# Mushy French Fries



## paxi (Oct 9, 2012)

Hi!

At my Fast Food Outlet - I'm trying to stop using pre made frozen fries and start making my own. I've come across this recipe: I've adapted this recipe to my needs and i'm following the same procedure on slightly thicker fries. However, a recurring problem has been that the fries remain quite *mushy *from the center.

What can possibly be causing this? Could it be that i'm boiling the fries a bit too much in the first step? What's the general cause of mushy fries? Any help would be much appreciated. The recipe is copied for your reference:

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[h2]Ingredients[/h2]

2 pounds russet potatoes (about 4 large), peeled and cut into 1/4-inch by 1/4-inch fries (keep potatoes stored in a bowl of water)
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
Kosher salt
2 quarts peanut oil

[h2]Procedures[/h2]

1

Place potatoes and vinegar in saucepan and add 2 quarts of water and 2 tablespoons of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 10 minutes. Potatoes should be fully tender, but not falling apart. Drain and spread on paper towel-lined rimmed baking sheet. Allow to dry for five minutes.

2

Meanwhile, heat oil in 5-quart Dutch oven or large wok over high heat to 400°F. Add 1/3 of fries to oil (oil temperature should drop to around 360°F). Cook for 50 seconds, agitating occasionally with wire mesh spider, then remove to second paper-towel lined rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with remaining potatoes (working in two more batches), allowing oil to return to 400°F after each addition. Allow potatoes to cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. Continue with step 3, or for best results, freeze potatoes at least over night, or up to 2 months.

3

Return oil to 400°F over high heat. Fry half of potatoes until crisp and light golden brown, about 3 1/2 minutes, adjusting heat to maintain at around 360°F. Drain in a bowl lined with paper towels and season immediately with kosher salt. Cooked fries can be kept hot and crisp on a wire rack set on a sheet tray in a 200°F oven while second batch is cooked. Serve immediately.


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## allanmcpherson (Apr 5, 2007)

What changes did you make? I always use a variation of this method, so I can tell you what I do differently:

Dont start the boiling in cold water, have the water at a rolling boil 
Waiting five minutes before the first fry is not nearly enough. You want then cold and dry, at least three hours in a fridge
How much bigger are you cutting the fries? Steak house size fries are trickier with this method, unless you are using something like a circulator.
I dont think boiling less is the problem, you really want to push them as far as you can, very nearly falling apart. They should break with a light pinch. Shocking them in ice is critical, and the trickiest part of the procedure to be honest. Thats where you run the biggest risk of breaking.

Al


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## paxi (Oct 9, 2012)

Thanks a lot for the reply!

I'll try by not starting off in cold water and will put them in running boiling water!


> What changes did you make? I always use a variation of this method, so I can tell you what I do differently:





> How much bigger are you cutting the fries? Steak house size fries are trickier with this method,


I'm tried everything from 1/4'' to 3/8'' with this recipe. Have had varying results. But mushiness generally tends to increase with the increase in size. 


> Shocking them in ice is critical, and the trickiest part of the procedure to be honest. Thats where you run the biggest risk of breaking.


When should i shock them in Ice? The recipe that i'm following doesn't state that 

Can you suggest an alternate method for the fries? I don't want thick steakcut fries ... just slightly thicker then the 1/4'' Mc Donald type would be fine.


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## millionsknives (Apr 25, 2014)

Interesting.  I've never boiled in water before, that doesn't get too much moisture?

The way I do it is to cut the fries, and keep them in cold water until I'm ready to fry so they don't oxidize.  Dry thoroughly, then par cook at 325F. 

I take them out and let them cool on a drying rack.  You can hold them at this state for a few hours if you need to.

Before serving, I fry a second time at 375-400F.


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## chefbuba (Feb 17, 2010)

I do about 50 lbs a day, cut, soak, rinse, drain, initial fry approx 8 min @ 325 soft no color just starting to firm, cool and fry to order @ 350-375


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## millionsknives (Apr 25, 2014)

I would guess that after I drop the fries in on the 2nd fry, my oil temp will drop to 350-375 like @chefbuba is doing. If you have an industrial size fryer with a larger mass of oil, this is less of an issue. I'm doing smaller batches.


