# Warping cutting board



## Transglutaminase (Jan 9, 2019)

Hi all,
Got a screaming deal on an end cut beech board from Amazon, 17-1/2"x13-3/4"x1 1/4".
It had a "knife unfriendly" coating on it, sanded it off & oiled it (heavy mineral oil).
Cut up a pork leg on it, and it warped like h*ll.
Let it dry 2 weeks, added more oil, cut up more wet and it warped slightly, although not as much.
Let it dry for many more weeks & added more oil, it drank in almost 2 cups!
Scared to use it again with anything wet.
I've seen large butcher boards/blocks "bolted" with stainless threaded rod, to prevent the warping.
Opinions? Should I drill/bolt it, never use anything with liquids on it, or use it as firewood?
TIA!


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## foodpump (Oct 10, 2005)

The bolts on the larger blocks are there mainly to prevent separation of the joints if/when the glue fails on those joints.

If your board is cupped or twisted, it usually means unseasoned wood was used in its construction. 

Hypothetically, you could take the board to a wood shop and have them run it through a jointer on one surface to take the cup or twist out of it, and then through a thickness planer to have the other surface parallel to the first. But this would mean you would loose a lot of it’s thickness, and still no guarantees that the thing wouldn’t warp again.

Beech flavoured toasted marsmellows?


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## jimmer (Dec 4, 2016)

From your description, it warped when you cut up something wet/juicy on it. That's because the wood expands with moisture. You cut something on one side, so that side expanded, warping the board.

The cure? Moisten both sides equally. Wash it well, for instance, on both sides, and allow it to dry evenly. DO NOT leave it soaking in water, especially just one end. Instant disaster, it will split the board, either while soaking or after it dries.

The oil helps because it fills the spaces where the water would go, repelling it and keeping it from swelling. Oil it more, and don't wash off the oil.

—woodshop owner/restauranteer


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## Transglutaminase (Jan 9, 2019)

Thanks all! 
Yes, was letting let it dry in the heater room for a week or so..not much of a warp now (maybe ~1mm)
Might also try the beeswax/oil thing?..will keep it fairly warm/hot in the heater room to let the wax penetrate?


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## jimmer (Dec 4, 2016)

I wouldn't do anything special to dry it out, in fact, it's a bit better to avoid wet/dry cycles. Just use it on one side then the other.

There are other reasons it could warp, but they are more wood/technical than I'd get into on a cooking thread.


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## rick alan (Nov 15, 2012)

If you want a good end-grain board you have to pay for it. The cheapies most often don't hold up for long.

It should be of one of the approved woods, fully seasoned and of a high quality clear grade, and if mixed wood the selection has to have near identical density. Approved woods are cherry, maple, oak, walnut, and Japanese Cyprus (edge grain mostly). Beech is not used, neither should acacia, teak and least of all bamboo. BoardSmith is a premier maker here, I've never heard a complaint of their work. But Boos, that's another story, they don't honor their guarantee, and possibly don't offer one anymore.

Edge grain boards are less demanding, and you can do all right with a lot of bargains, but stick to approved woods.


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