motion Jon shows in the video or simply a edge trailing stropping motion with lighter and lighter pressure. Knock off the burr on every stone before continuing. You shouldnt raise much burr from a finishing stone.


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Random question. Do you mind scratches on your knife? I personally do not mind them as I think that having it sharp is more important. 
Another question, how do you maintain the shape of your knife? As in the curve area?


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## foody518 (Aug 6, 2015)

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foody518


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Apr 26, 2016











  








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foody518


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Apr 26, 2016







I experiment with polishing some of my less fancy knives. Don't particularly like loads of scratches but I live with them. Having really coarse scratches on the blade (like thinning vs incidental sharpening scratches) matters more for carbon steel blades as those are harder to dry completely and therefore more prone to rust.
I use a marker/sharpie to help make sure I'm hitting the curve evenly during sharpening. I try to check and make sure the burr on the curved part of the edge is not significantly bigger or smaller than on the rest of the knife edge.


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## cysoon (Jun 3, 2015)

Did micro-beveling earlier on my tojiro and by touch I do feel a significant difference. Watched Jon from JKI and did only one side, will test them out at work tmr and see how different is the performance


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