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## chefbuba (Feb 17, 2010)

My fryer is full size gas, initial fry is with FULL baskets.


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## millionsknives (Apr 25, 2014)

As a home cook, I'm kinda jealous!


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## allanmcpherson (Apr 5, 2007)

Use the ice to "stop" the cooking, and help set the starch in the potato. Carry over cooking in this method will leave you with a sheet pan of mashed potato. If you are not cooking the spuds to an extent where this is a concern, then you are not taking them far enough. I have played with this a lot and from my experience, if you dont cook them that much, there is no point and you would be better off saving the time and doing the conventional blanch in moderate oil, finish in hot method.

The triple cook, to my mind, gives you A+ fries. They are super crisp, and almost like mashed potato inside. They also stay crisp really well, so for any poutine, chili cheese fries type of thing, it works really well. 

That said, the regular way of doing fries is still a great method. Unless you want to offer boutique fries, or expect small volumn, it might not be the best fit for our operation. 

Al


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## ordo (Mar 19, 2009)

For a twist if you want bigger fries, you can try par boiling the potatos in a bag (a replacement cause i do not have a vacuum machine) and then fry in 1 or 2 ssteps..





  








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The whole idea here:


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## cheffred (Aug 25, 2014)

In all of my professional cooking life I've never boiled fries in water.

I guess you learn something new everyday

Keep it simple,just as some of the above threads suggested for blanching fries in oil.

Cut your chips

Soak in cold water to remove starch

Blanch in 300F oil

cool on sheet pans in fridge

For service [email protected]

Season and serve


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## petalsandcoco (Aug 25, 2009)

Paxil : that's a lot of work for fries and I have never in my life boiled potatoes just to make fries. *Your mushy fries just might stem from being over cooked. *

I make my fries the way Fred does , never a problem .

After you soak your fries make sure they are soaked good so all the starch is off , blanch in oil, second fry at 350-375.


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## paxi (Oct 9, 2012)

petalsandcoco said:


> Paxil : that's a lot of work for fries and I have never in my life boiled potatoes just to make fries. *Your mushy fries just might stem from being over cooked. *
> 
> I make my fries the way Fred does , never a problem .
> 
> After you soak your fries make sure they are soaked good so all the starch is off , blanch in oil, second fry at 350-375.


Yes it is a lot of work!

Just a question, how thick are the fries that you make this way? 


chefbuba said:


> I do about 50 lbs a day, cut, soak, rinse, drain, initial fry approx 8 min @ 325 soft no color just starting to firm, cool and fry to order @ 350-375


Same question to you as well Sir. How thick are the fries that you make this way ?


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## petalsandcoco (Aug 25, 2009)

3/8 inch . 

Cooking it the way that has been mentioned just gives it that perfect crisp on the outside. 

I tip my hat to you for trying to make the perfect fry.


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## millionsknives (Apr 25, 2014)

I cook it the way I described probably 95% of the time.  Sometimes though, I want that simple dirty greasy fry that's kind of soggy.  That's also a perfect fry, but for reasons of nostalgia.  Cut, then drop it in at 350 the whole time.  Don't clean the skin too well, so it tastes a little dirty, like a potato should.


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## paxi (Oct 9, 2012)

haha thanks.

For those asking about the use of boiling the potatoes with vinegar. It apparently helps the spice in crisping up better.

More from the guru, kenji here:

http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives...ake-perfect-mcdonalds-style-french-fries.html


> The fries boiled in plain water disintegrated, making them nearly impossible to pick up. When I added them to the hot oil, they broke apart even further. On the other hand, *those boiled in the vinegared water remained perfectly intact,* even after boiling for a full ten minutes. When fried, they had fabulously crisp crusts with tiny, bubbly, blistered surfaces that stayed crisp even when they were completely cool.


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## wlong (Aug 2, 2011)

Here is some interesting reading:

http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives...ake-perfect-mcdonalds-style-french-fries.html


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## chefbuba (Feb 17, 2010)

paxi said:


> Yes it is a lot of work!
> 
> Just a question, how thick are the fries that you make this way?
> 
> Same question to you as well Sir. How thick are the fries that you make this way ?


I use a mandolin, wide open.





  








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## ordo (Mar 19, 2009)

You can also try the cold oil method, which gives very easy crispy fries in a snap. Click the image.






  








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What oil or fat will influence the result, as well as the humidity of your city will influence the immediate crispiness.


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## paxi (Oct 9, 2012)

Okay - so i did a few iterations. Mushiness isn't that big of a problem as the oil content/grease in the fries is!

I did a side by side comparison with ready made Mc Cain fries and my home made fries (in their final stage). Both were cooked in the same fryer, side by side. The homemade fries come out to be FAR more greasy and it seems like they've absorbed oil on the inside. What can i do to rectify this?


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## grande (May 14, 2014)

Whats your method now?


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## paxi (Oct 9, 2012)

it's the same. I'm now just putting them in hot/near boiling water rather then heating the water after placing the cut potatoes inside it. 

Perhaps before they were just as greasy but i hadn't done a side by side comparison with the pre frozen fries. Any idea how to make them less oily?


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## ordo (Mar 19, 2009)

Why don't you try the fry-fry method for a change? No water at all.


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## grande (May 14, 2014)

The thing about your frozen fries is that they probably get a water blanch too; the method is supposed to help crisp them up. But in my experience house made fries tend to go greasy fairly quickly. 
Are you following the whole procedure there? Water blanch, chill, oil blanch, freeze, and final cook? How long are putting them in the water for?


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## chefbuba (Feb 17, 2010)

My fries are crispy (most of the time), depends on the spuds that I get. They are never greasy. Twice fry method only. You can't control a water blanch well enough to get a consistent product.


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## genemachine (Sep 26, 2012)

Listen to Master Chefbuba. He's the man. Twice fry only. If they get oily, the temperature of your oil dropped.


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## paxi (Oct 9, 2012)

chefbuba said:


> My fries are crispy (most of the time), depends on the spuds that I get. They are never greasy. Twice fry method only. You can't control a water blanch well enough to get a consistent product.


I tried the double fry only method as well. They were again greasier than the pre frozen fries and significantly less crispy then the 3 step fries.

Hmm ... i'm not based in the US or in the west hence the potato that i might be getting may be different from yours, can that lead to greasy fries?

Perhaps i'm not changing my oil often enough? that might be causing the grease? it doesn't smoke though at 400 F though.


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## genemachine (Sep 26, 2012)

Are you really sure about your oil temperatures?


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## kuan (Jun 11, 2001)

Wait, you are doing cubes?


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## oldschool1982 (Jun 27, 2006)

@paxi,

I'm not certain where you're from and I don't wish to assume you're in the states so.......here in the states, close to 30 years ago, we had a concept off-shoot of TGI Friday's called Dalt's. They had a terrific fry recipe that was eventually adopted at Friday's. Unfortunately it was never produced properly. Dalt's went out of business and Friday's eventually dropped it going for the crappy frozen fry. Just know that, if you do the steps, the fries turn out amazing.

Cut fries 5/16" juliene into a sink full of water. agitate and drain water. Transfer fries to A-Lexans or a Brute food storage container on wheels. Salad keeper bottom drain bin works best because of the drain spigot on the bottom. Either container should be filled with water over night and be certain to cover potatoes completely with water or discoloring will take place. You'll also find the water has turned a reddish brown over night. This is normal also, the starch will have settled to the bottom in a milky-white appearance.

The next morning, heat fryers to 275 deg. While fryers are heating, drain off the amount of potatoes you'll be prepping for the shift or day. Fill baskets of fryer 2/3rd's full. When oil has reached it's temp, drop fries for 3 minutes. Prepare another set of baskets and rotate them for 3 minutes. 3 minutes down and 3 minutes up twice for each set of baskets. The total cook/rest time is 6 minutes each. Allow to drain well and turn baskets out on parchment lined sheet trays. and cool on a maxi rack in cooler.

As a cautionary note.....when you return the fryers to 350, you may have water in the bottom of the kettle. It will splatter so the safest thing to is stand back and partially cover the kettle with a 1/2 sheet pan. Do not cover completely or you will trap the steam and create a bigger issue and cause the kettle to boil over. The degree this happens to is dependent on how many pound of fries you blanch and how well you drained the fries so the best method is to blanch fries per shift or have a set of fryers specifically for blanching.

When cooled, fries can be held at room temp throughout the rush. They are place in baskets no more than half full in 350 degree fryer until golden brown. Remove from grease, drain well and turn out into station salting immediately. Only cook the amount of fries you can use in 5 minutes or less.

Take note that 5 guy's burgers has one person dedicated to cook fries throughout the shift. This is the best example of how dedicated they are to the fry. However, they blanch and handle them differently and even though their product is rather good, there is too much of the sugar/starch remaining in the potato. This causes their fries are a bit more dark in color than I personally like or believe they should be but........to each their own.

No respectable fry (pomme frites or the like) is ever going to be crisp more than a few minutes out of the fryer. The really need to be produced, served and consumed quickly and in a reasonable amount of time or there will always be issues. This boiling process is something I cannot understand. Potatoes seem to have more water content these days because they are not cured as long as they once were. That's the other thing....cured potatoes. I would order these specifically for fries and potato chips. My experience has shown me they work the best. There should be a vendor that has them on his list. If not, you'll need to order more and store them for more time. Anyhow, boiling them adds water and opens the pores of the potato allowing more grease to enter. Basically you're breaking down the potato and since it already has a higher water content, it's amplified. I guess the best way to know if you have a properly aged potato.......it's shouldn't be too soft but it's feel should "give" just a bit when squeezed. There should also be no green what-so-ever when you scrub the potato! I would also suggest using A Utility Potatoes. These are typically Idaho Russets but aren't sized like a 60, 80 or 120 ct potato. They arrive in a 50# sack and not a box. They are also oddly shaped and don't look as nice as they should for a baked potato. Then again, you're cutting them so it really doesn't matter


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## kuan (Jun 11, 2001)

I just re-read his post.  It looks like he is doing 1/4"x1/4" dice.  If that were the case then I'd just straight toss them in the frier.


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## grande (May 14, 2014)

Yes the type of potato you get and it's starch/sugar content can very because of region.... and I think 400° is too hot on a deep fryer, you'll kill your oil in a day or two. That will make your food greasy.


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## steve tphc (Sep 18, 2012)

Some say the Belgium are the master's of fries and possibly they are:

see this link for Belgium fries (double fried).

I have to add my two cents. Blanching is to prevent discoloration and it should be brief. The potatoes should be *thoroughly *dry before your first frying. Fries need quick cooking and this limits their cross-section. Yukon Gold will give good results and they are a little stronger. The best oil will yield the best tasting fries. Adding peanut oil to olive will will increase the mixtures heat resistance while the olive oil helps with flavor. Crisp on the outside but tender on the inside is good criteria. Mushy is not a word that describes fries PERIOD.

Keep the batches small enough that the oil temperature does not apprecially droop. Keep oil temperature no higher than 375 F.


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## paxi (Oct 9, 2012)

Thanks a lot for the detailed recipe! @oldschool1982 .  I'm trying this today and will let you know how it turns out to be. 

Since almost all my recipes so far have involved double frying i think i need to focus on how well i de-grease my potatoes (get rid of the oil after the first try). Are there any tips if you're doing it on a large scale?


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## paxi (Oct 9, 2012)

chefbuba said:


> I do about 50 lbs a day, cut, soak, rinse, drain, initial fry approx 8 min @ 325 soft no color just starting to firm, cool and fry to order @ 350-375


How do you cool after the first fry? Can you freeze with this method after the first fry?

Also, how long do you initially soak the fries in the first step?


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## paxi (Oct 9, 2012)

Thanks a lot for the detailed recipe! @oldschool1982 . I'm trying this today and will let you know how it turns out to be.


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## chrisbelgium (Oct 2, 2010)

I'm a Belgian and we are known world-wide for our fries. Some time ago I posted how we make them here;

http://www.cheftalk.com/t/66217/in-search-of-the-perfect-french-fry#post_354015

This is what I posted then;

_- Choise of potatoes. This is imperative to make good frites. Look for potatoes with very little sugar in them! If they contain too much sugar, your frites will look darkbrown instead of golden as they should look, and they will be soggy and bwaaah, no dought..._

_- Choise of fat; best frites are still made in oxwhite (beef suet). They taste incredible. A more modern way is to use a good quality oil. I use a storebought combinationfat that contains mostly sunflower. Don't use the same fat for dozens of times! Always take small dark bits of frites out of the oil or it will turn the next batches somewhat bitter. I always sieve the oil after cooled._

_- Cut your frites by hand in square sticks at 8-12 mm. The unequal sizes of handcut frites gives a lot of different textures which contributes to a better mouthfeel..._

_- Just wash quickly but do NOT soak them! Dry the rinsed frites in a clean kitchentowel!!!! If not, the water will get under the oil and your fat may run over the fryer edge!_

_- Fry just a little frites at a time; 2 big handfuls is more than enough! I fill a very common deep plate to measure one batch, not too much heaped. That's also enough for 2 people._

_- First, poach in oil at 150°C. Don't let the frites get a color. You can hear the changing of the frying sound when they are ready. Lift the basket up, take a frite between index and thumb and squeeze. When they're more or less easy to squeeze through, they're done for the first time. This poaching can take up to 8 minutes or longer. Exact timing is nonsense, just do the squeeze test a few times to be sure._

_- Leave the frites to cool entirely; spread them on a large (oven)tray, they will cool very quickly. Time to make mayo, a must with frites._

_- Raise temperature to 180°C. Again don't overcrowd the fryer! Fry the frites in just a minute or so until golden, NOT brown. Again, you can simply hear from the changing of frying sound of the frites when they are ready._

_*Enjoy, and, greetings from the frites country par excellence!*_

_One last remark; make your own frozen frites portions. After poaching for the first time and cooling, portion and bag them and put in your freezer. Ready to use and 1000 times better than that commercial junk._


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## paxi (Oct 9, 2012)

ChrisBelgium said:


> I'm a Belgian and we are known world-wide for our fries. Some time ago I posted how we make them here;
> 
> http://www.cheftalk.com/t/66217/in-search-of-the-perfect-french-fry#post_354015
> 
> ...


Thanks for the help. With regards to the choice of Potatoes - can the choice of the potato eventually cause greasiness in the fries? And how do i determine the sugar content? And what other chemical factors should i consider? Pectin levels? Water content of potatoes etc etc?


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## chrisbelgium (Oct 2, 2010)

In Belgium, all supermarkets sell specific potatoes for making fries. They are the right variety and the right size potatoes. Most of these potatoes are the variety "Bintje". They can be found in many European countries. From what I read here on this forum, in the US, the best alternative seems to be the "Yukon" variety. I would stick to those if they are proven to deliver the best result. Why re-invent the wheel (which doesn't mean you cannot experiment with other types of potatoes)?

Greasy fries are mostly the result of too low temperature when frying for the second time. On the other hand, when you use potatoes with a high sugar content, your fries will get brown very quickly but they will never get crispy and... they will give the impression of being very greasy.

Here's the difference between low sugar content fries and the right kind;





  








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Fries with higher sugar content; too brown, not crisp enough





  








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Perfect crisp golden fries as they should be


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## chefbuba (Feb 17, 2010)

paxi said:


> Thanks a lot for the detailed recipe! @oldschool1982 . I'm trying this today and will let you know how it turns out to be.
> 
> Since almost all my recipes so far have involved double frying i think i need to focus on how well i de-grease my potatoes (get rid of the oil after the first try). Are there any tips if you're doing it on a large scale?


You need to let the baskets hang for a few minutes to drain after pulling from the oil, then give them a good shake before dumping. Your fries should not be greasy at this point.


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## chefbuba (Feb 17, 2010)

paxi said:


> How do you cool after the first fry? Can you freeze with this method after the first fry?
> 
> Also, how long do you initially soak the fries in the first step?


I dump out onto a sheet pan until cool, then store in a buss tub or 6" hotel pan in the cooler.

Why would you freeze?

30 min soak, agitate well, rinse, into a colander to drain before loading into the fryer baskets.

I also rinse with warm water, fries dry faster.


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## paxi (Oct 9, 2012)

Thank you so much for all the tips guys. It's all down to the potato. I tried fries from two places, reputedly serving the best fresh fries in the city and well .. they were way worse then McCains frozen fries. So i've given up on perfecting the fry till i'm able to source quality potatoes from a local source. Thank you all for your help!


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## philkel (Aug 22, 2014)

Starting potatoes in water is a great way to cook them. You can get a fantastic roast potato by boiling the spud first then finishing them off in the oven. It doesn't surprise me that the golden arches blanche their fries first before the final cook.


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## dave kinogie (Feb 16, 2013)

I prefer to crinkle cut my fries at home. Don't know what it is, but love them like that.

ChefBubba does them just as we did at pretty much all the restaurants I worked in over years past. Twice fry after cold water and drying is the best method imho.


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## westbigballin (Jun 3, 2014)

At my workplace we hand cut the fries, rinse em in a huge sink, then throw it into tubs and fill with water before throwing them in the walk-in.

We "blanch" them first at 300 degrees for 7 minutes. Oil temps drop to ~240 initially after dropping the fries but it hasnt really mattered. Put the fries on sheet trays and cool them in the walk-in before they get portioned.

For service, we fry them at 350 degrees for a little over a minute. Comes out better than McD's fries IMO


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## pitufina73 (Mar 26, 2012)

Have you guys ever tried frying fries with vegetable shortening or lard? 
When i make fries i always fried them in shortening or lard, they come out very crunchy and crispy,

Try it


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## oldschool1982 (Jun 27, 2006)

paxi said:


> Thanks a lot for the detailed recipe! @oldschool1982 . I'm trying this today and will let you know how it turns out to be.


Lost track of this topic....I also didn't get an email when you highlighted my username......sorry and I'm glad I might have helped? How did they turn out? I also saw you asked about grease? I never realized a problem since the baskets were allowed to drain for a few minutes before they were dumped. I did like @chefbuba mentioned....rest, shake well sand dump. You might need a couple extra sets to do this.

I see you've put things off over the type of potato you have access to? Did you try requesting a cured utility from your purveyor. Even a cured Idaho Russet 80ct or 60ct would work but the cost is different because your paying for the sizing. The next thing you could try is start inspecting them and refuse the shipment.....any green goes back, The company should do right by you. Otherwise, order them 3 weeks out and store them on a dunnage rack in dry storage. Heck, 5 Guy's here keeps 20 cases rotating through the dining room. Granted that's not for everyone but you can use it as a quality statement if you have that type of operation.

Utility potatoes are Idaho russets, just not the textbook potato shape which is what someone would expect out of a baking potato. Since you're cutting the utility, the odd shaped appearance doesn't affect things other than the smaller pieces that crisp up really nice.

@ChrisBelgium was absolutely correct about sugar and why I suggested a cured potato. Her suggestion of a Yukon's might be a good substitute.....never tried them but also never had an issue getting or curing my own potatoes The Beef suet or talo was available from Sysco and is a blend of Cottonseed and talo.The product really does make a difference in fries and chips so check with them to see if you can still order it.

Good luck and hope this helps.


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## Apprentichef (Oct 21, 2010)

chefbuba said:


> I use a mandolin, wide open.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


...WOW...really?!?! and you do 50lbs a day? I'm surprised you don't have a dedicated french fry cutter. Heck, I bought one for home I like them so much.





  








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paxi said:


> How do you cool after the first fry? Can you freeze with this method after the first fry?
> 
> Also, how long do you initially soak the fries in the first step?


Yeah you can chill and freeze after the initial blanch if you want to make your own frozen fries. Some people prefer that method and say it produces a better french fry.

To each their own. I freeze at home, we don't at work.


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## chefbuba (Feb 17, 2010)

I have one, still new in the box, found out after the fact that there was nowhere to mount it.
(I'm in a trailer) Doesn't take long with the mandolin.


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## chefedb (Apr 3, 2010)

Simplot changed the whole fry industry, there first blanch  is done with steam then chill,   then fry  saves a lot of oil  Many fries today are not cut from potatoes they are potato scraps chopped and formed into fries.  (no waste))


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